Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
-
- 9 replies
- 5.6k views
Does anyone know where I can get a heater control valve for my 78 280z 2+2? This is the one with a vacuum actuator on top. It is located under the dash against the firewall on the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks PS. It has factory air.
Last reply by kacrow76, -
-
- 5 replies
- 1.9k views
I have a 73 240z in which I removed the L24 and dropped in a L28 n42/n42 with n36 intake and 3 screw round top SU's. Car ran good before no problems. I dropped in only the head and block no accessories, kept the L24 distributor, coil, starter and alternator. Now, when I drive the car it will break up once it hits about 4,000 rpm's. I can not get it to rev past it pretty much falls on its face. I have gaped the NGK plugs at .032 and that seems to be the best for the car. It runs great until it hits 4K then it just won't go. I checked the battery voltage it is 12.7 with the car running. I have tried adding and removing fuel at the carbs to no avail. Is there anything else …
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
Good morning everyone, I currently own a 1975 280z and have the opportunity to get a 240z shell. I've read that they both use the same chassis and the difference from the exterior are the front and rear turn signals. I would like to convert my 280z to a 240z and I was wondering if all the interior and drive train of my Z will retrofit in the 240z.
Last reply by RoCa, -
- 0 replies
- 636 views
I'm in need of clutch parts for my Fairlady ZL, 5 speed. I doubt if I can get them through my local Nissan Dealer. It's a 10/69, which I plan on restoring for next years car show. It needs a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, needle bearing that goes into the 2.0 litre engine, the wire spring inside the transmission, the rubber boot in the tranny, and the other rubber boot under the shifter leather. I wrote to Nissan Headquarters, 17-1 , Ginza 6-chome Chuo-ku, Tokyo back in 1970, again in 2001 and received a nice letter from Shoji Takahashi. I heard that Nissan moved. Anyone have the new address, I'd like to contact them again to see if they can help me. I hav…
Last reply by Fred Sigarto, -
- 12 replies
- 2.4k views
I need some help. Can anyone shed some light on wheel size thats best for my z? I have been told to upgrade to 16inch wheels, but having a problem finding them with 0 offset? I do not want to cut and add finders at this time, but want to escape the 14inch slots and upgrade to larger brakes(including disc in the rear) I'm running 14inch slots with falken 225/60/14 at this time. I just do not what is best? Please advice? Thanks
Last reply by LeonV, -
Hello, I registered on this forum because i found this: It's not listed as a scarab but it has the same widebody Could this possibly be a scarab? I have no idea.
Last reply by superlen, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Master mechanic of 40 years and I put in a 1979 L-28 with 80k miles into ,1980 280zx, we used same rail injection and distributor as old blown head gasket L-28. Have tried to figure out why only hitting on 5 cylinders not 6.. Injector and spark timming are perfect; but just cannot get #1 cylinder kicking in-it has good compression. Am hoping it is not a burnt valve; but at a very big loss as to what it could be-hopefully something simple; maybe electrical. MAF, and sending units seem to be working properly. Thank you for looking into this as we are very stumped here!
Last reply by superlen, -
- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
The wheels I ordered (konig rewinds 15 x 7 0 offset) came with black rings. I think they are centering rings. They will not fit over the very last lip of the hub. I grinded down the plastic tab on the center cap of the wheel and smashed down the grease cover, the wheels now fit great. My concern is not having that black ring on. Does it matter?
Last reply by derbyD, -
- 10 replies
- 2.4k views
My goal is to install the O-ring and seal internal to the speedo drive to stop a leak, but I am not sure how to remove the drive carrier/pinion from the transmission. I did remove the 10 mm bolt that holds down a little flat retainer. Does the whole thing unscrew from the transmission? There are no flats or a hex on the drive carrier so I wonder if I just grab it with channel-lock pliers? Thanks!
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
- 9 replies
- 5.1k views
Hi everyone, The issue is this; within 500' of pulling out of the driveway and under the first bit of load, say up hill, the car will run great then it will seem to run on 3 cylinders. It will run cut to half power, run rough but not die, then seems to recover provided I keep it under 3,000 rpms after a series of exhaust backfires. I thought it might be fuel starvation but pressure measured after the pump is in the correct range. I did swap the fuel pump and had the same pressure. The tank was boiled and repaired during the restoration. There is no contamination in the filter, which is new. I have had a Pertronix Ignitor with the stock coil in the car for about 200 m…
Last reply by ollie, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
Previous owner rigged the heater core piping so now my heater core is always hot. I can't hardly stand the heat during a NC humid summer afternoon. I'm going to correct the entire circuit in the next few weeks, but there is a shut off valve in the hose coming from/going to the water pump. I'm not sure of the flow or if blocking the water through the heater core will cause over heating. I would like to turn off the heat, but I don't want to screw up my engine. Thanks for the help.
Last reply by zKars, -
Cam Wear 1 2 3
by 240260280z- 31 replies
- 7k views
L24 fresh rebuild with Schneider springs, medium Delta regrind Cam (internal oiling), and new reground rockers ate the cam after ~ 2000mi. Very good oil pressure. Assumed bad metal, straight 30 break in oil followed by synthetic oil played a part. After removing and resolving the above... A new medium Schneider Cam with new rockers was installed 1,500mi ago and lobe 1 is starting to show wear. (on the back side of the lobe). The oil is dyno with zinc additive. I am now guessing that the Schneider springs and/or a partial oil blockage to the head are to blame. The springs were extremely difficult to install due to their high spring constant and the oil flow out of th…
Last reply by 240260280z,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
