Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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I need to build a motor for Memphis and don't want to do the stoker yet. I have a few blocks that could be over bored. I recall some mention in the past about chevy pistons that work with over bores? Anyone know of possible solutions? Cast hypereutectic pistons are fine for this one.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Anyone know of this mod and its success/risk? It is needed to do the 88mm VW piston upgrade.
Last reply by Careless, -
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Does anyone have any photos of the original look of the engine once painted? Anything would help. Trying to cover up this Ford Blue that's on the engine now. Mainly concerned about which brackets get painted, Freeze plugs, covers, overspray, etc. I may or may not try to recreate the factory overspray look, but I'm more interested in the other details. What's cad, what's not. etc. I don't really need an entire rundown, but a pictoral of someone who's done a true-to-stock engine refinishing project would be helpful. I've discussed some parts with Al from California Datsun, but then there are some items I know are original paint on the 01/70... but he had told me they were…
Last reply by Careless, -
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Hello everyone, Is it at all possible to remove the Timing cover without having to remove the head. Perhaps just the front two bolts on the head just need to be removed, along with the oil pan, and then just pop it off or something? I don't like the silver paint on the timing cover, as I know it yellows over time, so I want to have it vapour blasted to bring it back to the OE look. I'm just worried that it will pull the front of the graphite head gasket down and cause it to split or leak or something worse. If it's a huge deal, I'll leave it, but I seriously hate this silver paint on everything. Looking for advice on removal if there are any tips!
Last reply by Careless, -
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Piston Mfgr: Silvolite L4-119 Application: Isuzu 82-85 G200Z (Chev S15 LR-1) Flat Piston 88mm (87+1mm over) 22mm Wrist Pin 36.52mm Compression height Will work nicely (great squish) with stock L28 rod, LD28 crank, and stock Felpro HG. Gives 3.03 litre @ 9.75CR
Last reply by Patcon, -
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My 73 240Z has a funky looking water line from the rear intake to the right side of the block. I figured the short hose would eventually blow, and it did tonight. And I'm sure the metal tube that wraps around the back of the motor isn't the original style. I think mine is copper, and that can't be right. I'd like to replace all hoses and tubing with the correct 73 pieces. It looks like thezstore's part# 16-8026 (Manifold Heater Hose, Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, 73 240Z) is not available. Does anyone else sell this tube? Or a complete kit to replace everything? Edit: Or remove the intake cooling altogether since it's probably useless in my area. Th…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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- 13 replies
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I have a pretty good coolant leak from the freeze plug closest to the oil dipstick. This will be the first time I've tackled a freeze plug so I have a couple of quick questions. First, I'm planning on draining the rad and then the block, but I've heard its difficult to remove the engine coolant drain plug. To access the plug I'm going to have to remove the passnager side heater lines and pipe that are in the way as well. Do I have to drain the block via the engine drain plug or would it be easier to just be ready to catch the fluid as I remove the heater lines and the freeze plug itself? Second, looking at the system it looks to me that the high level of the rad i…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Putting my engine back together after an overhaul and finally turned my attention to the oil pan. I found lots of RTV on the pan and after cleaning it became very clear that someone over torqued the bolts warping the pan. Tom Monroe says to place the pan face down on a flat surface and to use a hammer and a large punch to flatten the re-enforcing beads. This being an early pan, it has no doubler plates, but rather a raised boss about 8mm wide and enlarging to a circle around the bolt holes. Most is not all of the distortion is dimpling around the bolt holes. Does anyone have a better technique for removing the dimples? The only reasonable flat, hard surface I have …
Last reply by Careless, -
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Picked up a Koyo aluminum radiator for my S30. Got down to installation and ran into a problem - the fan makes contact with the passenger side of the radiator (the cooling tank portion of the rad - see attached picture). After unleashing a few f-bombs, got down to trying to figure this out. Upon closer inspection it looks like the PO had installed a 8 fin fan from a 260z and it looks like the clearance between the fan and radiator are impacted by this (I hope - it appears the 260z fan extends forward further than the stock 240z fan). I've gone ahead and ordered a new fan in hopes that this solves my problem however, unless I'm missing something it looks like Koyo has made…
Last reply by tehmbrick, -
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Car has about 180-200 miles on it after an engine swap, took it out tonight for a spin, at a stop light while accelerating I heard the belt start to squeal. I figured, "just need to tighten it" but it kept squealing and another noise which I assumed was the belt rubbing on something happened because I started to smell burnt rubber. This went on for about 20-30 seconds or so then stopped. Next light, squeal when launching plus what seems like potential grinding which dies out at about 15 mph, no squeal when accelerating at speed. Brought it home, won't squeal just revving in the driveway but it looks like the belt is slightly misalligned to the rear at the alternator. …
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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Alright so since the last I posted up here, I blew the L26, road tripped 5 hours to pick up an L28 load it into the lidless trunk of an oldsmobile and drive it back. Then I stripped it down did several new gaskets, and painted it. Threw it in the Z with DGVs and after a month of fighting with them, bought a rebuilt set of round tops, ups broke those , so after a huge debacle with them repaired them and installed them. It ran awesome but kept dying randomly, seemingly because of a gas tank issue. Dropped it had it hot tanked again, and sealed it with red kote. I proceeded to put about 400 miles of awesome daily fun on the odometer in a space of about 2 and half weeks . Ble…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
early oil pan 1 2
by 240dkw- 15 replies
- 2.6k views
I have been spending the last week or so under the car scraping the rest of the undercoating off and have noticed a couple of things. First it looks like the car has a early reinforced oil pan, the engine is the original one and a number of L24-9873. I do not have any of the history of the car so I guess that the oil pan was replaced with this early one at some time. Because of how much later it is than the dates in this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=278322&postcount=28 As well, because this car is a mid 1970 Canadian car and does not have the extra vent hose to the gas tanks here is a photo of the support tab that would have been for the…
Last reply by Patcon,
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