Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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January '19 acquired a 72 240z. Previous owner installed a Wilwood brake kit, 17" wheels, upgraded suspension. QA1's with chrome coil over springs, 200# in front, 350# in rear, adjustable camber plates in front. As I've been driving it, have been thinking that front suspension is too soft and rear is too stiff. Over the two years I've owned it, have been noticing that it's harder and harder to get my floor jack under the front cross member, for jacking. Initially could have a 2x6 on top of the rotating cup, then it wouldn't fit anymore, had to ditch it. Next had to ditch the rotating cup. Now I have to remove the floor jack front wheels, to slide it underneath.…
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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- 1 follower
- 3 replies
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Long story short: bought a 77 280z from some guy who tried to convert efi to carburetor because of EFI problems he apparently was having. He installed an ignition module from a ford ranchero (luckily it somehow worked)however, he Never got the car running. I bought it, turns out the gas tank was completely fried. Bought a new/used gas tank, installed, car runs good. Had a good friend come over and tune the carbs, car ran good still. Went to take it out on a longer than usual cruise, and the car after hitting 45-60 mph slowly would loose power. I have backfire coming out of the exhaust upon de acceleration. Spark plugs were wet and black. I leaned out the carbs a bit to re…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.3k views
I had the 74-260z out the other day at night. Headlights as well as radio and heater fan on. I had to make a turn and put the blinker on and the headlights and dash lights started dimming with each blink of the turn signal, the amp gauge also dropped with every blink and the tach gauge also dropped with every blink. Is this normal or do I have an issue with something. I know the electrical system in these cars does not produce much surplus power so is this normal.
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 599 views
I know that this may be a long shot, I need to get in touch with an admin from Hybridz.org to help me access my account. Long story...short version, I cannot access my account, it must have an old email address so password reset not working, no public link to get help on the site. So if you are an admin over there please contact me. If you have an account over there and can help me get in contact with an admin please let me know. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. 🙂
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
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Swapping out the automatic to manual transmission. The reverse switch has two male bullets. The automatic wiring harness has the same male connections. Looking for a female to female sleeve to avoid cutting and replacing one side or the other. Looking for some insight here. Thanks... John
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 3.2k views
My ‘73 has the 8.5” booster rather than the 7” one. I have a rebuilt one on its way but I can’t find a gasket to go between it and the firewall. I’m wondering if they ditched this gasket on the bigger boosters, or if it’s just NLA. The gasket for the 7” is readily available. What are people using if I can't find one to buy?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 33 replies
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I’ve done some looking but haven’t found anyone describing this particular scenario. My car is an early 74 260z, I replaced the rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers, new drums, shoes and hardware as well as new wheel cylinders and master cylinder. The brakes work pretty well though they don’t lock up the wheels but they don’t have very many miles on them so I don’t expect them to yet. The brakes work but the issue is that the pedal has nearly no resistance when depressing it while the car is running, it just goes to the floor. The braking force increases the further the pedal travels, the pedal just doesn’t get harder to press like you’d expect. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 50 replies
- 6.9k views
I don’t think it’s relevant to this question but just Incase, I’m currently switching from flat tops to round tops on my 260z. I've done some reading on the matter but reading too much I find that I kinda get too much information and start to second guess what previously seemed like good information. So, common issue I hear, leaking coolant tube between the intake manifolds. A seemingly good idea I’ve read is to just bypass the intakes by putting a hose straight from the thermostat to the hardline at the rear of the engine. Can anyone tell me if this is a terribly bad idea? I have a basic understanding of why the water is run through the…
Last reply by Trnelson, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
- 5k views
Did a vacuum test yesterday on my 72 240z. plugged the gauge into a port on one carbs intake manifold. Reads about 14" at idle, goes up to 20" when revved above 3000 rpm. Are these values "normal" or do they indicate a vacuum system leak somewhere? If the reading is low, how to figure out where the leak might be? Thanks IMG_6987.m4v
Last reply by kenward1000, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
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I'm new to mechanics and Z's and learning as I go: I have an oil leak on my 7/70 240z, so I removed the oil pump and dropped the oil pan. Laying in the front of the pan was this metal tube and I cannot find it's source. I think it's hollow and has two very small holes along it's shaft; and one end looks like it was brazed. I think it's use is for spraying oil? Is it part of the windage tray? Thank you.
Last reply by DedZed, -
- 5 followers
- 25 replies
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I bought this engine with the purpose of rebuilding it, i have stripped everything down to the block, inside of the coolant passages i found a weird thing that i cant identify. I wanted to take the block to a hot tank to clean all the parts before i started putting everything back in. I found this disgusting thing just filling the coolant passages and after asking someone said it could be Stop leak and that the block was done. Can someone identify what is that? Will it go away with just a deep clean or any substance to dilute it?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
Ruined Wheel Hub? 1 2 3
by Tweeds- 2 followers
- 33 replies
- 2.5k views
Recently started doing some brake work, figured I'd go ahead and re-grease the bearings and wheel hub while I had everything off. When putting the races back in place, I guess I dinged up the sides of the inner hub. Should have bought a kit to reinstall the races, but thought I'd save some money and use various sockets and tools lying around. Once everything was back together, I put the hub back on the axel stub and was spinning the hub to tighten the locking nut and settle the bearings, but I was hearing what sounded like metal scraping. I imagine these dings on the hub's wall are what caused the scraping sound. I also imagine that the pieces of metal I broke off are cau…
Last reply by Racer X,
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