Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Hello All: Can anyone help me? My 1972 240Z Factory Manual specifies that these bolts be oriented so that the nuts are toward the driveshaft/U-joint (boltheads against the Diff front flange). The problem I have is that the bolts are too long (even though they are original) to feed through the flange. The front seal cover(?) of the diff is too close to the flange to allow the bolts to be slipped into the flange. Will my car fly off the road if I install the bolts "backwards" to the manuals reccomendation? Why do they specify this? Thank You to all for any assistance/advice. Thanks, Carl cstahlnecker@hotmail.com
Last reply by adivin, -
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- 3 followers
- 7 replies
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I have a 73 Z production 12/72, and owned it since new. I am in the process of finishing the resto and have encountered a lighting issue. With the key on the directionals work properly, front and rear. The rear light has the upper and lower lights blinking at the same time. When I turn on the marker lights, the directionals still work but the rear upper blinks slightly before the lower and all the marker lights dim in time with the blinker. I have tried it with the hazard flasher with the same result. I removed the bulbs one by one-no change. Checked the ground at each socket and all good. Is this unique, or has anyone encountered this.
Last reply by KeysZ, -
- 6 followers
- 20 replies
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So the car had been driving fine for a bit, decided to do a spin on a nice day, about 1 hour in on the way back, the car completely shut off and lost power, it wouldn’t turn back on. The only only way to turn it on is by turning the key and pressing the accelerator. It will not go faster than 5 mph. There is not much coolant in radiator, oil level seems okay, didn’t notice any “chocolate milk” although i did check a day after as I had something to do that day. Theres coolant that I can clearly see, I’m not sure if the car blew a gasket or just overheated, I pushed it back home as it was close. In the picture where the little liquid puddle has formed thats the coolant. Any…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 7 replies
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I need to buy a Clutch Throwout Release Bearing Sleeve for my build and see that there are different ones available. Do I need to match this to the transmission (using '77-'19 wide ratio 5-speed)? The clutch fork (using early 240Z clutch fork)? Or something else competely?
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 1 follower
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Hi All, Re: 1973 240Z I've spent a bunch of dollars on new brake lines and brake related parts. The brake distribution switch under the master cylinder, one of the existing brake line fitting was cross threaded (either on install or extraction) in the inlet and the new brake line fitting will not thread. Tried to the clean up the threads with a tap, no go, fitting will not seat on the flare. So the brake distribution switch is trash. Are there other options outside of searching for a used to brake distribution switch and refurb? Any aftermarket unit (proportion valve) that can replace the stock BDS? Understand the brake distribution switch is not a pro…
Last reply by Blitzed, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
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Hey guys. so I bought my z a couple years ago and it didn’t have anything audio related installed. Every time I drive the z I just bring a Bluetooth speaker in te car with me lol but I’ve had some extra time on my hands and I’m installing the retro sound stereo. Everything is going pretty well, only thing is that I don’t like some of the popular speaker locations (the kick panels or the big box in the trunk). I want to see if I can use the OEM speaker locations. Ok so this is where I’m stuck. I’m aware that these Z’s only came with one speaker back then. On the drivers side rear behind that plastic panel, I see I have a speaker mount bracket there. Dude is there any …
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
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I have put together a cheat sheet for all to you. Use this sheet when you need to understand when someone abbreviates a phase and you do not know what it stands for. Now my no means is this list complete. If you knwo of additional items let me know and I will update the list and replublish it for all.. If you would like this sent to you please email me with your request and what format you would like it in. Datsun FAQ Acronym Page DRCV distributor retard control valve A/C air conditioning A/F air/fuel ratio A/T automatic transmission or transaxle ABS antilock brake system AC air cleaner AC alternating current AERA Automotive Engine Rebuilders Assn. AFM air flow meter AIR …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 756 views
I went digging through my parts over the weekend and could not find what I was looking for. If anyone has a clutch fork like the top one in this picture please let me know.
Last reply by texasz, -
- 9 followers
- 23 replies
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Hey guys, I noticed what I assume is oil leaking from my spark plug sockets. What does that mean? Should I be concerned? I’ve attached a couple photos. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 834 views
Hey I recently got 1980 280zx from my dad and one of the first things I noticed is that I was getting really bad gas mileage (10 mpg). So I did all the normal things to try and remedy the problem such as: new air filter, new fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires, checked the cap and rotor, adjusted the ignition timing, tuned the valves. And for some reason I'm still getting 10 miles to the gallon. I also checked my spark plugs again recently, and they are very black. I believe that means the engine is running rich. Does anyone have any ideas of why my car could be running so rich and getting bad gas mileage? Or a way to test? Thanks you so much!!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 30 replies
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Hi fellow Z lovers, I recently bought a ‘71 and am using it as a daily driver. The car is generally in pretty good condition and runs well for the most part but sputters/jerks/misfires(?) while going uphill. This usually happens while within 10% of 65 MPH/3500 RPM. So far it hasn’t completely died yet but it doesn’t feel, sound, or look good when it happens. I’m worried about it. The car has a rebuilt, non-original L24 with about 45k post re-build. What should I be looking out for?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
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Hi, Is there a tool I can use to remove the ring from a 1978 280Z Fuel Tank Sending Unit ? Let me know. Thanks, Guy
Last reply by gsitler,
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