Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
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This is probably a stupid question, but I cant figure out what some of the hardware that came with the adjustable Konis are for. Specifically the metal sleeves and the plastic washer. I'm thinking that the metal sleeve is to be used as a spacer for the strut, and I was wondering if i could use that to gain suspension travel?
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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- 4 followers
- 20 replies
- 3k views
Moving this over from the "strange intake noise" thread since that's solved. My friend's 1975 280 is having a strange problem where it stumbles every time you hit the gas. We installed an air fuel gauge and when you hit the gas it will go into 'off the chart lean' numbers and then stumble up to catch it. Once it's in a high enough rev range it's responsive, but getting it into the 2.5-3k range is difficult to say the least (see video below). It's also worth noting that it idles fantastically, but it's literally just when you hit the accelerator that the jetronic EFI doesn't throw enough gas at the engine to keep up. The only way to get it to run well(i…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
- 56 replies
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My Z runs horrible and I’m unable to locate my timing marks when the #1 piston is at TDC. Have a 1970 240Z 5speed, with 139K (engine rebuild at 134K). Performance modifications: Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust and Trust GReddy JDM Exhaust Headers. PO installed a Mallory dual point distributor, which I changed to Pertronix version 1. During the ignition change I found the timing before at 1-2 degrees ATDC with points and 20 degrees BTDC after Pertronix install. I’m sure that change had something to do with the electronic pickup. I was unable to retard the timing much due to adjustment limitations on the distributor, so I adjusted the timing by drivability an…
Last reply by ZNate, -
- 3 followers
- 55 replies
- 4k views
Hi guys, My friend's 75 280 has always made this strange hissing from the intake: https://youtu.be/mjrzNhHvXL4. Any ideas what this could be? We took off the cone filter and when we did we could hear it from the afm, so we took off the afm, and could hear it through the throttlebody, when we took off the throttlebody the sound stopped (kept the engine running by pulling the temp sensor cable and left the tps switch in to run rich enough for it to not die). We've checked multiple times for vacuum leaks using both a smoker and a can of starter fluid on the manifold and there are no leaks. We also tried 2 other throttlebodies and both make that noise. I've …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
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- 514 views
I'm winding down on this years work on my 75 280Z and my one job is installing new gauges in the dashboard, and I'm looking for recommendations for a shop in PA or NJ around the PHILA metro area 40-50 miles either side of the Delaware river. Thank you,
Last reply by Killain, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
Greetings all, I have a series one 240z with a L28 with 240z head and carbs. I did install the Petronix Series II electronic ignition. It seems to want to stop power past 5K and I get an occasional exhaust backfire. I am thinking I need to recheck the timing,, as I have been running it at 10 degree before TDC. Have not done the valves for a bit, so was thinking of checking that too. I did just check the carbs for float level and sync them. If I keep the rpm done, it seems to run fine, which is fine for general driving. But it's just not right at higher rpms Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Last reply by jpc3006, -
123 Ignition 1 2
by joe newsom- 3 followers
- 15 replies
- 4.2k views
Hello Everyone, I am looking for some help with some where to set my 123ignition centrifugal curve and MAP curves. I have a 280zx block with N42 head that has upgraded cam. I am running Z Therapy Carbs. i was hoping to get some number that are a good starting point.
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 1k views
Started my '71 240z this morning for a drive. While idling noticed the oil pressure gauge was sitting on zero. Shut it down, checked oil level (good). Started again and removed the oil filler cap, looks like lots of oil being slung around. Maybe the sender has failed, maybe the wiring, maybe the gauge. What's the next troubleshooting step?
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
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Driving my '71 240z in the hills today. Leaving the scenic outlook, decided to chirp the tires a little. Something went BANG loudly in the rear end. Coasted to a stop, did a visual inspection, nothing found. Continued driving, but the loud BANG started happening again and more frequently, only when I was on the gas, not when coasting. Parked it again, no visuals again. Called the tow truck, now back home. Put rear up on jack stands. In neutral, rotated the tires forward at same time, while friend grabbed the drive shaft. Some times the shaft would turn in sync with the wheels, other times it seemed to skip or jump. Asking the experts in the group fo…
Last reply by kenward1000, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
20220730_210302.mp4 Back at again. Listen to the cranking of the engine and advise me of what's missing to keep it from starting. Also, at the start of video you will hear knocking from the engine, if you know where that come from or caused by will help. The plugs are firing and the firing order is correct. All other electrical compontents check out. Thanks
Last reply by James Que, -
- 4 followers
- 21 replies
- 1.8k views
Hey all: We have our 260Z idling reasonably well now, and the temp gauge shows it staying right at normal operating temperature as long as we let it idle — but the second I shift into first gear and let the clutch out, the temp immediately climbs to 250°+. Here is a little video demonstrating the issue: We have some coolant system flush stuff in there right now and plan to drain it soon, as it’s been in there about three days now and we have run the engine a little each day. But before I put any more coolant in there I want to hear some ideas about what might be causing this. The car never acts like it is actively getting too hot, but the gauge says o…
Last reply by DadAndLadZ, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 609 views
Hi All, When coasting can hear a rattle in the front of car after further inspection it's the front brake pads in the Toyota calipers. The pads have a slight play up and down, under vehicle weight and non-braking conditions they're moving as the rotor turns. Louder when I start to drive and the brakes are cold, quieter when the brakes are hot but still moving. Have others experienced this noise with the Toyota front brake conversion? Any fix to the issue? No tabs to bend on the pad shim / backing plates. New pads only 300 miles. Thanks.
Last reply by Racer X,
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