Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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1977 280Z that I picked up this past summer. The PO had a cam installed by Eddie Radatz of e.radatz motorsports in Georgia. I called him and he remembered the car and what work he had done but didn't have anything on the cam specs. Just wondering if anyone can help to identify the cam. Thanks
Last reply by chiefmd, -
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Hi guys, I have a 1978 280z that i recently picked up. It runs great and i’ve been enjoying it tons. Im glad to be a part of the community. When I start it up when cold the idle sits around 500, misses and lopes a bit. It doesnt smell rich at idle but as soon as I start driving it gets pretty rich smelling. So I dont think it is the cold start valve? Once it is warmed up the idle sits around 1100. It is set like this to keep out from dying when cold. It has no problem starting at all, just running after it is started. I know for a fact that the AFM and water temp sensor are good. I have cleaned out the air regulator and throttle body. That seemed to help …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Last reply by conedodger, -
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The instructions for installing the timing chain on the 280Z say there are 42 links between the timing marks on the sprockets. No matter how I counted I couldn't come up with 42 links between the marked links on the new timing chain I was installing. Depending on how I counted it was either 41 or 43 links between the marks. Finally, my mind was put at ease when I found this explanation in the Chilton manual. The number of ”links” refers to the pins. Now here is the kicker. I examined the old chain and the last person to work on it marked the chain where there were actually 42 links between the timing marks as the instructions call for. One mark was painted on…
Last reply by WattTheHeli, -
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Started last night. Split second misfiring while cruising. This happened weeks ago and gas treatment eliminated it it seems. Could you point me where to start looking? I seem to be getting old for this . Thanks 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by AK260, -
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I am sure its been covered but seems like I could not find the exact procedure. I removed the self locking retaining rings (chisel break them out they came) but I can't seem to press the u joint far enough to get the cap to extend more that about 1/8" at most, not enough to grab and pull the cap off freeing the U joint. I may end up welding on to the cap so I can pull it off. I seems the internal structure of the U joint prevent sufficient clearance to push the cap out any further.
Last reply by wheee!, -
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Hi guys, I pulled my valve cover off my 1977 280Z yesterday for the first time (bought the car this spring) and when I looked at the inside I had a bit of a nasty surprise. They have used some kind of sealer or glue along the side of the bevel which has hardened and is now breaking off. It has the consistency of burned caramel and I guess I will have to pray that the broken off pieces will not destroy my engine... I'm going to remove all that crap and I was wondering if I should put some new sealer along that edge or if I can just leave it clean. If I need to put new sealer there, what product should I use which will not fall apart or come loose after a few year…
Last reply by Reinier, -
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So a little background on my ignition system before I get into this post. I changed my OEM ignition system about 2 years ago and decided to go with the Mallory Unilite distributor (mechanical advance only), as well as an MSD 6AL system. Despite the many reports of the robustness of the Mallory electronic unit, I have never had an issue with mine, although I also installed the recommended "power supply filter" from Mallory as well. Despite that I always did carry a spare electronic unit. I also had to utilize Mallory's Active Tach adapter to get my OEM tach to work correctly over the RPM range. All in all I was pretty happy with this setup, and my car ran very well,…
Last reply by JohnnyWas, -
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I purchased a 1977 280z this past summer and doing a complete mechanical rebuild. I pulled the trans today to replace clutch and throw out bearing. I then remembered that the PO stated that he had the trans ungraded to a 5 speed (I believe from a ZX). My question is what clutch plate and bearing should I order? Or are all 280Z/280ZX 5 speed the same. Thanks for your help
Last reply by chiefmd, -
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1976 280z coupe, 5-speed late S-30 Transmission A few months back I had an issue where my Z wouldn't go into gear while running. After changing both the slave and master cylinders and having the problem continue, it was time to drop the trans. Turns out where the clutch fork meets the pivot ball had completely broken and wasn't allowing the clutch to fully disengage. I always get a bad case of the while-im-at-it's whenever I do anything, so I changed the pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and of course the shift fork. After reassembling, the slave is now over extending and ends up blowing out because it goes too far. …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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? any source for replacement 0.187 Tang drive tips for repair/mod of speedo cable? need one or more to build adapter for an angle drive am aware of, & have, the SW 82625 - but it is too short
Last reply by emoze, -
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I'm playing around with a new (for me) diagnostic oscilloscope and I think I'm pulling too many kV's on the secondary wires. One potential cause appears to be related to too much resistance somewhere. The plug and coil wires test out OK (they are NGK's). The plugs were just cleaned and gap checked. I started wondering if I need to set the gaps smaller than the 0.8 - 0.9 to decrease the kV before arcing. The oscilloscope traces are here if you are interested: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404459
Last reply by Jeff Berk,
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