Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 9 replies
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Good evening, When I pulled the 4spd from the '70 a year or so ago during the motor rebuild, it ran fine. I opted for a 5spd and so the 4spd sat covered in a corner of the garage, upright, but elevated to protect the spline. When I re-installed the 4spd, I noticed it was difficult to get into gear. It felt as though there was something wrong with how the shifter itself was interacting with the box. I need to find the slot for the gear, and then apply an undo amount of force way down at the base of the shifter to get it to go in. Once it's in gear, it runs fine, but this same force is required for all forward gears, and reverse. I assumed I'd stored it improperly or othe…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 5 replies
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I was reading trying to find a good clutch to order and stumbled across a thread about adjusting the slave cylinder. "What can you adjust on a slave cylinder" I said to myself, buy a new one and be done. But boy oh boy was I wrong. Thanks to Arne and someone that goes by Dogma I turned that rod out 2 threads and left black marks in front of my house. YeeHaw! I love this forum.
Last reply by Fred Sigarto, -
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After spending a couple of years refeshing a 76 2+2 I've finally got it on the road. One thing I've noticed is that the rear differential seems to whine considerably. However, there doesn't seem to be any clunking or other issues with it. I originally had Amsoil synthetic GL5 gear lube, 75w-140 but switched to conventional valvoline gl5 85W-140 thinking it may be a little quieter, but it isn't. Are the rear differentials on these cars normally a little whinny or might my tooth pattern be off or something. The car has 83,000 original miles on it and everything else seems to be going OK so far. Thanks Gary
Last reply by PunkFriday, -
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My 240z has the following upgrades: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam with 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors which have been rebuilt. I want to install a GEN II mini evaporator and a Sanden 508 compressor to my car: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vta-66005-vuz-a/overview/ However, before attempting this i have been advised by a Mechanical engineer who is now overlooking the car i must first swap to a Street cam preferable the original stock cam and components or else i will have overheating problems when i turn on th…
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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- 866 views
My F54 cylinder holes measure 3.4" after a good cross hatch honing. I've got some Hasting rings, 1.5 1st 2.0 2nd then the oil ring 4.0, for the ZX pistons. Does that -030 at the end of the part number mean thirty thousandths larger? Would 3.416" be too tight? They're cast iron I believe. Thanks for any help/ideas/opinions, Cliff
Last reply by Nite_Grind, -
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So my 77 has a head gasket leak on both sides of the head. Been leaking for several years. Not bad, just kinda seeping until recently. Seems to be leaking a little more now, I think. Think its time to do something about it. But I'm not ready to remove the head and replace the gasket. Does anyone NOT recommend stop leak additives and if so, why? I hear it can plug other passages. But what are my odds of that happening? My cooling system is in great shape. Very clean. Coolant in the Aluminum rad and overflow bottle is very clean looking. Don't see any debris of any kind. Not sure if that matters when putting an additive in. If I have to pull the head I'm going to feel oblig…
Last reply by SMAZCO, -
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Hey mates This evening I was driving my buddy home from my place. Total drive time was about an hour mostly speed at or above 45 mph - so in 4th gear or higher. When I got home I noticed that my transmission tunnel was warm to the touch, not hot just warm on the passengers side - there's no carpet there at the moment. Curious I crawled under the car and placed my finger on the transmission and it was hot to the touch. Using my fancy laser temp reader I got a reading of 147 after about 15 minutes of cool down. Is this normal? I have noticed a small leak of oil - not sure what kind - that seems to be on the back up like socket wire of the transmission. Any suggestions woul…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I have a 71 240z with a 280zx engine non turbo 3 speed automatic. So my old flywheel went out and I decided to replace it myself. I ordered a new one off ebay, which is the same as my old bald one. So I dropped the transmission, unbolted the old flywheel put the new one on and theres a gap between the engine block and the flyhweel, which i assume its how its supposed to be. I bolt the flywheel to the torque converter once the tranny is in place. But when I bolt the bell housing bolts in and the transmission crossbracket, the flywheel somehow moves and the gap dissappears completely, so that the flyhweel rubs on the engine block. I have done this procedure many times and g…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello everyone, I've been tuning up my triple webers, and everything is about perfect. They're synched, the jets are right, they're all a nice even color, and it starts, runs, and drives well. So, now I'm wondering if it's worth indexing the plugs, too. And, as the valves are so closed together, where should the gap face? My assumption is that the gap should be pointed up so it's exposed to both the intake and exhaust valves, but would it be better if it were angled to the right (2:00) or left (10:00)? Curious!
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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- 519 views
Hi Folks, I'm hoping this is a quick and easy question... I installed Unilite distributor into my 71-'Z', It has the stock engine. Followed all of the instructions, and post on the board here... everything works... engine fires up, it runs... Tach also works.. I haven't taken it out on the road yet. My question is this.... the new Unilite didn't appear to come with any timing mark indicators, I look at the old stock distributor to see if the timing indicator some how mounted on the new one.. but it didn't appear so. How do I adjust the timing it there is no timing indicator to adjust with? Am I missing something?? Thanks, -Phil
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hello all, I'm swapping engine and transmission on 260z to 2jz vvti and getrag v160. In future im planing to get more HPs and im wondering what good swaps are there? other then R200? and what LSDs would you advice me to get?
Last reply by er34gtt2000jp, -
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I'll need to replace the intake/exhaust gasket and my head is ported. I had bought the one from MSA, but returned it after seeing the metal liner in the gasket. I think it would be too difficult to cut it in order to match the ports. Anyone know the part number by chance or where I can order it online? I heard felpro makes one, but thats about it. I also have Right Stuff Gasket Maker but haven't really used it much. and don't want to try it unless someone else has already had success. Way too much work to do this twice! Gasket Makers : Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker Also, I don't need the air injection stuff for smog. Its a N42 head with the usual square ports…
Last reply by byunique,
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