Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 457 views
So my driveshaft on my 260 makes a noise when at high speeds I take my foot off the accelerator. Basically if I am punching it and say OK - fast enough and stop the acceleration and then are coasting with no torque to the drive shaft it makes this same noise it is making in this video, just much more, louder etc. it sounds like the driveshaft is gonna come up through the floor- maybe that's an exaggeration but you get the idea. Is that amount of play in the driveshaft correct? I replaced the universals a while back , doesn't seems like they are part of the play , it seems like either the transmission or the Differental.IMG_4827.MOV Any thoughts?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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- 4 followers
- 19 replies
- 1.7k views
So the speedo needle in my late model 260 started bouncing excessively the other day. The bounce range being 30 to 80 MPH. It works fine then bounces, back to fine etc, etc. So I took the speedo cable off at both the speedo and trans, it was well oiled and in what seems to be very good shape. I took it out of the sheath to check for cable damage and found none. I took the pinion gear out and it looks good also, 16 tooth no damage I can see. So...what's the deal, why the bounce. Is the speedo itself having an issue? Any thoughts?
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 2 followers
- 56 replies
- 3k views
Hi guys, I'm running lean all of a sudden and not sure why. It is worst when hot-starting with a very lumpy idle that stabilizes after a minute or so but it is weak throughout the rev range (unless flooring the pedal). The idle stabilizes the longer it sits but is definitely misfiring (or not firing) when hot started. The idle is very lumpy but also smells very rich. New plugs with ~2 hours run time on them. Injectors about 2 years old. Any idea on the below plug images?
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 372 views
I have a 12/70 car that is having a serious rear brake issue. Here is the background. I have an early 2/71 parts car (still lots of Series 1 pieces) that I removed the suspension from, had sandblasted and then powder coated. As I removed suspension pieces from the12/70, I replaced with the refreshed pieces and torques to spec. At the same time, I rebuilt the halfshafts, replaced and greased the u-joints, replaced and greased all bushings, replaced shocks and springs (Koni yellows and Eibach springs), replaced all bearings, and packed the hubs with fresh grease. The last piece of the puzzle are the rear brakes. I replaced the pads, added rubber new brake lines, b…
Last reply by bluez, -
- 5 followers
- 21 replies
- 2.7k views
I have an L28 in my 71 240Z. It's carbureted and using points ignition. I attached photos of the the jet all the way up and all the way down. Also a pic of the timing scale. Before I used Colortune: I plugged the vacuum advance on distributor I set the timing at 10 degrees on the scale. I adjusted carbs for a 800 rpm idle I also balanced the carbs. I turned both Jets all the way up and then backed them down two full turns. I reconnected the vacuum advance. When using the Colortune: I couldn't get a blue color no matter what I did with the mixture screw I went all the way up to a weak mixture - screw would…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 729 views
Hello, I have a 76 280z. I am putting a momo 3503 hub adapter onto my steering shaft. Every video I've watched of people putting hub adapters on their s30 it seems they slide right on. Mine goes on very snug, but I can get it to go on about 6mm or so before it gets really hard. Maybe I could pound it on, but doesn't seem right and I don't know how I'd ever get it off. I have checked the splines on both the hub and shaft and they look OK. I even bought another hub and tried that with no success. I have 2 other steering shafts laying around and it's always the same thing. Is it possible both the …
Last reply by fusion, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 867 views
Hey I have a few questions about the rear Hatch Struts. I’ve read a few previous posts on the topic but I’m not 100% clear on the topic. So is the rear hatch supposed to open by itself all the way once you push the release button? Or do you have to assist it a few inches before it opens all the way up? My rear hatch won’t open by itself, I have to assist it pretty much all the way. Now it holds open no problem and requires mild effort to close it. At the last 3-4” when closing it will not hold, it basically free falls the last 3 inches. So is this how it’s supposed to work? I was thinking maybe new struts might be in order. Now if they need to be repla…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 4 followers
- 14 replies
- 6.4k views
Purchased a one owner 1973 240Z with a L28 transplant (car has not run since 1999). Restored a 1969 SRL 311 (once Datsun always Datsun), the emission removal in 69 was much different then mid to late 70's?, I'm not sure the year of the L28 engine in the car, N42 head. The owner had extensive documentation but the service contract back in 83 neglected to state the year of the L28 engine installed. My question is where can I find step by step instructions on emission removal, vacuum bypass or plugging diagrams. See engine pics attached (sorry had to throw my Roadster engine pic in as well, car is for sale). The value in the center of the manifold (with throttle li…
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 8.3k views
Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It out…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 23 replies
- 9.9k views
Alrighty guys, yet another fuel sending unit/gauge problem at hand! I have searched through both CZCC, ZDriver, ZCAR, and HybridZ and haven't been able to find a solid answer for my problems. Here is basically the story/symptoms: A few of you may have seen my thread on my recent purchase of a Fairlady 240Z that sat for 20 years in a covered shed-area in the moutains of Santa Cruz. When I first got the car the fuel gauge was reading about 3/4 at a full tank, however the tank was quite rusty so I had it professionally repaired and sealed by the Radiator Doctor (San Jose, CA, they did a great job for $285). I reinstalled a new fuel tank sending unit, o-ring, and lock plate…
Last reply by AK260, -
- 3 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.3k views
I’m looking to upgrade my tachometer in my 73. My current tach needs recalibration. Restoration of my tach is between $250 and $350. I’m looking to put a 5” autometer tach in instead. What is the process like to install a modern tachometer?
Last reply by nahurry, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 316 views
Now I have to find the 3 alternator bolts for an S30 somewhere, the 3 that thread into the alternator itself. I thought I had bought a set, alas it was the ones to attach the mounting brackets only. Does anyone have these 3 bolts and willing to part with them?
Last reply by SteveJ,
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