Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,811 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
- 3 replies
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I don't understand the hatch lock parts I have. The lock without the key has 3 flanges for 3 notches that are on the early Z's. ( 3 notches on the hatch door ). The lock with the key has 4 flanges. I see that they have a 4 flange lock at the Zstore. They say that early Z's will need mods so the 4 flange lock will fit the early 3 notch hatch. Having said that, will the lock with the key work on my 71 if I cut another notch in the hatch. Also, am I missing something on the lock without the key ? ( 71, 3 flange lock ) Thank you very much.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 4.7k views
Just thought I would share the progress on my 1970 240Z Engine and Engine Bay upgrade. Engine is a Stage 4 from Datsun Spirit in Virginia. I went old school with triple Mikuni's (love the sound and responsiveness). It's been about 15 months to get to this stage. Lots of internal upgrades on every engine component, cam, crank, head, block, rods, pistons, valves, etc. Went Kameari Headers and Exhaust (Exhaust still on a boat from Japan), T3 coilovers, R200 Diff, 300ZX halfshafts, Disc Brakes Upgrade. TEC-gt200 Engine Management System upgrade for performance and reliability. Can't wait to drive it... DSI does some clean work.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
- 5.9k views
I know its been covered in the past, I did a search and found an old thread, but what the heck here is what I found. Mine would go well be low E and still have 4.5 gallons in the tank, and the low fuel light would not come on until I was about 2 gallons left IIRC from prior testing. 1st you can remove the sender without dropping the tank, just remove the one holding strap on the filler side (undo the j hook and let it hang out of the way. Remove the filler neck guard plate, then twist the retaining ring, remove and then fiddle the sender out. No need to jack or remove tire (removing tire makes it a bit easier but not needed). 1st I check the ohm range …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 9 followers
- 23 replies
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So I have been working on this for a while. For reference I have a series 1 with dealer installed AC. It’s a giant York compressor shoved above the smog pump. It was in the way of everything. So hard to work around. I decided it had to go. Most of the sanden ac brackets are steel and don’t use an idler. I really like the idea of an idler to tension. I also love the 280zx aluminum ac bracket. My original plan was a 280zx compressor. But they are pretty speedy. So I ditched the whole idea and started the concept to adapt a sanden ac compressor with a v pulley. I had a buddy fabricate some new brackets and boom. Everything lines up. I vapor blas…
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 763 views
I have a 5xxx VIN series 1 that I am trying to bring back to life. All NOS door strikes I have seen on ebay et al are bright white. I am absolutely certain mine were yellow zinc along with the bolts that fastened them to the car. Has anyone else seen that on an early car?
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 2 followers
- 19 replies
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I recently found zbarn.com website. Supposely they have 400 parts cars. Has anyone ever talked to them? I emailed them and called them, and no response. Just wondering....I thought it was too good to be true. Maybe they went out of business in 1999 but somone forgot to tell everyone.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 10 followers
- 32 replies
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Greetings all, I am replacing the hard fuel and brake lines front to back on my '73 Z for two reasons: They don't look as good as everything else which has been recently re-plated, and the flare nuts have all seen better days. All the hardware, brackets and so forth have been re-plated with clear silver zinc instead of finishing up with the gold zinc step. I like it because the car is blue and I have a blue and silver motif going on. I'd like to go with stainless steel hard brake and fuel lines all around for the looks number one, and two, corrosion resistance long term. Classictube.com who has been around many years makes hard lines either way--stainless or OEM…
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
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Hello all, I just recently picked up a 240z from Texas that I have been eyeing for about 5 years. Not much info on the car, it appears to be a 72' based on the carbs and headlight buckets, but the vin # seems high for that year, 149747. It has the usual rust problems although not that bad. The battery tray just started to rust through. The passenger side floor board is rotted due to a heater core leak? The driver side looks intact. There isn't a straight panel on the car, but I am looking forward to working on it.
Last reply by wrecked2001, -
- 6 followers
- 11 replies
- 7.7k views
Clicked on to the Fast n' Loud show and some guy called Big Mike, from the "tuner" world, is apparently their 280Z build expert. Pretty sure I remember a 2+2 from a short while ago, I might have even posted a link. Can't remember. 1975 280Z. Anyway, weird that they chose a 75 280Z instead of a 240Z. They're playing up the whole SAE versus metric, USA versus foreign, thread pattern BS even though modern domestics engines are all metric. I'm sure that all of those LSX engines are metric. Sad. Have to see if they do more than just drive the car around the block.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 4k views
Makes the bump bump bump going up but no down action (motor runs but no movement on antenna). Can push down while manually while operating switch. I presume a break in the plastic line? if so is this something fixable?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
Bumper rams
by ensys- 4 replies
- 1k views
All: I am working to straighten out the effects of a long-ago rear-ender, and the issue comes down to the "before" configuration of the rear bumper rams on a '77 280Z (see fotos) . I think that the right (passenger) side ram bracket is the least deformed, and therefore is the closest model of original configuration, but it would help a great deal to have an unmolested unit on which to base remedial actions. So, can anyone out there offer a comparable shot of a pristine rear bumper ram to provide a model for restorative action? This would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Anyone know who's car this is? It's being used for a craigslist scam.
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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