Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 20 replies
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After pulling out my transmission and taking the case off I figured out why it kept popping out of 2nd, 4th and reverse. The problem is that the shifter would hit the back of the "socket" and not allow it to fully engage and pop out of gear. You can see where the mark is on the shifter where it hits and the distance the gear is from fully engaging over the synchro, (a long ways off). I took apart another transmission as a test and used two shifters and it did it to both of them so I would think this could happen to a lot of them and hopefully fix them without taking them out of the car and to a tranny shop for nothing. I thought I would be able to adjust the shift "t…
Last reply by Werup, -
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- 0 replies
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While looking for vacuum leaks which could be the main cause of the rough idling and stalling of my 240z i have decided to replace all of the fuel line and braided hoses in the engine compartment. I would like to buy high quality hoses. Does Black Dragon sell them? They do provide a good service. But i am looking for long lasting hoses. Which are the ones that are preformed and would need to be sourced overseas?
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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The fuel pump in my car is faulty it is just reaching 0.8 psi and 1.5 p.si at low rpm. I am planning on replacing it. This car has a L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam which makes this motor 79 mm stroke instead of the stock 73.7 mm stock bore is 83 mm for the L24 and the L26 motors. This block has been bored out 1 mm to compensate for wear and makes my motor a 2.627 liter motor. In view of the above i need a powerful and silent Electric Fuel Pump. I read the electric fuel pumps for Mazda RX7 are the ones recommended? Any other opinions?
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 13 replies
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Last few days I've been driving my 72' 240, and noticed a couple strange events. Observation #1) Normal oil pressure at speed, (2/3 to 3/4 on gage), but while sitting at a stop light, gage registers "zero" oil pressure. I blip the throttle up to maybe 15 RPM, and pressure bounces up to 1/3 or higher and stays there... No additional noise from valve train or anything else to indicate a loss or reduced lubrication. Oil level is fine and oil is clean. I searched the threads, and yes, I have a gold color sender. Thing is, it's never done this before... Observation #2) Everything's good, then temperature bumps-up from center of the gage to almost 3/4! This is i…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 20 replies
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So after several months of running the alumaseal through the cooling system of my 77 280 I still have a coolant leak between the block and head. I have contemplated re torquing the head bolts but am a little nervous. The last time I had the head off was in 1997 or there abouts. So its been awhile. Has anyone attempted this and what were the results? I was thinking of just breaking them loose (just barely) and then re torquing, in proper sequence of course. Im nervous because I believe I could take a chance of cracking the head if my leak is caused from a warped head. Ideas, experiences, and suggestions are appreciated.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 4 replies
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I dropped my 3 speed automatic transmission from my 73 240z, replaced the flexplate and put it all back together. Now there are two fluid lines the feed into the transmission, and these lines connect to the transmission via a bizare bolt with a hole drilled in them. It appears that all I would need to do is bolt the bolt back into the transmission, although I do not understand how fluid runs through the system. So my question is, when reconnecting the transmission to the rest of the fairlady, do I just screw these in like any other bolt, or must something special be done. Thank you for reading.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi guys, I have a 72 240 with a 2.9 stroker. F54 flat top block and N42 head. Dual Z Therapy SU's with SM needles, nismo motorsport 6-2-1 header, 2.5 inch exhaust all the way, port matched intake and exhaust. its got a stock l28 cam in it however, and it falls on its face around 5500rpm, and has a nasty flat spot right around peak advance (3000rpm) that might have something to do with my static compression ratio from what I have read. I have also read that with my compression (should be over somewhere just over 10:1) i should be running a cam with somewhere in the neighborhood of 270-290 duration on this build. is this about right for this engine? and will i need better v…
Last reply by AlexS13, -
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Hello all I'm a first time poster here. Picked up my 1976 280z auto last week and began picking up turbo parts. I plan on running a holset hx35. Now I've gathered: P90 head, which is missing a rocker arm. This will get machined and ported/polished. Megasquirt 1 extra. Not sure what sensors I need to pick up that my l28 doesn't already have on it. Also picked up an intercooler and piping. Now I know I need a tps off of a 240sx but have yet to find one. Is there any other options? To complete the list I believe all I'll need is: BOV, wastegate, turbo manifold, supra injectors (what year?), and I'll do the downpipe and 02 sensor bung myself
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi all, My 240 engine needs work, I found a low mileage 79, 280 engine with N-47 head and tranny. What am I looking at to do this transplant? I'll be using S.U.'s I want to be clear on what I may need for parts or change's I need to do. Thanks, John
Last reply by EuroDat, -
so after replacing the head and futzing endlessly with the timing chain, i finally got her running. went in to do a valve lash adjust after ~600 miles on the new cam and discovered my cam chain was quite slack. while rotating the cam by the bosses i felt it turn a few degrees as the slack picked up in each direction. when i replaced the head, the chain was super tight - so much so that i had to lever the cam sprocket on with a big wrench. it seemed too tight to me, but everything i read stated "zero slack" and that's what it was. the first startup turned over verrrry slowly for a few revolutions, then something clicked and the engine spun free and started. i figured the …
Last reply by rossiz, -
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I have an R200 LSD Diff and a 82/83 5-speed tranny, and I'm going to be swapping out the gear oil in both with Royal Purple before I pack the car up for winter. But, I must be going blind as I can't find the gear oil capacity for the tranny in the FSM or in a forum. I know the diff is 1.5 or 1.6 quarts, but how much does the tranny need? I'll be ordering it on Amazon and I don't want to run short. Thank you in advance!
Last reply by z boy mn, -
- 6 replies
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I have scanned through the various Mallory threads but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so bear with me if I am covering old ground here. I just purchased a Mallory distributor with a mechanical advance for my 1973 240 running triple Webers. I currently have a stock dizzy, stock coil, ballast resistor, etc. Leading to the distributor, I have three wires - yellow going to the water temp sensor, a black wire and a green wire both attached to the dizzy. The green wire seems to just attach to the outside of the unit (ground?). Can I just run the black and green wire into the new Mallory unit with no further changes (keep all the other components the same)? I co…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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