Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Hello, I’m a novice and learning as I go on my 1970 240z. This pic shows a wire attached to the water temp thermal transmitter; but I cannot identify the other unused wire…FSM indicates it could be the water temp switch? There are no other obvious connections in that area. Thank you, Mike
Last reply by DedZed, -
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Hello all. I really hope I can get some positive help here i recently purchased a 1971 240z that has an l28 swap that had set in the desert a couple years not running. So long story short, the previous owner had done some really “hackery” of a job to the wiring in the whole car. I have spent the past week or so getting the car ready to crank and start for the first time. I finally got the car to start and of course idled a little rough. But my concern is that when the engine stumbles and is about to die the starter solenoid kicks back on by itself without me touching the ignition. what could be the cause of this? I have installed a new starter and a new ignitio…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 3 replies
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240z speedo needle bouncing. Read that drive cable needs to be lubed. Have pulled cable inner from transmission end, cleaned and lubed said inner with 3-In-1 light oil. Blew out the housing from the speedo end. Now, how to lube the inside of speedo cable housing and with what?
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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- 14 replies
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I put an l24 into my 260z to use temporarily and so far I haven’t been able to get it started. I don’t know the history on this engine, I got it for free and was told it ran, I didn’t want to ask too many questions incase he decided it wasn’t going to be free anymore. Aside from the long block and fuel pump, everything on the engine is what came off of the original engine which I did drive the car with. since the engine has compression (albeit not great compression) and has the ignition and carbs (round tops) that I used previously, I don’t know why it wont start. Sometimes when cranking it’ll fire and sound like it’s going to start, but doesn’t. …
Last reply by Cooper260z, -
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I have a 240z with an engine & 5-speed from a 280z. I've always had trouble shifting into reverse, but now it seems like the clutch won't disengage at all. I've installed a new slave cylinder and bled the line (I think I did all this properly 😅). I've also adjusted the clutch pedal almost all the way out. Attached is a video of the slave cylinder actuating under full petal press. It seems like it's not traveling as far as it should. I took the boot off for visual reference. 125930574_PXL_20210605_1916584222.mp4
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 8 replies
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Where do I hook up my remote starter? Has two leads, thinking positive cable & ? 72 240Z Thanks! Steve
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 27 replies
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I've had my '73 240z for a couple of years and its always run pretty decent, but it overheats in city driving. Last fall I was driving and hit some rush hour and it got pretty hot (about 3/4 of the gauge). After a while I got out of traffic and it started to cool down some, but about a mile from my house it started running really rough and 1/4 mile from my house it died completely. I coasted downhill to my house and pushed it into the garage. It wouldn't start, but I was so tired of the overheating I took the radiator out and got it rodded out. I also installed a fan shroud. After I got all that put back together, I've been trying to get it started, and it just won…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 5 replies
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I placed an order a month ago with Tabco, got the confirmation order number but they have not shipped the items I ordered. Been emailing them several times with no respond. The toll number 1-800-782-5226 don't work in Canada? Anyone ordering from Tabco have any issues? Can anyone in the US call the number if it still works? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by 240Ziggy, -
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- 14 replies
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Having Tachometer Issues and need to troubleshoot. Finally got the Tach loose and out the hole. I've tried everything....having a helluva time getting that connector loose, only enough room for 1 1/2 hands. What's the trick?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 814 views
Hi all, I need help identifying my 280Z. On all of the documents I got (Bill of Sales, Certificate of Titles etc.) it's stated that it's a 1977 year model (California model if that matters). The plate on the driver side door says 11/76. I stumbled upon this thread talking about the difference of the rear panel of 76 and 77 280Zs. Edit: forgot to put in the link: 280Z differences (Timeline) - Open Discussions - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) I checked mine and it has only one slot on the driver side, making it a 1977 model...? Now I don't know which parts I need to order. Those of 76 or from 77. What are other characteristics …
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 1 follower
- 18 replies
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So when I bought my 1978 Datsun 280z the PO gave me a set of 6 injectors. I was thinking about cleaning them out since they all checked out on my multi meter. But they don’t really look like 280z injectors even though he claimed they were. So are these 280z injectors? Forgive my ignorance. If they aren’t are there any cheap alternative injectors or cheap injectors in general that are trusted that fit stock.
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 1 follower
- 23 replies
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It appears my low beam and high beam switch is broken, is there a quick fix to this to have either a constant high beam or low beam. I was thinking about soldering them back into place, but not sure if that would work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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