Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Just installed the transmission in my '71. Very lightweight crosspiece I thought, and with only two vertical bolts holding it to 43-year old captive nuts, how much torque would it take to strip one out? I have some parts laying around from a '73 and notice that the transmission mount assembly is much more robust. I have to assume the factory was motivated to make this substantial change. Has anyone had some bad experience with the early mount coming loose? Installing this transmission reminded of something a wise old mechanic told me many years ago. He said "Only a bad mechanic blames new parts for this problems." I've found that to be 100% true - until now. On …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Just swapped one close ratio 5 spd for another almost identical close ratio 5spd and as I'm bolting everything back up I notice the angle on the slave plunger is way off and I had to pull the clutch fork back halfway just to get the slave to bolt up. This all worked perfectly on the other transmission and the only difference between the two trannys is the one that is out of the car has the tall ears on the shifter, and the tranny I just installed has the shorter ears.
Last reply by er34gtt2000jp, -
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For and driving environment like Oregon and Washington, what is the best thermostat for the early 240Z? I find them in 160F, 170F, 180F, and one other degree-rating I can't locate at the moment. Thank you!
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
I made my own RT mount for my diff and I'm thinking I didn't make it quite right and it is causing my clunk in the rear. I'm looking to compare my spacing between the moustache bar and rear control arm down braces to your set up. I think my diff mount pushed my diff and moustache bar back too far and it is hitting my braces for the control arm. Pics or a measurement would be great showing the spacing between the two. I am running a r180 diff and moustache bar
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Recently found a reliable mechanic to tune my Hitachi twin SU Carbs. He managed to set the car to 1,100 RPM at idle due to the fact that i have a FAR 311 Race cam and the RPM needle will never keep steady. However after driving the car the following symptoms came out: 1. Car has power but is not running smooth it tends to choke when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear; 2. After 10 minutes of driving the RPM started lowering from 1,100 RPM to 500 RPM tending to stall; 3. Finally when arriving at the shop the electronic fuel pump fuse was blown and there was no fuel present at the fuel filter. 4. Replaced fuse and the car threw a flame from the exhaust when started. Now i am all…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Hello all. I recently found a 280zx turbo rear end which included disk close to me for 50 dollars. Would this be a worthy investment for me? I believe it has the 3.565 r200 rear dif, but I'll double check. I just figured for 50 dollars, this could be a steal and I should jump right on it. Thoughts?
Last reply by Noah Scarpelli, -
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I have a '71 240. It has the earlier, stamped-metal cross piece supporting the transmission. On the top surface of this piece there are two thumb-sized indentations, one on each side of the centre mounting bolt-hole. They cover about half the width of the cross piece. So my questions is, does it matter whether these are to be at the front or the back of the cross piece once installed? Makes sense I hope. Thanks
Last reply by zKars, -
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my oil pressure releif valve is half there--the outer part only--and so far impossible to extract. im thinking of running without it. my question is---is it for smog only????i understand crankcase pressure, but is it that critical for a daily driver. thanks all. steve:ermm:
Last reply by jaltman, -
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So far I see that people seem to do one of two things: 1. Grind out the peened part of the nut and then reuse the nut (I don't get how this works because if you removed the peened part, what's preventing the bolt from twisting?) 2. Buy some 280ZX nuts with a "ripple" in the threads. Not sure how that works because I imagine it'd deform the stud. Anyway, anything I'm missing here? Are those my only choices? Thanks!
Last reply by aochider, -
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My 240z is running a 1982 280zx drive line and the U joints need replacing on the driveshaft. The Nissan dealer tells me that the propeller shaft is one piece so I can't just buy the U joints, although I see shims holding them in, but neither can I buy the whole shaft anymore, discontinued. Do I have to have an an old 240Z shaft reworked to fit(those U joints are still available) or should I just have a new shaft built? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hi friends! I bought the performance camshaft kit with cam lift .480 and duration 274. My questions now are: What are your experiances (if you have installed the kit) and - in special - how did you go on with the valve springs. My mechanic thinks that the valve springs are too strong (130 kp) for that camshaft compared to the 80 kp of the stock springs in my ' 72 240 Z , that might be too weak for that still quite moderate cam. Thanks for your support Rolf
Last reply by madkaw, -
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While installing a set of Hitachi carburetors on my engine i discovered this part had a small hole and needs attention. What is the part number and where can i order it?
Last reply by siteunseen,
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