Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,811 topics in this forum
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Interested in knowing what you guys used to plug the air rail holes In your stock exhaust manifold? I used some galvanized plugs in my manifold that is now leaking. Will be replacing that manifold and looking for other suggestions.
Last reply by Jaymanbikes, -
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Hello everyone, If you are like me and don't want to spend $100 per door lock I may have the solution, I ended up repairing mine with 3 holes and a pice of clothes hanger wire. Please see attahed photo of my repair, it works very well. If you need additional help please reply to this thread I will be happy to help you. Mark
Last reply by AK260, -
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For years, I've read about people fiddling with a Hatch Release of one sort or another. Stuff from other cars, Inverting the lock to the boby and the catch bar to the hatch (I did this one) and even as far as running a release cable from the roof - thru the hatch frame and over to the lock. Anyways, I was discussing possible idea's with Stan, a friend of mine, and I came up with this one. Went down to the 260Z and went to work. I pulled the rear cover on the hatch, Latch assembly and the hatch lock. Took a 3/32" dia. rod and cut it at 1". Then gave it a slight bend in the center, about 30 degrees, then bent some 1/8" feet on the ends. then set it aside. Inside the la…
Last reply by jubart, -
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If you were born in 1970, according to this article, the most important car in the United States was the 240Z. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/g23320934/car-history/?utm_source=taboola_arb&utm_medium=cpm&utm_campaign=arb_tb_pop_d_t_g23320934&slide=51
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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Hello to the early Z members. Question, how can I find out what engine number corresponds to my chassis number? I have a 1/71 production Z. I look forward to the responses and help .... regards, Mcgregor
Last reply by 240260280, -
#1 Cylinder
by 444- 1 follower
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1976 280z, Automatic, 160,000 miles A few days ago I was researching the forum for a problem that I was having with my latest purchase and started reading different stories about adjusting valves, firing order, etc. I read where the number one cylinder was the cylinder closest to the radiator and continued on to number six which is closest to the firewall. The car I have now has number one at the firewall and number six at the radiator. I removed the valve cover and the distributor cap. When the cylinder closest to the radiator is at top dead center, (the mark on the crank pulley at 0 and both lobes on the cam up) the rotor button on the distributor is at the …
Last reply by 444, -
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- 8 replies
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I was committed to updating the information pertaining the amp rating for the Maxifuses I used in the fuse block that replaced the fusible links but I'm embarrassed to admit I can't locate that post. Moderator's help in properly placing this update will be appreciated. Anyhow, here's the update. I have been running this set-up (pics below) for a couple of months without issues. The consensus was to decrease the amp rating of the fuses used as much as was logically possible to test how well they protected each circuit. I've made a point of driving with as much electrical draw as possible with the AC, headlights, sound system, turn signals when necessary, hazard lights…
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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- 26 replies
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Hi, I bought a spot welder: a HTP Quick Spot II spot welder (along with a Tig welder) over the Black Friday time period (sale still going on now fyi) and was asked by someone reading my "bringatrailer" 240z build thread to share some information about it after I got it up and running. Well, here goes: Here is the spot welder. The special offer is currently $300 off on qualifying products when you buy the Tig welder. This spot welder counted as a qualifying product, so that is nice... It comes with the copper arms and tips you see in the pic. These are good to get you started with making spot welds in basic configurations. USAWeld sells oth…
Last reply by inline6, -
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- 18 replies
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'72 240. Been having a periodic problem of flooding while at idle. Symptom is fuel bowl overflowing usually while sitting in traffic or after returning from short engine off period. My initial thought was that my 3psi electric pump was overloading the needle valves. But, this does not explain why it runs fine normally. So, this past weekend, I filled the tank (probably more full than usual and after the car sat in the sun for a few hours I smelled fuel and noticed fuel spilling out from the filler (with cap in place). So, I disconnect the vapor valve under the hood and blew through the vent line back to the tank...it was free flowing. So, my theory is hot fuel …
Last reply by David F, -
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Hi everyone, I have been adding to my restoration/build thread over in the build thread forum area, and thought I'd post a link in the general discussion area in case anyone visiting here would be interested, but maybe would not necessarily see it otherwise. I hope to be adding some more video soon, but I have a bunch of picturesa and pretty regularly provide updates. You'll find details showing tear down, body work, mechanical work and reassembly as I go. I am targeting end of July this year for completion (probably wildly optimistic!). The car is a 1971, which spent working life in Arizona, and another 25 years in a garage in Colorado. It's getting a ro…
Last reply by inline6, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 936 views
Our late father's 1972 240Z is for sale in Texas. He was the original owner. Please note the mileage listed is wrong, as the gentleman handling the sale for our mother was not initially aware that the odometer had rolled over. I would be happy to try to answer any questions you may have. I stumbled upon this site by accident, so hope it isn't inappropriate to post this. Listing is here: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/marion-1972-datsun-240z/7056714243.html
Last reply by SGS, -
- 5 followers
- 15 replies
- 3.5k views
OK I can't find any info for this specific question online and I can't remember for the life of me how it came off the car. Where exactly does the fuel level sender harness come up through the unibody so it can connect with the body harness? I.e. which hole in the hatch area? There's a hole directly above the tank and I'm reeeeeeeeally hoping I don't have to drop the tank again because I did things out of sequence... Thanks in advance all.
Last reply by BoldUlysses,
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