Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hello everyone, I´m Marl, 20 years old, and I´m about to buy a Nissan Datsun 240z 1972 manual in 2 weeks. Before you continue with reading I want you to know, that my english isn´t the best. You might see some incorrect words and tense. I apologize. But, let´s keep going, because of course I want to ask you something: I was thinking about to drill the engine "wider". The L24 has a bore/stroke ratio of 83 x 73.7 mm and I wanted to ask, if someone of you ever drilled the engine block over 83 mm? If you did, what experiences do you get? If you did, how far can you go? (84?85?) And of course you need to know what I exactly want to build in my garage. I want to …
Last reply by Marl, -
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- 6 followers
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Does anybody make an engine cradle for the Z engine? I have an L28 that I am going to need to move to a new house in a few weeks. I have it on an engine stand right now, but I figured that is not a good way to move it. Thanks for any suggestions you might have. Marty
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 6 followers
- 24 replies
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I have run into a problem with my conversion. I have a 1971 240z that I am trying to put a 75 280z 5 speed into. The problem is that the shifter comes up very short in the tunnel. I am working with a member to bend a shifter so that minimal cuts have to be made on sheet metal and the console. I am curious if there is a option for a longer transmission and if that would fix the short fall? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by David F, -
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I've finally started to rebuild a spare L28E N42block from a parts car I had. It had not run in a veery long time. I've torn it all down and saw nothing alarming as to the condition of the internals. Crank looked good and no scoring in the cylinder walls. I've dropped off the crank to check for straightness and once ok'ed I'll have it polished and then hone and deck the block. If the original pistons check out normal I'll probably re-use those. My plan is to keep it stock, no cams or overbore, however I am considering balancing the crank and pistons/rods. The final use will be for my 77' on down the road to replace the original engine that's got who knows how many…
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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I’m seriously considering a disk brake conversion for my ‘72 240z, what are some good kits that are relatively cheap and what problems will I encounter doing this conversion, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 6 followers
- 25 replies
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I just rebuilt one of the two SU''s on my '74 260z and really like how it looks after blasting the body with glass beads. I'd like to do the same with the intake manifold but wanted to get some input on how much trouble I''m asking for in removing the intake (i.e. what is the likelihood that I'm going to break something like a stud in removing it). A local free access machine shop has a couple of blast cabinets available so it won't cost me anything. Note for those in NE Ohio, look up Sears ThinkBox at Case if you need to use machine shop tools, welders, etc. The only cost is materials and parking. Jeff
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
- 2 followers
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I have a tapping sound that seems to originate from the valve train. Used a big screwdriver handle to my ear and it was coming from somewhere in the middle portion of the valve cover. I adjusted my valves three times and the tapping persisted. There is a thread on hybridz about a valve train tapping and several people found that the portion of their rocker that contacted the lash pad was contacting the side of the lash pad and not the middle. I thought I was in the same situation so I removed all my rocker arms. This is what I found: Rocker #8 has a groove that is huge. Also the lash pad for #8 has lopsided wear. I posted a thread a few days ago abou…
Last reply by gundee, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 950 views
Any idea on how to remove the brake wheel cylinders, mine need to be replaced and I cannot figure it out. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 7 followers
- 14 replies
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I bought a new master cylinder for the clutch and I am trying to bleed the system but it seems like the master isn’t building up pressure at all. Any advice on bleeding the system I feel like there’s a fair amount of air in the line. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 4 followers
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Hi: I found my cam tower bolts on the passenger (higher) side loose. I torqued them to 13 ft lbs. My question is what about the driver side cam tower bolts that share the same space as the head stud bolts? I checked and they are tightened very tight. Are the driver side anchoring in the engine block or the head? Should I loosen them and retorque to 11-13 ft lb? Thanks. Howard ’74 260z
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
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changing out leaking side seal in R-200. Tim ken bearing from z car depot quite a bit thinner. Will it work or should I go OEM. Old seal on left. Thanks
Last reply by Obie 280Z, -
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Anyone know if there is a source to buy this line? I saw it at a car show and was not able to ask the owner if he made it or bought it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by zKars,
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