Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Got a set of rebuilt carbs from paltech. Linkage is fine when car is off very linear. With car on it has the common stick right away making it impossible to just take off easy. Almost like vacuum is holding them shut while on.
Last reply by colinc, -
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I've had a slow leak for years at the engine/transmission area and hoped it was just an oil pan gasket. After replacing the gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro, it continued to leak near the same place. I pulled the transmission (quite fun by myself) and clutch/flywheel only to find that the rear crank seal was not the source. After cleaning it all and letting it sit overnight, I had a small amount of oil above the pan/gasket, but not a drop from the seal. It looks to have been replaced when the previous owner had the clutch done years ago. After wiping it clean again, I carefully tightened the 3 oil pan bolts just a bit and saw oil ooze out from these two areas: …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Hello all, I would be interested in feedback from the forum about how the timing marks are lining up on my 72 240. I found TDC for piston 1 and the pointer is aiming "below" the first mark, see pic. My understanding is the lowest/first mark on the crank should line up with the pointer when cylinder 1 is TDC and 0 degree advance. i have a stock set-up and considering upgrading to electornic ignition module pertronix II. the distributor looks to be advanced about 1/2 way looking at the lines on the body of the distributor, but if the pointer is accurate then could it actually be retarded ~8 degrees? thank you for any insights.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Eiji buttoning up the bottom end of my stroker 3.1.....he really pays attention to detail. Can't wait to dyno this new puppy!
Last reply by Patcon, -
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So I was going over the timing and valve clearance adjustments for my 72 240, hoping this weekend to get some grease time in and make the engine run a bit smoother than it is (great shape, but currently needs a serious tune up). I noticed the wild variations in timing based on the presence of emission controls - a 12 degree difference?!! - and that, naturally, reminded me that since it's a 72, even in California it's quite alright for me to tune the engine for best performance and remove the emissions control equipment as I see fit. The funny thing is, when I first got the car 5 years ago (my second Z after my first car, a 280, and my companion to my daily driver, a 92 30…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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Wanted to share a story related to the ignition system of my 5-speed converted '72 automatic 240z: Shortly after I purchased my car, I converted from automatic to 5 speed. Left the dual points distributor alone except for changing the points, condenser, and cap. Car ran ok, but I had to dial in a lot of timing advance to keep the engine from backfiring through the carbs when cold. Car ran seemingly fine all winter with an occasional misfire condition in warmer weather with warmer engine temp...never could figure out why. Fast forward many months and I decided it was time to get rid of the dual point distributor. So, I found a used single point distributor on Eba…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have a '83 280zx Turbo T5 transmission in my '72 240z. It currently has a non-metal flange seal that looks like the seal Beck Arnely sells. It is leaking and based on my research, the correct seal is the SKF 13958 with the metal flange. Before I order it, does the flange go on the outside of the transmission tail housing or inside? Does anyone have a picture of one installed? I posted a picture of the seal below from the net. Thanks!
Last reply by d9inger, -
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To address the wet plugs issue and to enjoy the car a little more. Mainly occassional driving and few autocrosses. I’m not well versed on the technicals. Work will be performed by a skilled friend. Plan is to overbore, use larger pistons, steel 280 valves, regrind a 280 camshaft into a stage II profile, rejet the Weber 40s to 42. I could use your suggestions. Baseline is my 260z motor with Weber40’s, headers. Want to keep the budget as low as possible but since I’m already diving into a rebuild I might as well hope for about 100hp increase. Am I dreaming? I’m hoping to recreate the adrenaline pumping I get from my now gone aircooled 911. Thanks 12/70 2.6 block E88 hea…
Last reply by wil84911, -
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My car burns what I think is too much oil, about 1Q every 500 or so miles. I notice some smoke when starting up but quickly clears up. I do a LOT of short trips, low speed stuff, which I have read may cause issues for an engine that likes to rev like the L series. There are no external leaks and no internal (crank case oil looks good, no milky looking stuff at all, no oil film in rad). I did replace the PCV valve on the assumption that if it was clogged crankcase pressure could rise and cause problems. The compression looks good (160-165 on all with a cold engine) but I know that only means the compression rings are ok and could still be stuck or broken oil control rings.…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Delivered my 240Z head at the workshop this morning, before installing the new manifold and triples, I decided that it would be better to have it cleaned, and checked before it all went back together again... That made me thinking.... What about a mild cam instead of the standard? What would it take, besides the cam itself, rockers and lash pads? any thoughts, any one?
Last reply by fairladyz432, -
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I have a 2 inch pipe looking for a nice deep growl for exhaust. Any recommendations? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by joe newsom, -
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As the title says I have my L24 bored 1mm over and pistons. I also have rebuilt N42 with new valves. Anyone tried this combination with a N42 head? Any valve clearance problem found?
Last reply by madkaw,
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