Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Hello everyone, I'm still trying to figure out why I have a lack of power from idle(to 1400rpm or so). After digging into the manual a little further, i've found that my automatic drops the timing down to 0 when temperature is higher, and in cold climates it bumps it up to 10 degrees (Where idle on a manual car is). It says it does this for emmisions. I'm looking to bypass the 0 degree set of points, and only use the "advanced" set. If I bridge the temperature switch, will this not make the car "feel" like it is below 0c degrees (32f) in all conditions? My electrical wiring diagram knowledge is apparently not that great.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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I have an F54 87mm overbore block with some new 87mm dished pistons. I know that 1mm is .040" but the ring set that came with all this is .030" oversize. Is that what I need or should I get .040" oversize rings? Thanks for any help, Cliff
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello all, Spent the evening helping a buddy try to get his 72 240Z running better. The front carb was messed up and pumping fuel into the carb. We finally got the level set in it pretty good They carbs were recently rebuilt by a commercial shop that said they knew what they were doing. Not really sure about that. I know the f and r carbs have subtle differences and the rebuild kits do also. Ie the float needle and seat valve has different length stems coming out if them. One question I have- are the front and rear floats different? I am thinking the metal tab that turns off the fuel might have a different curvature to compensate for the needle difference. We only had…
Last reply by JR Ohio, -
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It hasn't been a very good week and the Z doesn't want to run right. I have actually been able to find time to work on it, which usually is a problem. But after hours of troubleshooting and working on the car I seem no closer to an answer.It's one of those troubleshooting nightmares that has caused me to walk away before I do something stupid----like give up Z-ing. Symptoms are erratic and only sometimes can I duplicate. I am scratching my head and loosing heart and motivation. I love my Z, but it hasn't been fun lately just working on it while we have had the best weather all year. I will try and describe my issues-though it will sound vague; I have been around the world…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I noticed that my clutch was starting to slip awhile back and it's been getting worse, well tonight on my way to work as I was merging onto the interstate, I shift into third at about 4k and it stayed right at 4k, then bounced up to about 4700, the car barely accelerating, let off the gas and the clutch grabs and it was a pita the rest of the way into work, but I was gentle and got to work and then back home again. This is wierd because I never really felt like it released all the way either now this. Also lately there has a ton of rattle going up hills under loads, like when you in the wrong gear for the speed your going. So I really don't if its the clutch itself, the p…
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
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Where can i purchase the original Camshaft for my 1972 Datsun 240z? My car has been upgraded with the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt with race jets / needle. I am having stalling problems and really want to go back to stock!! What parts will i need to purchase in total besides of the camshaft based on the above upgrades? Who sells them? I really prefer high quality parts and Genuine Nissan if available.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hello, Trying to install a stock cooling fan to replace the flex lite fan that was in the car when I bought it. Once I got the stock fan installed I noticed it is rubbing the A/C portion (3rd row) of the crankshaft pulley. It looks like this third row is actually an add on to the 2 row pulley that is on there. The manual says to use a puller. Just curious if it is the same process with an "add on" pulley? I'll try and post a picture later when I'm on my computer.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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- 5 replies
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Hey everyone, I'm looking for (and having trouble finding) side bearing shims for my renovated R200 LSD. I have new bearings, etc., but the backlash is WAY too tight so the shop needs to move the carrier over some. It seems that all the places they contact don't have the ones we need and it's been a month with the car in their shop. Their next best option is to make some, but that will get spendy. It's a guess, but the shop is estimating we need a .80 and a .96 shim. I've tried MSA (of course), and a few Z shops in CA, Nissan doesn't make them anymore... Any ideas?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Finally got around to compression testing my engine. Did the compression test manually (engine is out of car on stand). Squirted some gear oil in the spark plugs holes a few days ago. Here are the results: 1 - 125 > 90 2 - 132 > 90 3 - 10 > 30 > 125 (squirted oil in) 4 - 67 > 65 > 150 (squirted oil in) 5 - 215 6 - 210 The > sign just means I redid the test on that cylinder. Anyways, it doesn't look good. My friend says that the improvement after adding oil means it's likely the rings, pistons, or block and not the valves or head that has an issue. Makes sense to me. Car had sat 8 years when I got her, engine has been out another 3 years since then. I …
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 6 replies
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This forum has been very helpful to me in the past, and any advice with this situation would be appreciated. Here’s what I have. ’72 240Z, stock L28, 3 screw round top carbs. I finished rebuilding the carbs yesterday. After getting everything reinstalled, I turned on the ignition to check for leaks and they were there. Leaks from the banjo fuel fitting supply to the bowl and also some leaks around the float bowl top gasket. I tightened the 4 bowl top screws and the banjo fitting bolt, but they seem to still ooze fuel. Current plan – Take it back apart and put some Permatex non-hardening sealant & dressing (#85409) on the parts and reassemble. I’m pret…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Hello all, 1971 240z automatic. Stock. If you guys have been following my threads on this vehicle, I purchased it about 6 months ago in the great US of A, and imported it into Canada. I've spent the last 6 months completely refreshing the front end, and some of the back as well as replacing some of the maintenance items for the engine. This includes points, cap, rotor, plug wires, and adjusting the carbs as per Ztherapy. After this work, the vehicle was finally legally registered yesterday and i've logged about 150km or so since. Yesterday the car ran quite well. This morning was a different story. After sitting for a minute or two in the underground letting the …
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
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Looks like it's time to replace my clutch - it was a bit long in the tooth when I got the car, so I figured this would need done at some point, and I've smoked it a couple times doing childish stunts involving high rpms and bad smokey smells... It's currently functional, but engages at the tippety-top of the pedal throw and will slip at peak torque if I drive like a donkey. I'm hoping to limp along until I gather parts and do a swap on a weekend afternoon. I've read a few threads which give me the naive impression that it's not that tough a job, and I may even invest in a tranny adaptor for my floor jack to compensate for my shortcomings in the bicep department. My long…
Last reply by EuroDat,
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