Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Hello everyone. I would just like to say thanks for even looking at this post. This is my first post and I'm not even sure if it's going to the right place haha. But I would appreciate some feedback if you're reading this, thank you. So I've been workin on this car for about 4 years now. I know the insides and outs of the motor since I've built it. But I'm running into this insane cooling issue. This is a Datsun 280z 1978, late 77. Running a stock bottom block l28. With an N47 top end from an 83 280zxturbo. It is NA right now. With some performance mods. Recent ac delete and upgraded suspension. Once I was finished putting in suspension. I've done a complet…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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mine is leaking so i need to know the plug size so i can get a new gasket thanks all sb
Last reply by zKars, -
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Last time after I cleaned the spark plugs there was a noise when the engine started, coming from the head at hole 6. Wondered if something bent in the head from revving it up. Didn't drive for a few days. Today put a new plug in #6. The old plug tested more or less OK, ground side to threads intermittent or bad contact with meter. Did some tune, started the engine, it sounded fine, no noise at #6. What happened ? I guess the sound was a spark jumping but I couldn't see it and the plug looks OK on the outside. It was torqued to spec.
Last reply by kutukutu1, -
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Looking for some advice on installing the rear main seal. I know Nissan has a special tool listed in the service manual. What is the best way if any, to install the RMS without this tool? Thanks
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Howdy all, First off wanted to say I've been researching vapor lock and I'm not 100% that's my issue. 1. Car starts fine, idles fine if not a bit lumpy. 2. After the car warms to operating temp, head on out for a drive. Idle: 600-800rpm when warm after first start of the day. 3. After 5 - 10 minutes of driving, the car will start to become unresponsive to throttle to the point at which if I give it any throttle at all and take it out of gear, it'll stall out completely, and I have to either jam it back down into gear if I'm going fast enough or just coast over to the side of the road. 4. Once on the side of the road, however, it fires right back up. Oddly, once it start…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello all! Is there anyplace in the Sacramento area that set up 240Z head lash pads? I will build everything but dont have the equipment to check or do the lash pads. Thanks ! polecat
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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Higuys, I did this about 10 years ago, but today I put the timing light on, and with static timing, it was about 40 degrees! I don't remember everything you needed to do to find the timing notch on the balancer/pulley, but this is what I thought you needed to do: Take out all the spark plugs, and the engine should turn easily? For some reason mine didn't. I used a socket on the alternator bolt, and the pulley turned without moving the belt- there was a LOT of resistance. Should I engage neutral on the transmission? Did I forget something? I was considering loosening the belts, but I don't think I did that last time. Please remind me of the proc…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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I've got an E31 head on a stock L24 block. The head probably has 15K miles since a valve job done by Motorsport Auto in the early 90's. I sent it the head to Motorsport because I wanted a "Z guy" to do the work properly. Reason I'm posting is I'm putting a new chain and like the last time, the chain is really loose. I remember with my E88 head it was always a serious effort to get to cam chain on mark "1". With this head, I go straight to "3" and move the passenger side chain guide to the inner more tight position. Is this an E31 thing or a sign of an improperly shimmed cam tower?? The towers have one shim on them. Stock valves which don't hit the pistons. I …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I've done and read a good dozen different ways to get the fill plug loose including heat, a 10 pound hammer, a cheater bar and my favorite, using a jack with a small cup (Sears sells them for $100) and putting the other end of the wrench in the cup and jacking it up while you have the car on stands. Today I didn't have the small jack but I did have a ratchet strap that I wrapped around the engine crossmember and the wrench. A literal piece of cake.
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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I have seen many thread about vapour lock but nothing about what it actually is or how it is caused. Is it only found on Smog equipt or all 70-78Z's Can someone who knows about this in detail enlighten us all?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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1981 280zx transmission Delivered with 90 day warranty. $795.00 thoughts please!!!!!! Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
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Replacing my rear transmission seal (it's a five speed-model FS5W71B. Seal is from Motorsport Seal Part Number 32136-U0100). Old seal disintegrated upon removal. Wondering if the inner metal ring (or band) should be removed as well (possible this is part of the old seal)? (see red arrow in pic around 2 0'clock). Thanks you!
Last reply by GV Z Car,
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