Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 1.4k views
I need the following parts for my 240z but with Premium high quality standards: Urethane Bushing kit Steering Rack boots Crankcase gasket or ENgine overhaul gasket kit Rear Main seal / crankshaft Front and Rear transmission Seal Front cover gasket engine Rear differential cover seal Rear differential Seal Should i purchase these seals and bushings in Black Dragon or should i really invest on high end part supplier? if so which one carries all these parts.
Last reply by IncredibleMrZ, -
-
- 14 replies
- 8.7k views
So i'm ditching the fuel injection system for a triple carb setup when my motor gets back from Rebello. Its a 75 280Z. What all can I get rid of in the engine bay? I'm trying to keep as nice and clean as possible. Could I completely remove the drivers side harness? It seems to be mainly for the fuel injectors. -Matt
Last reply by HaZmatt, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 5.7k views
So I have set about the process of building the engine in my 1970 240z. This is my project car, no intention to ever sell the car, and want to have a fun, reliable build for weekend mountain road runs, as well as docile enough to be driven around town. The local engine builder and I have talked, and I will be getting the block work and head work done there. I so far have been building up a parts list, and so far have a new high volume oil pump, Cometic MLS headgasket, full gasket kit for the engine, timing kit, and arp head studs. Im bounding around the stage stage two cam from MSA, or isky (or are they the same anyway?), using the stock springs if they are still any go…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 follower
- 13 replies
- 2k views
I'm thinking about digging into my engine, but I will be moving soon and don't want to get into a sticky situation. Can anyone chime in on the time it takes to do the jobs listed below? I know times vary significantly between people and engine, but any estimates are appreciated. Engine is out of car on a stand with exhaust and intake manifolds removed. I want to know how long it may take to 1. remove the head and check it and the pistons/rings 2. re-ring the pistons 3. rebuild the head 4. refresh timing components 5. full rebuild. Thank you!
Last reply by gogriz91, -
- 1 follower
- 19 replies
- 3.7k views
Sorry if this has been covered already but I didn't have much luck with a search. I seem to remember posts elsewhere which stated the mainshaft nuts were NLA from Nissan. Is this true, and if so, is there another source for them? If not, can anyone provide a Nissasn p/n? My particular app will be for a F4W71B, I believe it threads the opposite of the later model trans, but in which direction is unknown.
Last reply by emoze, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 4.1k views
So after many long years I have upgraded to a L28ET in my 76 running MS3PRO. I am now in need of a clutch for my beast as stock will not hold up to the power. I have looked at after market clutchs and not really impressed with costs. What I did notice is the parts from the L@* are interchangeable with many other nissan engines. The KA, VG30, Z24, L20, SD22, SD25 all seem to have the same basics about them when it comes to the clutch with the size of the surface being different. From what I have read the D21 4x4 truck clutch can hold some HP also.. Well good news is I found a clutch set up that runs under 400 with 18lbs flywheel. setup is 35lbs total. This is a cu…
Last reply by 280~Master, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 2.5k views
I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
This morning i started the engine of my 240z and pull the choke to 2,500 RPM in order to warm it up for 3 minutes. Once warmed up i released it and check on the engine for any leaks. I discovered a very small leak on one of the ends of the fuel filter. Just a small leak and the filter is full. Could this be normal and i am in danger of causing a fire in the engine? Please advise how to solve this issue, i tried tightnening the screws that hold the hoses but it does not move any further. Thanks,
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 11 replies
- 2.3k views
Seems like I'm posting issues more then usual. I think my car's on a breaking streak after begin driven more in the last few months then she has in years. I swapped in my rebuilt N47 head onto my L24 to help my compression issues and after driving it about 3 months I've noticed after my last oil change a few weeks back that the center of the head is starting to seep antifreeze. The head was checked and seemed perfectly straight. The block as well, however the motor could have been overheated several time before, and had a blown head gasket when I got it early 2014 (which is why the E31 head isn't on it) so there is no telling. I had no seeping issues on the worn ou…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
I've researched alot. And it seems you can swap the buttons on the 720 diff to accept a bolt in stub axle. What do u think I'd the best approach. Should I just let the stub axles from my z float inside the diff. As a few have done that. Should I get the stubs machined to accept the snap ring. Should I swap the buttons. I don't have the proper tools to check backlash and pre load if I disassemble the diff. Thanks.
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Hey mates I've owned m Z since 2008, drive it pretty much everywhere - right now its my only car. Recently - for about three months or so - second gear is a pain to shift into when the car is warm. It doesn't grind but it takes some effort to actually get the transmission to shift into said gear. It only does this in second. The other issue it's begun recently is if I sit at a light with the clutch in - as say I'm trying to make a right - the clutch won't hold as in it will begin to engage into gear. I have to basically force it out of first - literally - redepress the clutch and then shift back into said gear. Hydraulics are newish - replaced them in 2011 (I keep rath…
Last reply by Pomorza, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
trying to figure out which speedo pinion i need to acquire for a 71B trans with a 9 tooth shaft gear i have a 3.9 axle, 14" (5-blade star) wheels and currently a white 19 tooth pinion - speedo error "too fast" is there a chart anywhere showing the pinion (cable) output rpm/1000 for the various tooth options with that 9-tooth drive gear? these pinion gears are common to a range of cars - 240z, 260z, 280zx (1970-1983). 510 (1968-1973). 200SX (from 07/81-07/83) pinions range from 16 Teeth Gear: 3.36 axle Ratio 17 Teeth Gear: 3.54 Ratio 18 Teeth Gear: 3.70 Ratio 19 Teeth Gear: 3.90 Ratio various cars had 13", 14" and 15" wheels - did all datsuns of the era…
Last reply by emoze,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.