Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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So I’m a novice gear head...I replaced the oil sump pan gasket and the previous owner(s) stripped several of the bolts holding the pan to the block. The bolts are M6-1. What method would you recommend to repair? I think coil inserts would work and I could keep the original M6 bolts and torque specs. Tang or no tang? Thank you. 240Z 1970 early series.
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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- 5 replies
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I just got my 260z back from the shop* just in time for winter storage and have a new issue to address. On the drive home, my temperature gauge showed +250 after a few miles. The engine was not hot so the mechanic suggested I install a new temperature sensor. Unless I pulled the wrong part off my car, something does not match up (see photograph). Just above the old and new sensors is the port it screws into. Do I just need to purchase a new retaining nut (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7115) and switch out the blade connector to a female bullet on my wire? *Welded and reground failed camshaft, installed extra-thick exhaust manifold gasket…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I just installed a new Kameari High Performance Oil Pump to my 280z. I have an L28 with triple weber carbs. I installed it because I had no oil pressure at idle. I also threw in Rotella T6 5w-40 oil into the car as a ton of people recommended to use Rotella to me. Before I would use penzoil 10w-30 but the car would burn about a qt every 2k miles or so. Needless to say after doing this, the car idles amazing now and is insanely smooth now through the rpm range. Before my car drove like the webers needed a tune. It feels like my car might've just gained some power. Before the new oil pump my car would idle around 800 rpm, but after installing the oil pump the car now idles …
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
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Last reply by Zatarra, -
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Hi all, I have recently bought a 280Z 1978 in London UK. It was an ex Cali car and from the license plate hadnt been driven since 2007. Ive spent the last couple months trying to get her to run right, however She went from initially running a bit rich/smokey to now not running at all. Ive replaced the fuel pump as the old one was dying on acceleration (Installed a fuel pressure gauge). Ive replaced all normal things, spark plugs, oil, etc. The loom was very corroded so I have replaced the injector plugs with new ones, making sure to keep the right wire numbers/code from the handbook illustration.The AFM has been siliconed shut as in it has been perhaps tinkered with befor…
Last reply by 280zdude, -
- 2 followers
- 17 replies
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Hey y’all I’m fairly new to the z community as I picked my z up just a couple months ago. I’ve been trying to diagnose an issue and I think I found it when my coil exploded in front of me. The po bypassed the ballast resistor and now I’m trying to replace the coil. I would be ok with an internal resistor but does the primary and secondary resistance change or is it the same spec? I can’t seem to find any at local auto part stores so what should I order?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
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I did try to search this, and realize this issue has been discussed from 6 to 16 years ago. But I was hoping there might be some newer experiences that would help me. I replaced my clutch hose, then attempted to bleed the clutch. There was leakage where the clutch hose connects to the slave cylinder. Based on the research, either there should be an inverted-nipple connection (I'm not sure I'm even allowed to say that anymore), which leaves a few threads exposed on the clutch hose, or there should be a copper crush washer, with the hose flange bottomed out against the washer and slave cylinder. Unfortunately I managed to throw away the old hose, so I can't compare, bu…
Last reply by Seppi72, -
- 5 followers
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I thought that this had been discussed yet I could not find the thread via search. I have a series 1 car (1970 240Z) with a 5 speed. I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder and wanted to ask which one I should buy? There is the manually adjustable one which appears to be for the 1970-1972 and has a hole for the return spring then there is the non-adjustable one without the hole for the return spring which appears to be for 1973-1983. These are available from MANY sources so I'd also be interested in which you have had good or bad experiences with so I can further narrow down the one to buy.
Last reply by adivin, -
- 4 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.6k views
So the headlights on my late model 260z are not working on brights or regular. The brights blue rectangle in the tach does not light up either. This car has a newer headlight switch and turn-signal switch and I think the headlight harness upgrade as well. It has worked in the past until last night when I was out late then expected and tried to turn them on...that was fun Does this car have a headlight relay(s). Fuse is ok. My electrical skill level weak so please keep explanations very simple. As always I appreciate any help
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
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Hey people, I'm new to this page. I just bought a 280z and I ive been working on it. I had it running for the past 3 days. I noticed it had a Air leak after the air flow meter so I drove to the parts store got some hose, then drove back installed it. now the car won't even start. I need help! I have tried everything I can to get it to run, it wont even start on starting fluid. Have spark in all the plugs.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 6 followers
- 11 replies
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The clock in my '76 starts when I connect 21 volts, runs for a few minutes, and then stops. The hands do not move. I know this because I have removed it to look inside it. Everything looks clean. I lubed it with three-in-one oil, with no satisfaction. Can someone say with certainty that a new board would fix it? Joe
Last reply by zclocks, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
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Hi Guys, 1977 280z. Just got back from a drive and I can’t get the rear tail lights to turn off even when the car is off and the key is out. The headlights and side markers turn on and off as expected, just the tail lights are having an issue. Not sure what fuse this is linked to, but I tried pulling a few to see if I can turn it off to no avail. 1. Any idea what fuse tail lights are linked to so I can at least get them off so they are not running down the battery? 2. Any advice on where to start with troubleshooting?
Last reply by Muzez,
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