Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
- 6 replies
- 2.3k views
Hi guys, I found a battery hold-down bracket and J-hook in my box of parts but cannot find the bolt needed to secure it to the firewall. Does anyone know the size/pitch of this bolt and I'll head to Home Depot tomorrow? All I am able to find is the nissan part number which is 08360-61812 and the bolt is an M6 but I can't find the pitch anywhere... This is the bolt area I'm talking about:
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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- 3 followers
- 7 replies
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I'm running a L28 with DCOE 42s and fuel is supplied by an engine bay mounted Spectra Sp1141. Pressure is regulated to 4psi and there's a new fuel filter before the pump. Engine compression is great. No vacuum leaks or fuel leaks to be found. Car idles and runs great, but for a hesitation from idle to acceleration. The car will pull to highway speed no problem. The mystery is that on a long sustained hill it starts popping and has a hard time going. My guess is it is going lean as it starts popping and then hesitating. As soon as the car is on level ground it's fine again. This is with 1/2 a tank of gas. Any ideas or diagnosis suggestions would be appreciated. …
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
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Ive been having trouble with my 280z. My last Z was a 72 240z so fuel injection was pretty new to me when I started working on this. Ive been slowly learning the nuances to the L Jet system. The problem was a bad idle and not staying runnning. Old owner said it had bad gas in it so I dropped the tank and looked in and there was an inch of sludge. I rinsed all the sludge out of the tank and treated it for rust. Tank was perfectly clean when I put it back in. I also put in a new fuel filter, fuel pump, and just to be safe I swapped out the injectors and rail for the fuel rail and injectors from a running car. I also blew out the lines. Car still ran like crap. I got a fuel …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 19 replies
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Hi guys, My brake booster definitely has a small but increasing vacuum leak. I know it's leaking because if i hit the brake pedal the engine rpm slightly rises. I noticed yesterday the brakes really arent what they used to be when going at speed (new pads were put on about 8 months ago and the car has probably been driven fewer than a few thousand miles so that isn't it). Also it wouldn't be the master cylinder as a new one was installed last July. My question is, I'd like to get a larger non-vacuum leaky booster on there and I hear the 79-81 ZX's 10'' booster is the way to go. I can't seem to find a definitive yes or no as to if that will bolt right onto my…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 6 followers
- 9 replies
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Hello, I’m new to this forum and Z cars. I got a 260z that was sitting in a garage for 25 years, and as a result some of the hoses are very brittle. I took the air filter housing off and accidentally broke the hose that goes between the carbs and I can’t seem to find a replacement hose online. I could probably just go to a store and get one that fits but wanted to see if I can find a stock molded replacement first. The hose is sort of “U” shaped, and is a larger diameter where it attaches to the carb on the front of the engine. Any help is appreciated, thank you. Side note: I’d also like to replace all the other hoses h…
Last reply by Cooper260z, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
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When in neutral, my Clutch just fell through and my Clutch pedal reached the floor with no resistance. I could not disengage the clutch even though I let the pedal come up again. Had a look. Seems like the clutch has completely(?) disengaged? In the car, the mechanism moves when I press the pedal, but it seems like something broke inside the firewall and the clutch just ”fell out”? Is the clutch master cylinder broken? Something else? Really happy it didn’t happen during a Cruise!!! I have a 240Z -73 Any help appreciated! Thanks!!! FullSizeRender.mov
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 1 follower
- 31 replies
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So i just recently got my 280z to start and idle for about 5 seconds and then it dies while idling it runs rough any gas makes it die, fuel pressure tested at 38 psi and bleed down was slow and stayed at 20 psi. have good spark new plugs,wires, and distributor. Coil primary resistance is 1,6 ohms which is more than the recommended 0.6 ohms so i dont know if thats a issue. Cleaned all connections best i could and ran i new wire for the pin 1 on the ecu to the negative side of the coil along with swap ecus and drop resistor packs, i havent been able to verify timing yet waiting on a extra set of hands. just wanted to see if anyones had the problem before and knows some tr…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 914 views
I'll be swapping my leaking original radiator out for a shiny new Champion 2 row aluminum radiator (EC634) first thing tomorrow and I realized I don't have a drop of extra coolant around. Does anyone know from experience that this radiator will require more coolant than the stock radiator holds? Its odd I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Assuming I don't lose a drop of the almost new coolant while draining/refilling, should I 'make a trip to town' tonight to buy a jug so I'll have enough to finish the job tomorrow?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 4 followers
- 3 replies
- 903 views
I just sent 240Z to paint, and would like to replace the rubber grommets everywhere I can. Do any of you have a list or (ideally) a diagram that shows them? Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by HappyZ, -
- 4 followers
- 35 replies
- 3.3k views
Hey guys I'm at a bit of a loss here. Problem: My gas gauge is correct until it reaches the 1/3 full mark. At that point, the needle will fall to an empty tank reading within a few miles. An empty tank reading at that time denotes 6 gallons remaining in the tank (if i take it immediately to a gas station, I will be able to put ~12 gallons in each time). Steps taken: I installed a new fuel sending unit from zcardepot which oddly didn't fix the problem. The only thing this fixed is my gas gauge needle slightly wiggled around a millimeter or 2 continually with the old unit - the new sending unit fixed that. Swapped out the dash gauge with a…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 986 views
Went to start my 1971 240Z project car the other day and the clutch does not disengage. Checked the forum and figured it was the Master or Slave cylinder. Ordered and replaced both, but only get about 3/4 inch travel on the slave cylinder after bleeding the system. What is my next step? Looking for any answers that you all may have. Many thanks.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
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I started with this adjustment guide: https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ I can get the motor to run for a bit, but then it suddenly will stop and spit fuel back out the carbs: I recently disassembled the distributor, cleaned everything, put in fresh points and some other hardware. I just bought a timing gun, but it's hard to check timing on one side of the car and start it on another, seeing as how it usuall doesn't run for too long. Has anyone seen something like this before? Other videos: https://youtu.be/jRxGxSqsDXw, https://youtu.be/4MFxvqKeHo0
Last reply by Awk34,
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