Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 13 replies
- 3k views
I'm still trying to put the strut that holds the rear hatch up back onto my car. I was missing a bracket, but I have since gotten hold of one (thanks Jerry) It looks exactly the same as I remembered, yet I cannot work out how or where is fits :stupid: Would someone be able to take a picture of their bracket/strut so I can see if I am still missing something. It's the end that fixes to the body. I have a 73 240Z. I have checked my manual, but unfortunately, the exploded parts view thing stops at the strut, so no help there. Thanks guys Scott
Last reply by cometgurl1980, -
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- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
Hi Guys and Gals, I need help getting my 10/69 Fairlady ZL back on the road this spring. Currently she covered up out in the cold waiting to be fixed, I'll start as soon as it warms up, if it ever will. The clutch went and I'm gonna need some parts. I've replaced the clutch in my 218hp. 240Z back in 94 with a CenterForce II, it's still going strong. I don't think I'll need a high performance clutch for the Fairlady, a 200hp. 5-speed. I'll need the clutch, pressure plate, maybe a flywheel, throwout bearing & spring, needle bearing, and all the rubber gaskets & boots for the tranny. Any suggestions? In case I have to write to Nissan, I wrote to them years ago c/o …
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
I installed a 280zx alt in my 260z, I had it wired up perfect but the "sense" wire had no power going to it, I ran a jumper wire to the battery and I had 14.6-14.8 output. Awesome it works, but I've just been connecting and disconnecting the jumper wire when I go to start it. I heard on most alternators you can run a constant power wire for the sense post but, the factory had it get power there when the key is forward. As I read its through the wire that is supposed to supply sense power that the gauge is run. I don't that much about the gauge right now. I tried running it off of a "run" position power source, but as some power is lost through the switch I now read 15.08.…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 17 replies
- 2k views
I have a 1972 240z with round tops. I rebuilt the carbs with the Ztherapy kit. I got the car warmed up and tuned them as best I could but when I went to drive the car, it struggled to move along. The car revs up fine while in neutral. I tried messing with the timing and it did nothing to help. I checked the vacuum advance in the distributor and it appeared to be functioning properly. The spark plugs are new. I pulled the fuel lines that go from the fuel rail to each carburetor and cranked it for 20 seconds or so and they both flowed well and the gas was clean. The float levels have been set properly. I took the return fuel line of and blew air through it and i could hea…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 11 replies
- 1.6k views
Good morning everybody, Its been a while and as a different user since I have been in the group. The my 1974 260z sold itself. So I had the itch to get another and found a 1972 240z. Went to look at the car and the guy put the wires backwards to start the car. After a short sizzle and some odor I realized what he had done. he had a video of it running a couple of days earlier so I was comfortable with the buy. But now I'm at work and regretting letting him do it. Because now there is no response to life other than the brake lights working. nothing else in the car reacts to the battery being plugged in. My question is: If the fuseable link coming off the starter is bad, wo…
Last reply by Chris Marcotte, -
- 27 replies
- 8.6k views
Hi, I have just bought my first z, but I have a problem which I'm not able to figure out. The car is a stock 280z with a l28. The engine runs good when it's cold but when it gets warm it starts to have a rough idle and it will not rev smoothly. It can run bad for some time and all of a sudden it will be able to rev smooth and without any backfire through the AFM/air filter. If i try to drive the car it will stumble on acceleration and it will eventually die out. But the engine will easily fire up again just after it has died. And it can run smooth again for several minutes before the same problem occurs again. Or it can still have a rough/unstable idle and have trouble re…
Last reply by HSL, -
- 9 replies
- 1.1k views
First off this is really long but please read, I need some help figuring out whats next. OK so this whole mess started out in october when I first took over the Z fighting and fighting to get it running right it ran decent when it was first brought back from slumber. But I had bad tank issues which soon caused it to not run at all, then that led to a carb rebuild, and no matter what I couldn't get it to run right, run yes but never consistently, could barely make it up the driveway missed like hell and couldn't stay running with the choke on. And fouled back plugs in minutes, and the rest in hours. Seeing as it fouled the back plugs so quick I figured carb adjustment i…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 6 replies
- 2.7k views
Just below the hood release latch in my Z, there is a black box with two white female end plugs coming from the unit. I found two different sets of numbers: The first set was on a green tag: Part #: All-600 000 Lot #: 6310 For: L28 The second, on a white tag: Part #: A14-100 003 Lot #: 6211K Is this thing the Engine Control Module? If so where do I plug those white plugs into? I can't find any other plugs that could reach there. If anyone has any advice that'd be really helpful! Thanks a lot all of you. John
Last reply by superlen, -
I need some help 1978 280z I broke the trim part that is located on the passengers side up front under the dash that covers the main wire harness does anyone know what it is called and if it is possible to find another one Thanks for any help I can get
Last reply by jeffn1968, -
- 1 reply
- 677 views
The car will start and idle fine run up to 3500 rpm when the secondaries should kick and boggs any ideas ? Before switch over to su carbs iwanted to try to get these going . I tried unscrewing and cleaning out the jets no help thanks it is a 73' l24 240z thanks
Last reply by malibud, -
- 1 reply
- 956 views
Hey, all. I have a Weber 32/36 on my truck with an electric choke. The butterfly is loosey goosey and doesn't snap into place like it should. It's like the spring has sprung. Everything appears to be hooked up right. Should there be any play in the linkage? It also seems kinda janky and loose. I can only crank it if I take the filter off and close the butterfly myself. Once it's warm it's wide open after that. Anyone know where I can buy that spring if that's the issue?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 4 replies
- 8.4k views
Anyone know the equation for the +5.8% 3/4" high profile of the stubby in this figure? (I found equations for traditional elliptical bell mouths but not for a stubby plate design like in the figure)
Last reply by 240260280z,
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