Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
Ok so I have the hood popped out in the cold the other day trying to get my car started and after it runs and dies I notice smoke rolling out of this thing just above the intake, its black, rubber, and has a chunk of hose coming out of it it leads to this that leads to more tubes that go into the head. I at the time had no idea what this was but looked it up in the FSM and found it to be the air pump inlet check valve. My has has dual webbers and no smog pump. I got her running decent today and decided to see if this is related to my running issues, I put my finger to it and notice smoke shoots out in rythm with the engine I plug it with my finger and idles drops, and car…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
Today I replaced my distributor cap and rotor. I have a pertronix electronic ignition in their. I touched absolutely nothing else, at all. I have checked the firing order about a dozen times, but the car absolutely will not start anymore. I drove it about 5 minutes before doing the change. The car cranks, and after cranking, it actually does fire a few times like its running on two cylinders for a few seconds before dying. So there has to be some ignition happening. I pulled the spark plugs, they look fine. After all, the car just ran. What could I be missing?
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
- 2 replies
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i just bought a 1973 240z for my first car. it turns over but doesnt start. it turns over really smooth but just wont fire. what should i do first to try to get it to start? it has original su carbs. any help will be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by spiffy240z, -
- 6 replies
- 2.5k views
I discovered that the previous owner of my 1972 240Z replaced the gas tank with the wrong one,and am in need of the original . Does anyone have any ideas ,or better still, one for sale ?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 replies
- 3.9k views
My FSM gives the torque for the M10 bolts that attach the ball joint to the control arm as 35-45 ft-lb. But as I was tightening past 30 the bolts that came with my ball joints (marked with a "10" on the head) started to pull apart. I tried again with some new 10.9 bolts that I have and even those feel like they're stretching. They feel kinda spongy instead of torquing up crisply. This is all with my wrench set below 35 ft-lbs; I checked that I was indeed using foot pounds. What could I be doing wrong here? Any ideas? Top bolt with the big crack is what came with the Moog ball joint; bottom bolt is my non-JIS 10.9 M10x1.25.
Last reply by bacarl, -
- 15 replies
- 1.9k views
Hey just finished doing a major overhaul on my back carb, with how many times the damned thing tried to kill my car I feel like it was more of an exorcism. Got in back on, car runs great let it warm and take it for a spin around the block, out of no where it starts running like crap, then dies, ten will not start back up cause the battery is dead, jump it with my daily same thing happens again before I can get it home, finally just push it, charge up battery all the way, starts right up, runs awesome, get the voltage meter hooked right at start up reading 11.97 couple minutes later, 11.84, rev it up a few times, 11.77 watching it as I rev it, It falls to 11.64 car misses …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 942 views
The standard biston for 280 engine or make it 0.5
Last reply by Ali Aloosh, -
- 3 replies
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Hi folks- This is my first post here. By way of introduction, I am not new to forums and I'm also not new to working on cars. Although I will say that working on gasoline engines is not really my strong suit; I'm a bit more familiar with diesels. I owned a 1971 240Z in my 20's, and I bought another one about a year and a half ago. I bought this Z in southern California and drove it home to northern New Mexico. The car is in decent condition, although it took a lot of tinkering to get it back here.... new plugs and a few filters along the way... but it did make it. It's been basically sitting for the last year and a half. I drive it every once in a while just to keep …
Last reply by robox, -
- 5 replies
- 2.2k views
Hi, I bought a 240z style bumper for my early 260z, After I got it repainted only did I realize that the 240 brackets didn't line at all. Well I decided to pull the brackets off to figure out a solution, So I went at it and regardless of how WD40 I used or how much I qire wheeled the threads the bolt made it half way and promptly broke. I still have one on one side but on the other they are both fubar. The smaller angled brackets appear to be welded to the bumper itself, and I can't reweld them. I need to remove the old bolts, but see no way to replace them, I have a few ideas but am really lost on how to get them out other than drill them out. Are they welded in place or…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 11 replies
- 4.6k views
Anybody with a working 240z windshield washer sprayer mind taking a picture of the end of the nozzle? Mine seem to have been mangled by the previous owner. My pump was dead when I got the car and I finally replaced it, and I get a steady limp wide stream of water that comes almost to the windshield. All I can find is tips on using wire to de-clog the system, but I'm thinking with how chewed up mine are I think somebody might've reamed out the nozzles too far. Smaller orifice should provide more pressure and therefore distance, right? The closest picture to the business end of a (ostensibly functioning) nozzle is from this ebay listing and it looks pretty flat and eve…
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
About a month after I bought my car every time I would start my car it would crank and crank and crank and crank till finally it turned over. This got worse and worse over time but now it is just the same every time I try to start my car. I have been told it could be a cold start valve but other people say it has to be really cold outside for the cold start valve to even turn on. Please help, I need to get her running right again. It is a 1983 280zx non-turbo Please help Ive been told as I said before I have been told it has to be below freezing before the cold start valve starts working. Is this correct?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 7 replies
- 7k views
I'm going to be installing a new timing chain, and I was wondering what the best way to remove the front cover is while the engine is still in the car.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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