Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I drove the car earlier today and noticed the oil under the car. I always thought it as the crush washer from the oil plan not being replaced, but I noticed gear oil pooling where the bell housing and dust over meets. I have noticed once the car is warm, it is difficult to shift into first gear at times, and it has grinded in 3 occasions. any ideas what I would need to replace, and if this is the reason for the difficulty getting into first?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I pulled my valve cover to adjust my valves and discovered that my oil spray bar was in bad shape. The distribution blocks were bent a little and weren't sealing against the cam journals and the short tubes at front and rear were no longer parallel to the cam. Did a little searching and discovered that this is a very common problem. Clogged, leaking, bent, falling apart. After studying the factory design, I believe it is a misapplication of materials. The steel tubes are "soldered" into the aluminum distribution blocks at one end, and are brazed to the steel center mounting bracket at the middle. Not only does solder not stick to aluminum in the first place, but the ther…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Cody is trying to talk me into building a motor for "Lily". I have an engine in another Z that might be good. We will pull that drive train and see if that motor will run. That might end up as plan B. I have two different 280zx turbo motors in my shop and I also have a V07 crank laying around. I had thought I would buy a stroker kit from Rebello minus the crank and build up a 3.0L motor with some Z therapy carbs for now, but I could go with one of the turbo motors. Please chime in with your thoughts. Pros & Cons Thanks, C
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hi I want to go back to original rear diff. That include to instal a R180 instead of my R200. I bought the car with the R200. I´ve found an R180 but the gear ratio says 3.545(3911) and comes from a Automatic. I have a 5 speed transmission so will that make problems for me? My car is a 240Z, 1973. I´m not racing just cruising.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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As I return my May 1970 240Z back to original specification I'm in need of a flat mustache bar to fit a R180 diff. The car came to me with a R200 diff, so that is being replaced with a R180. I have 2 curved later mustache bars if anyone is interested in a swap. Roo
Last reply by SpeedRoo, -
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My 1972 (11/71) 240Z is in the garage for engine work. The shifter has been in the neutral position all that time. Now that it's ready to be test driven we find that the shifter is hung up and will not engage first or second gear but only third and fourth. On an important side note, the car was two miles inland during hurricane Ian and flood water came up about 18 inches on the sides of the car. Don't know whether water may have found a way in. Thoughts please.
Last reply by Yarb, -
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Hey there! I have been getting some great tips from you guys. I own a 1971 240z. Original l24 with a 5 speed installed by prior owner. The other day, I was replacing leaking master and slave clutch cylinders and I noticed the following stamped on one side of the transmission housing: L5 "NMCA" and "#3" on the other side. Does anyone know what kind of 5 speed this is and gear ratios? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Looking for an early 4 speed transmission cross member for my May 70 03802 240Z. I have a 1972 cross member but it's the wrong one for the early 240Z I have. Happy to swap my 1972 mount for an early one if anyone is interested. Thanks, Roo
Last reply by SpeedRoo, -
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I believe there is only a few minutes running time on an engine I'm tearing down at the moment. This is the #1 cylinder and is the worst one, there is a minor amount on a couple of others. Also, the rod bearing shells.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I have an FS5W71B of unknown history that goes into second and third just fine except for a frequent grind. I understand it’s a fairly common problem and I’m pretty certain it not a clutch release issue because I don’t have a problem getting it into reverse. May need new synchros, but I read in a really old post on another forum that putting stronger spread springs behind the shifting inserts helped avoid that problem. The idea was that it pushed the synchros into the cones with more force. Any experience with that? Dennis
Last reply by swflaz, -
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My car doesn't have a hose for the wintertime connection from cleaner to manifold. I don't really need it in Sacramento, but do I want to put it on there anyway? I don't think I ever see one on most if not all of the cars that get a proper restoration on BAT, but it just feels weird to have that exhaust manifold going nowhere? A quick search here really didn't provide much other than a small thread from 05. If I do need it, is it really this from Z Car Depot as the original looking hose?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey guys, I have an L28 Engine, N42 block and N47 head. My goal was to rebuild the engine and make it a reliable engine that can last a long time. I want to avoid having to pull the engine anytime soon. Power is not my biggest concern however I would like to be above the stock power numbers minimum with this rebuild since it's going to gain a little weight with aftermarket AC. For the most part I will be sticking to the stock efi for smog reasons and would like whatever I do internally to not mess with my ability to pass smog. I have almost all refurbished or new parts for the intake manifold too which should be a big help. The condition of the block is the cylinder …
Last reply by Ownallday,
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