Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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EDIT: This is reference, but I don't believe it's the clutch. More likely a fuel pressure or delivery issue. Maybe in the carbs as well. Everything replaced and carbs rebuilt, so its pretty surprising to have this kind of issue. Need to get a fuel pressure tester... --------------------------------- Something strange happened today that was new. After driving to work in the morning and things feeling pretty normal. It wasn't an aggressive drive at all. On the way home there was a lack of power transfer at certain RPMs/torque range. I first noticed it going up a hill, the car seemed to be struggling to have the power to push up it. It originally felt like it w…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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There is a young guy in the next town over from me and he has started the restoration of a 1971 240Z, the car came with an L28 in it with this pulley, I've never seen one like it but I have limited knowledge of the 280z series. It is the disk on the back I have never seen before.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey everyone, when I bought my 240Z it came with a damaged R200 LSD 4.11. I'm running on a spare 3.90 now, but I recently decided to repair the 4.11. This has turned into a major headache as I can't seem to find parts diagram for the 4.11, much less the parts. It looks like it was recently overhauled, too. The gears look new, the cluch packs look pretty good, but the bearings are shot and there are some missing washers on the pinion gears (I think this is what they're called...they're 4 gears that transfer the torque to the axles). So...no wonder it rattled and clunked and made very bad noises. Does anyone know about this rear end? The case says, "38311 P9000". The clos…
Last reply by Gurmal, -
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Hi, Drop the differential last night and notice the part number on top which is: 38311 N3100 Been searching around to found out from which model it is and can't find nothing. Help would be appreciated since I wan't to change a few seal and gasket. Thanks as usual, Joce
Last reply by Gurmal, -
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I just installed the pertronix ingnition kit and blaster coil 3ohm. I didnt remove the distributor off the engine so the timing is the same. The car ran fine before, carbs were tuned, cap rotor, wires, plugs all good. The car seems to start up real well and idle good. Seems to have more power. Two issues tho. The tac now seems to drop at around 3k to zero and back up when im giving it alot of gas The car had a backfire through one of the carbs at 4krpm or so. I didnt have any of these issues before the installation, Im just wondering if someone can point me into the right direction to see what I can do. Thanks!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Are these OEM or aftermarket rockers from the markings?
Last reply by gundee, -
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This thread from the 510 Realm about lubrication problems and failures with aftermarket CV conversions relates to the Z as well -- FYI or for additional input: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&p=261930&sid=c5dd284c5161441c2d4b9bc3307dbe02#p261930
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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A little backstory… I’m servicing the R-200 rear axles on my ’77 280Z that I installed in the late ‘80s when the orig. pair started to seem a bit dodgey. I don’t remember where I got them, but they don’t match exactly in casting/markings and hardware. However, they both are for the same application, with the same press-in U-joints, and have worked well since the original install. Same internal details in every way save one: the Factory-looking one had the requisite 12 nylon ball spacers, while the different-looking one had but 8. Su-prise, su-prise. So, here I am, hoping that someone out there just might have 4 of the spacers that they could let go of. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello, I have a 78 280z and i knew the diff and half shaft were not stock. By looking at pictures i think its an R200 300zx Turbo LSD diff. My problem is not as much identifying the diff rather than what is going on with my half shafts. The axle stub that goes into the diff does not seem to be retained inside the diff at all. I can move the axle stub in and out of the diff. I cant pull it completely out since its connected to the wheels, but i dont think they are supposed to do that. They also look like they are very close to the inner pivot point of the lower suspension arm and i am afraid with the axle stub being so loosely in the diff that it w…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So we pulled one out of my car and bought the other one and now we can't remember What is what due to being stored for years. Any help would be appreciated thanks. Sent from my LG-H900 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Finally getting back to getting my engine back together. I noticed some decent groves on the damper/pulley, and wondering if I should use a Speedi-Sleeve. My trusty Tom Monroe engine book doesn't mention anything about them. And if they are used, the seal is riding on a bigger OD which may fail the seal sooner. Or should I try to place it in the cover at a depth where it avoids the grooves, like I did with the rear seal. Attached is a pic, what do you think? Also, the factory color for the water pump pulley is black, right? Thanks, Ken Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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My 240z has been running rich for a while. The replacement cylinder head was sparkly new-looking when installed 6 or 7 years ago. Thinking about running a spray can of Seafoam through the SU's to clean up the top end. Read some threads on this site about it but they don't mention using the spray type. Seafoam site recommends using spray type except for professional applications. I guess I'd do it by spraying into one carb about 15 seconds and switching to the other one for 15 seconds etc until the can is empty. Not sure I want to do this but read mostly good reviews of it.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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