Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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After installing a modified 280 block with modified 280zx head & stage II cam in my 240Z, my AT modulator promptly blew out and started sucking ATF into the engine. Put a new modulator but it seems to have blown out as well. Maybe the the new engine is making too much vacuum for the flimsy modulators? Trans is 3N71B, stock 3-speed AT for 240Z, 280Z, and 280ZX, Maxima etc. AFAIK. Looked at Rock Auto, they have same (and some different) ones listed for the various models, from $11 to about $50. Two are listed for 280zx as "fully adjustable", one with a 910" diaphragm for non-turbo, and one with a .840 diaphragm for turbo. The same $11 non-adjustable Fram is listed…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Hi, Question for you guys. My distributor's vacuum advance vacuum pot's bladder has a leak and is no longer working because of it. I was able to figure out it was leaking by smoking the engine and seeing smoke coming out of the distributor cap (after capping that vacuum line off the engine ran way better). Since that part isn't sold separately anymore, is there any way to fix it or do I just need to buy a whole new distributor? -chase
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 20 replies
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I'm driving into a dead end, if someone could please help me solve a mechanical issue. I own a stock 1972 240Z, built 12/71 (second owner) for 23 years. I have always maintained it well, a very reliable and always an enjoy to drive. The rear diff have always been making clunking sounds for a few years, until now, a new metal rattling sound, almost sound like the spinning of the "Wheel Of Fortune" but more metallic. I've done some research and I figured I might as well replace the diff since I have a spare. I spent a whole day yesterday to remove and replaced the rear diff with new gear oil, also checked all the U-Joints, any obstruction like E-cable line and bushings all …
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 945 views
Just purchased my 72 and had every intention to rebuild the engine but with all the other items on the list of things to do I think I might focus my money elsewhere. Factory service manual says compression anywhere from 171-185. I did a dry/wet compression test last week on a cold engine and after reading a bit decided to do another compression test this weekend on a warm engine. Results are as follows: 6/22/19 1 2 3 4 5 6 COLD ENGINE Dry 165 150 170 165 150 …
Last reply by research monkey, -
- 4 followers
- 68 replies
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while messing with the spare engine on the test stand I noticed some odd behavior of the cooling system. very soon after starting way before the water temps rise, if I leave the rad cap off it will start puking water up, a lot of water (quart or more), then as the temp rises and I presume the thermostat opens (the water getting puked is cold) everything settles down (after adding water back) and the temps stabilize at 180f per the meat gauge, no more puking water running thru the rad. Next I drained off a little water and tried my napa head leak tester. This is the one that pulls air from inside the rad thru a mesh screen bubbling the blue chemical. It had a tinge of yell…
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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- 9 replies
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I have an odd leak that just appeared. My car is normally dry underneath so not sure exactly what it is but it’s coming from this area in the picture. I think possibly where the shift lever connects to. Any ideas what to look at first? There is no fluid where the drive shaft connects to the transmission but it’s just before that area in the circled area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 3 followers
- 27 replies
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I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 844 views
I have been looking for a diff clunk. I have put in a isolator bushing at the top of the diff nose and still hear the noise (you can see it in the video) Recently, I went under the car and found the drive shaft had some play at the diff end, not at the U-joint though. See the video. Where can this slop be from? Is this normal? The diff gear mesh? How can I fix this? Thank you. 20190611_180511.mp4
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 36 replies
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I wanted to remove the valve cover to get it polished, and to also have the valves adjusted. Should I have a mechanic do this, or is it easy enough for me to do myself? Thanks.
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
Engine pulleys 1 2 3
by tom231- 4 followers
- 27 replies
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Good day, Tom here again. In looking in the engine bay, I see the lower belt attached to the lower pulleys, ie...for the fan?, BUT there are some pulleys at the top of the engine bay and they do not have a belt on them. This is a dealer installed AC car, when new in 1970, are those pulleys somehow involved with the AC? The AC system, I see the refrigerant lines going into a small looking black canister on the passenger side. Not sure if that would be the condenser. It is pretty small, ie...5 or 6 inches long and around 4 or so inches round. Thanks for your help! Tom
Last reply by tom231, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 933 views
Question for you - I've had a '78 280z for about 3 years and never changed the engine bay/gas tank fuel filters. When I look at the post gas tank clear fuel filter it looks brand new so I assume the filter in the engine bay is also looking great internally. Should I bother changing these even if they look brand new on the inside? I know these are cheap but if I don't need to change something I'd prefer not to break out the wallet.
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
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Just a teaser for now without much explanation but this could get very interesting! Will do a proper write up as to why and what when I finish the work ... 1/8” increments ... Webcam pointing into carb mouth Nice view ... Timing light with rev counter fixed in field of view for analysis, need to improve lighting ... Let the fun begin!! Ah, no! Children’s activities stopped play at the crucial moment! [emoji22]
Last reply by AK260,
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