Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I'm having trouble getting my timing marks lined up. Recent rebuild of my 71 240, original distributor, I got #1 cylinder up on TDC, made a mark on the crank pulley at the 0 mark on the timing indicator on the engine. When I run it and check it with the timing light I have to remove the hold down bolt on the distributor to get the timing to line up at 5 degrees BTDC. The indication is that it is WAY retarded (off the scale) Here's my question: Since the indication is so far off could the distributor/oil pump shaft be off a tooth? If so how do I fix it? I know the shaft comes out the bottom of the timing chain cover, can I drop the oil pump, drop the shaft, turn it a t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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All of the lobes on my cam are perfect and smooth except for the exhaust lobe on the #5 cylinder. I have had this engine for about 5,000 miles now and I don't think this has gotten any worse but not completely sure. When I drag the edge of a razor blade over the lobe I can feel the roughness but still not sure if it is gouged into the cam or transfer from the rocker on top of the lobe. What do you guys think? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I'm on about mile # 30,000 of my old 1978 stock 280Z engine and have never used a zinc additive or special oil on this engine. Just common oils, like Quaker State and Pennzoil 10-40W. I think that my engine has about 150,000 miles on it. No problems or signs of excessive wear. If you have the time, please post some details on how many miles are on your engine, how many miles you've driven it since oils changed, and if you've had any cam shaft wear. Just trying to collect more real data on the zinc issue. Maybe I should be running Rotella.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I've got a new timing light with the advance feature. From what I've read I'm thinking that if I dial in the advance such as 10 degrees, the pulley mark should line up on 0. Is that right? With the advance feature you don't use the 5 degree increments, just the 0 mark. Right??? Thanks for any replies, Cliff
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Almost everything is going good on my first 12 miles! Other than small issues my total rebuild of everything and anything mechanical is going great! When I decelerate in third gear it pops into neutral, I can hold it in 3rd with slight pressure, Suggestions? Thanks in advance
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
- 15 replies
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Hi! I have a nasty vibration in my 1970 240z when driving in highway speeds. While going over everything in the drivetrain I noticed some play in the transmission end of the driveshaft. Is this normal or should there be no play at all? Here's a video I shot today: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLmEMtkO3M8 My driveshaft has been spliced and I am also wondering if it might be too short. Does it look like it should be further into the transmission when looking at the video? Thanks, Tomzern
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Do the numbers on the very top's flat spot mean anything like a VIN number? The higher the number, the newer the transmission? I'm taking two to my transmission friend for him to look inside and tell me which one to use so it's more of a curiosity thing to me. The highest number The other one 4spd far left, highest 5spd then lower number 5spd far right Thanks for any replies, Cliff
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Some pics of cleaning up a rocker. Here is what a "good" used rocker looks like. It has had a lot of quality time with the cam and polished to shine with smooth undulations in the surface. Not much surface for holding oil when so shiny like chrome. Here are the 3 best rockers out of a used set of 12. I refreshed the worst of the 3 by using a flat slab of marble and sand paper. I measured variance to be 0.001" across the surface's peak. The front (engine side) is where the drop off is. It was interesting that simply placing the rocker on the flat surface gave the results; so it seems the machining surfaces are parallel (see below) and registered off the bott…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Ok, I'll keep this short: I've inadvertently (and frustratingly...) ended up with a 78 with the stock transmission coupled with a 3.90. I was supposed to have the 82-83 transmission but that didn't happen. Anyway, I'll live with it for awhile (maybe do some rock crawlin') but I want to get the speedometer right. Will the white, 19 tooth pinion work? I've always been told that you pair the pinion with the differential and that the transmission doesn't matter. Just wanted to verify. thanks :-)
Last reply by Adam78, -
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- 953 views
Almost all my wipes are identical (thank you machine shop) a couple are a little worse but not much. Can I get by with this? I had Delta do the rockers and had Isky re-grind my cam for a stage II and they sent .175 lash pads, along with new springs and retainers.
Last reply by SledZ, -
- 3 replies
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There is an oval-shaped cam-inspection plate on the front of the head. I have two of them; one cheapo plating, and the other painted to match the block. Can anyone tell what finish is correct for a '71 240Z. Thanks
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Finally got a chance to tear down my Series I L24 with 186K miles for excessive oil consumption (300-400 miles/quart). All in all things looked remarkably good. Crank and rod bearing show wear in the expected places but the crank surfaces are within a 0.001" with not taper or feel-able grooving. Cylinder walls have little to no taper and are round to size within 0.001". Cylinders 1,2,5, and 6 are clean with some crosshatching visible. Cylinders 3 and 4 are smooth but show the artifacts in the attached photos. Since it is hard to get a finger nail or ball point pen at right angles to the surface, I felt the surface with a clay modeler's tool. Most of the a…
Last reply by madkaw,
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