Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi, I have come across what looks like a good 71 240Z for $2300 which I am thinking of buying. The owner knows little about it, it has been garaged for the last 10 years and never been started. It has a little rust but looks good. I don't want to start it because it has been sitting for so long. My questions are what should I be looking for in terms of trouble spots, what should I do to the car before starting it as it has been sitting so long and is 2300 a good price? I love the Z car, I was thinking I would end up with 280Z or a ZX but a 240Z looks very nice. Any help appreciated, thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm at my wits end with my 75 280. On Friday I noticed the fuel pump wouldn't shut off with the key, then shortly after that it started running super rich and rough. at first I thought fouled plugs, before I did anything I looked for vacuum leaks, lose wires anything out of place. Then I did some searching on here and the Web, nothing I read fit so anyway I changed the plugs, water temp sending unit, fuel pump, and the ignition coil. I switched out the fuel pump relay as well. All cylinders are getting spark. I'm limited to just a few hand tools as most are still in Colorado. Until Friday the car was running fine. Thanks in advance for suggestions and ideas. Eric
Last reply by Cethern, -
- 13 replies
- 1.9k views
I have a 1978 280z, stock car, no mods. It sat for about 5 years. I drained the tank, placing a fuel filter between the tank and the new fuel pump, changed the oil and flushed the radiator. I replaced the fuel injectors, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I also installed a new temperature sensor. I read it causes problems so I replaced it since it was only $15. My 2nd cylinder is missing (wire's and plug are good, tested by swapping with Cyl 1 plug and wire, and they worked on cyl 1). The 2nd fuel injector isn't working, I hear no tick. I suspect I may need new connectors since they are in pretty bad shape. Any suggestions what kind? I have not checked th…
Last reply by tfsbecause, -
Distributor Help 1 2 3
by fastd- 28 replies
- 7k views
I pulled my distributor to change the leaky gaskets at the distributor and oil pump (part of a bigger job of replacing the clutch, oil pan gasket, seals). Anyway, I think I got the oil pump and distributor right but I think I may be off a tooth (or two). The car started but just barely; no backfires or funny sounds; but I couldn't keep it alive. I checked TDC and its pointing to the #1 spark plug wire... Question: Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? To save me doing this a…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 8 replies
- 1.2k views
Sooo... I should start by saying I've read on here as much as I could... No brake lights. The pedal switch tests good. There is 8 volts on one of the black why yellow wires going to pedal switch. (Any ideas as for why 8?) My main question I suppose is at what location/connector does this wire turn from black/yellow to green yellow? I feel seriously stupid right now... Any help appreciated.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
Hi guys. I'm thinking of making a running cutaway L6 engine for a display. Carbs should be the simplest approach, and running on a couple of cylinders, with the rest exposed. Oiling and cooling would have to be addressed, but if it only ran for a few minutes at a time cooling should'nt be an issue. Has anyone done this before with an L6? Here is a guy on youtube running a Ford model A engine like that. Can anyone offer advice on this. Is it feasible? Would it create interest at a car show? Brian.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
Installing new side seals. Nissan part. Do two lips face the block or the crankshaft? These are one piece seals from Nissan. Thanks
Last reply by WW2Winger, -
T/S issue!
by mjr45- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
My right T/s quit and after posting a question got to work. First off 6-8 of the wires in the passenger side tunnel had come out of the connector and after multiple attempts at crimping wires for a new connector gave up and soldered them all(crimping wires to connectors is something I've never been able to do correctly, I've got about 6 crimping tools). After still no T/S attacked the switch which I've taken apart 3 times and the best I get is an intermittant right T/S so I know its in the switch. I'm a little leery about working on it again for fear of the little tabs breaking off and then what?
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 5 replies
- 2.9k views
There are five bolts to mount the water pump to the timing cover but there are 7 holes. Are the other 2 holes in the timing cover for alignment pins or are there supposed to be threaded studs there? Thanks, Randy
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
I've done too much work so far to cut corners and try to use 'straightened' motor mount brackets. Likely was bent when pulling the motor. Anyone have a spare set lying around? My eBay options start at $80, which seems extreme considering the number of parts cars lying around. Nearest junkyard that I know will have them is nearly 2 hours away. Should have addressed this a long while ago.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 23 replies
- 12.4k views
I was at a car show this weekend and driving back the car was getting harder and harder to put into gear. I finally could not get into gear so I coasted to a store/ gas station. I had some looked at the operating cylinder as I pushed the clutch and nothing happened. I checked the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and it was full but very black looking. The clutch master is not leaking. I have a 11/75 - 76 280Z and was wondering if I should replace the clutch master cylinder or get a repair kit to fix the one I have? If the repair kit where can I get one? I see there are 6 different ones listed on Rock Auto for my car. Not sure which one to get. For the opera…
Last reply by malibud, -
Starting issues 1 2
by Pomorza- 17 replies
- 1.4k views
Hello all Over the past couple of weeks I've been having a problem with starting my car. This is what occurs, when I get in the car and turn the key to start there is a delay - as in I have to wait a few moments (usually a second or two) before the starter engages. I originally thought it was key portion of the starter system (the back side of the key). That fixed the problem for a couple of weeks but now its back and is worse. This morning I got in my car and turned it over. It started once and then nothing, every time I turned the key the voltage would drop but the starter would not engage. The battery is new - about a month old - and the starter works lovely when it wo…
Last reply by EuroDat,
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