Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Good morning everyone, and happy holidays! For Christmas, I was thinking I'd replace the plugs on my Z as it's been a few years, but I'm not sure where to begin getting the right one. I've read the forums here, and it looks like the best bet would be either the BPR6ES-11, BPR5ES-11, or BR6ES. The issue is that my car isn't stock, and I went through the NKG website and looked at every Z from 1970 through 1985 to get a feel for what they recommend. (I attached the PDF from the site here to help make sense of what the letters mean.) My engine is: F54 engine block, 3mm overbore; 83mm stroke, KA24E shaved flat-topped pistons, 3.098 liters (standard 3.1 kit) P90 head, p…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Dyno results (flywheel) for an L28 prepared for rallying - plenty of torque for street driving too. some weights and spring rates too. Combined DYNO, Weights, Spring, Damper files.pdf
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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Just tuned both of my recently remanufactured SU Carbs and filled them up with ATM fluid. THe car drives great at high speed, however in 1st and 2nd gear when releasing the clutch pedal and accelerating slow, not hard! Imagine getting in a traffic jam or passing a Street bump, the car presents a shaking back and forth motion. Could this be a distributor problem?? Bad Timing or Could the distributor need some inner cleaning with WD-40 or Contact Cleaner?? I have a recently installed Pertronix Ingitor and coil which is delivering the correct spark!!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Is valvoline vr1 20w-50w a good choise? It for a weekend driven car, not a race car.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi Does anyone know if this E88 head is an early version or a later? Im a bit worried about the cr because it has been shaved 0.40 (1mm) and im putting 0.40 over flattops in the N42 block now(had dished pistons before).
Last reply by moelk, -
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I dropped off my E31 last week. I had told Dave that among the receipts was a receipt from BC Gerolomy. But the receipt was vague and I couldn't tell what all had been done. Given my time, or lack there of, I had the head removed by my son-in-law and he brought it down to Rebello. I had not seen it off the motor. Dave says big valves, port work, conservative cam. Dave will be putting a cam more appropriate to a 3.0 stroker motor with Megasquirt Pro. Previous owner just saved me a couple grand in Rebello head work! Plus it's BC Gerolomy! That's some old school stuff right there!
Last reply by conedodger, -
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4 yrs ago I pulled the original 2.4l engine, filled it with oil and tucked into the corner of the shop thinking it would never be started again. Well, it's back in it's numbers matching car and I'm getting close to start up and I thought I would check with you guys on a few things before I start cranking. The compression was good when I put it away so last fall I got it on the engine stand, cleaned and painted it, all new seals and gaskets, the head was skimmed. So everything is pretty and lubed, the SU's were rebuilt by ZTherapy, a new Pertronix unit was installed in the original distributor that I gave a bit of an overhaul to, all hoses are new and tight. The e…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I didn't know whether to put this in the Body & Paint section or Engine section. A few months ago I picked up a 2400 valve cover that is in very condition. Years ago the previous owner had cleaned and wet sanded it to smooth it out. I am wanting to get it back to original as possible but I am having a hard time finding what an original really looks like. Were they painted grayish silver from the factory? Did they have a smooth finish or cast finish? Based on what t looks like now should I just leave it as is? Any details or pictures you guys have are greatly appreciated. Below is what it currently looks like next to the series-1 air cleaner I plan on restoring…
Last reply by oemz, -
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I finally got my block back form the machinist. It's painted, core plugs installed and ready to go back together. Having never done any work like this before, i'm having an issues installing the main bearing caps. The How to book's don't give a great description on how this is done and I am afraid of doing damage using any sort of force. The tolerances seem very tight. The how to book's recommend first filing any burrs on the edges of the caps (I've yet to do so). I've tried lightly tapping them in place with a rubber mallet. Should I place some old rod bolts in, to line the caps up, then tap? Freeze the caps? Should they be oiled first? If…
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
I have searched the forums and I must be an idiot because I cant find a thread answering my questions. 1) What are the 5 Speed PART NUMBERS that fit a 1972 240Z 2) Where are part numbers located on the transmission? 3) What is the most current information? 4) Will 300zx 5 Speed fit?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Just replaced my side walled mounted solid white fuel filter with a clear one. The fuel level in the filter is only about half way up. Car runs fine, starts easily, accelerates ok (no popping in the exhaust-knock on wood). Is this normal? With the original solid filter one doesn't know what the level is. New rubber feed/return lines from tank to solid fuel lines. Solid connections on filter hoses with screw clamps. No cracks or leaks from filter to pump. Just an air gap in filter itself. Any thoughts? Andy
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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Searching for an L28 - square port - mild steel - 3 into 2 header with 1 3/4" Primary Tubes Can find 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 .... And Japanese unobtainium... Can anyone suggest a manufacturer currently producing them? I thought ATS/Stahl was still making them but they say no -Can anyone say where there jigs went to? All help will be appreciated
Last reply by racer47201,
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