Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Can anyone help with information on a repair shop on the East Coast (preferably from Virginia up to Connecticut)? Most "vintage" repair shops I have talked to do not know anything about classic Japanese cars. Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 3 followers
- 12 replies
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I am trying to post a video of my car starting with open headers (sounds great!). It is a MOV file, which is in the list of accepted upload formats, but what program should I have it open with? Should it be: iTunes, Movies & TV, Photos, Windows Media Player, or another App? I will attach a MOV file that opens with "Photos" to see if that works. start_and_walk_around.MOV
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 917 views
Hi guys, Going to change my transmission fluid today but can't find a definitive answer on what spec GL-4 fluid to use (75w-90 for example). Does anyone have a definitive answer? -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
- 19 replies
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Hi everyone, I recently rebuilt my front round top carb because the float valve started acting funny. I double checked my float level and it does seem to be set correctly, but when I went to tune the carbs I could not get the AF mixture correct. I'm using a color tune, and even with the mixture screw all the way up the colortune shows flame orange. Any ideas why the carb is always running rich? Thanks!
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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- 3 replies
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Hello all, I just picked up a 260z. Previous owner took everything apart and took the body down to metal. The car is literally a rollin chassis. My question is apart from doing the body work first, which parts should be installed in which order? My thinking was Dash-> Electrical> carpet-> interior trim> seats> steering column> pedals, gas tank, rear suspension> front suspension> hatch>doors>glass>engine/trans>exhaust. I’m just not sure what the order of operations are on this car. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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- 24 replies
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Hello to all, It seems I have shot myself in the foot needlessly again. The expression goes "If it aint broke, don't fix it" Well, I really fixed it. Bought the rebuild kit for 7 inch brake booster, bead blasted and cleaned it up, pulled it apart and got down to the "valve operating rod assembly" There is a cylindrical rubber boot in the rebuild kit so I proceeded to rip off the existing rubber part, trusting that I would figure out how to disassemble and remove the springs etc to install the new one. Now I'm thinking the parts are permanently crimped on and not designed to be removed. I either need to find a way to dissassemble this part or order a replacement v…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 13 replies
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Looking to address this weird “chugging” air noise on my 78 280z. I’ll attach a video. Take a listen and let me know what u think.? IMG_1072.MOV
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
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I removed my brake booster during the paint process. Looking at my brake booster I have a few questions: Is the actuator on the master cylinder side supposed to just pull out, to include the rubber grommet? (See Photo) Is there a gasket needed on both (or one) side of the spacer? (See Photo) I see a silhouette of a gasket, but there wasn't one on it. When I tried to check the booster with a vacuum pump, I could get it to five or ten pounds of pressure, but it would lose vacuum pretty quickly. Do I need to seal up one side or both before adding vacuum? Lastly, are there good alternatives (that you've used) other than the $170 booster sold on Z si…
Last reply by HappyZ, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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Hello to all, I have two issues that I'm putting out there in hopes of some guidance (maybe from the old school?). I have entire rear end and diff out of my series 1 car and I'm trying to remove the staked nut from the stub axle. I've cut away a good deal of the staked part of the nut and now hearing I need to put most of it back in the car to remove the 240 ft lb nut. Is there another trick to breaking this nut loose? The nut is also on the inside of the hub and I'm wondering how one gets a good position to crank on that nut? It seams to be regular threaded but a confirmation of that would be appreciated too. I'm also having trouble locating a used rack and p…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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Disclaimer: I don’t know what exactly has been done to this car as far as modifications though I don’t think it’s much. And I’m not great with wiring At first I was thinking I had a zx distributor but if it was a zx distributor wouldn’t it have a little box on the radiator side of the distributor? But the igniter(?) Block inside the distributor doesn’t say pertronix on it so I don’t think that’s what it is And then my tach currently doesn’t work but I have voltage at the red/black wire on the tach, that varies with rpm so I think that means I’m getting tach signal and it should be working. So does that mean the tachometer itself is just broken?
Last reply by Cooper260z, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
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I have my 240Z in for paint and the fenders are off. I see a fender liner (rubber seal) on Z Car Depot. Do you all use them when installing your front fenders? If so, the clips that hold the seal are $6.50 each and you need 12 of them. Is there an alternative for the clip? https://zcardepot.com/collections/gaskets-grommets/products/fender-to-body-inner-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z https://zcardepot.com/products/fender-liner-clip-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78?variant=19274988060785 Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by HappyZ, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1k views
I have a 6/72, 240Z and looking for exact replacement decals as shown in attachment. Seems the emissions decals I have seen are slightly different. Anyone have an idea where I can purchase them?
Last reply by siteunseen,
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