Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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Tough one here has me scratching my head. As always, thanks in advance to the group for helping think through the issues. Full tune-up and carb balance completed. Based on my cam, the car likes to sit at idle at 900-1000 RPM. Holds this idle while in the garage. After driving for a bit, starts to lose idle at stop lights. Will drop down to 600-700 RPM, which is rough given how lumpy my cam is. Maintains idle in the range, does not fall further or stall. No other loss of power or performance issues. Plugs, wires, etc. in good shape. Any ideas?
Last reply by AK260, -
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- 5 followers
- 13 replies
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Hi guys, I noticed yesterday a periodic gasoline (not exhaust) smell in the cabin while driving with the windows down. With the windows up, the smell disappears. I opened the hood while the car was running and didn't smell any gasoline then got under the car near the fuel pump and didn't smell it there either. I thought it could be the vapor tank hoses but if that was the case, I'd smell it in the cabin all the time I'd think. I can only smell it while driving with the windows down. Any ideas? EDIT: I started it and sniffed all over the engine bay and it seems to be coming from the passenger side firewall area (near the battery). I'm …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 994 views
I know questions regarding Z antenna have been asked before but I've not seen any answers for my problem yet. My antenna motor works fine but the mast wouldn't work due to a broken mast line. I located similar sized mono filament trimmer line and tried replacing the original plastic/nylon cable. The issue is reconnecting the top antenna portion to the new cable. I've tried recreating the original connection (a round metal collar) but noting I've tried clamps well enough to not come loose. Also, the diameter has to be small enough to be pulled into the top portion of the antenna. I'd hate to toss an otherwise good unit and buy a non original replacement but I can't…
Last reply by LongliveZED, -
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Have a 9/70 240Z with a blown fuse link and no power at red-white at ignition. This happened last fall before car storage, so I have researched over the winter and have worked on the problem for many days. Test 1: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from fuse link connection to solenoid while key turned to start. Had spark when jumper wire touched solenoid. Solenoid appeared to engage a little. Same test/result we had last October. Test 2: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no response. Test 3: Same as #2, but disconnected positive battery connection f…
Last reply by ZNate, -
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- 12 replies
- 1.1k views
Rookie mechanic looking for a pro tip. Got the brass shifter bushing kit from MSA (sucks that you have to file material off to make them fit) and can’t get the pin back in. Many attempts at this blind process. Any ideas on how I can line up the shifter fork holes and holes in the bushings?
Last reply by Geoff's 240z, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
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I need help everyone. I have been having trouble with my hood on my 260z popping open. I don't have to even go over a bump. It seems like pressure builds up at city speeds and then it pops open. The alignment of the hood is correct and it shuts easily enough, but as soon as I start driving it pops open. I will post some photos of my latch this evening. If any of you have advice please chime in. Thank you, Ben
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 6 replies
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Im basically 3/4 way to get 280z on the road, I decided to go the long way instead of paying “a guy” to pass smog. The cat is probably stock and rotting away, the exhaust system its self is also slightly rotting away with little holes in it from rust. I decided on going down the root of getting a 3-2 headers with a smog fitting and a brand new cat. I don’t want to fail visual inspection as I live in California but I also don’t want to break the bank. Would a black exhaust from MSA be to noticeable and would I get turned away for it? ZCardepot has a stainless steal version with a smog fitting as well, but I don’t know if its as good as quality as the MSA 3-2. Any tips on e…
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
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I need help getting my 260z with round-top SU’s running again. Symptoms: It cranks and pops but no start. Leading up to this, the engine would stumble. This was after I did some work on the car and I’m assuming caused the issue. In order of repairs, there’s the list: 1) Replaced the transmission. 2) Replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. 3) Replaced the oil pan gasket. 4) Adjusted valves, discovering a damaged cam lobe. Spark plugs were coated with carbon, so I cleaned them with a propane torch. <this is when stumbling was first notice, but car not driven since before transmission was changed> 5) Removed rocker in contac…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 5 followers
- 42 replies
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To set the scene: early ‘74 260z with four screw round tops and a recent l24 swap. ive been chasing little issues trying to get this l24 that I swapped in, to run. i drove the car with these round top SUs on the l26 with the current float level and mixture adjustment. Since putting the l24 in and trying to start it, fuel has started to pour out of the front of both carburetors after I stop cranking. I previously adjusted the float level and recently checked the float level, they are within spec. I ran and drove with the carbs set up this way and didn’t notice fuel leaking from the carbs before, and I’m guessing that it would’ve started a fire …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
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- 838 views
Hello all. I hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have this 240z I’m trying to get running and am having a bit of trouble getting it to run. The car will start and then sounds like it runs just fine but does after about 20 seconds of running and then will not start again unless I let it sit for an hour or so. my first thought was rust in the tank causing poor fuel delivery. Fuel was an orange color in the filter. So this morning I ran the fuel feed line in a clean jug of fuel to bypass the tank all together (electric k&n fuel pump). This caused the same outcome. Started and sounded good for a short moment, then dies and wouldn’t start again. could…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 777 views
Finally got the car running decent and its time to pay fees and smog. hooked up my carbon canister with a T fitting, adjusted AFM so it runs a bit leaner at idle. Timing needs to be set to 10° along with a new oil change pre smog. I have also decided to do a e85 and regular gas mixture, a 3:2 ratio, 3 gallons of premium gas and 2 gallons of e85. Is there anymore I could do to ensure a pass for California smog? Car still smells like gas but not as much after adjusting afm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
After some help from zedhead with picking injectors, the car now runs like a charm and sounds like a healthy 6 cylinders not 5. Injectors fixed the starting issue, the slow acceleration issue and a ton more. Sadly I have to go get the car smogged at a star certified shop. My carbon canister is not setup correctly at all besides one hose, I would love some visual help with setting the canister up since I am a visual learner. It is mainly missing the distributor to carbon canister hose, I couldn’t find a good diagram for it.
Last reply by dylancorrea1,
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