Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Hi everyone, I've got a 74 260z with an L28 and round top carbs that I've recently restored and rebuilt. The engine is timed and I color tuned the carbs recently,and up until a few days ago everything was running brilliantly. However, on my latest drive the engine started sounding muffled and I suddenly lost power. I figured it was a fuel issue, so I went head and swapped out the fuel filter and checked for fuel pressure and everything was spot on and the engine started nicely. Then on the next drive, same issue. Could it be the valve lashing? Will try to get a video of it later today. Thanks!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 1 follower
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Hi guys, I'm trying to find the bullet connectors for the fuel pump to splice in a cutoff mechanism and cannot seem to find them ('78 280z). I looked under the passenger side carpet (behind the seat) and under the seat itself but cannot seem to find any bullet connectors. I attached a couple pictures showing the wires I'm looking at. Picture 1 shows an aerial view of the wires under the carpet (behind the passenger seat). Picture 2 shows what is under the passenger seat. Am I looking in the wrong spot? -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
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Everytime I lift the piston on one carb it gets stuck about an inch up and the only way to get it to come back down is to pull the nozzle down an Inch down? Any ideas
Last reply by 240260280, -
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My 78Z has spent the last year on jack stands while I restored the suspension. I've now got it all put back together and am finally ready to get it running. I drained the fuel tank before starting the project. My question is what, if anything, do I need to do to get it running again? Specifically, I was wondering if just refilling the fuel tank with fresh gas and cranking the engine until it starts is OK. I am assuming that there is currently no fuel in any of the fuel supply lines running from the tank all the way up to the engine. Is priming of the fuel pump necessary?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 5 followers
- 24 replies
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Hi everyone, I'm nearly done with my front suspension. I was able to replace the tie rod ends today. I completely forgot to take photos before I uninstalled everything and I'm stumped. Can you guys please let me know if I have the orientation for the ball joint and tie rod end correct? Thank you guys!
Last reply by BayAreaZ650, -
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Hi guys, So something odd started a few days ago. I drove the car to and from zcon this year and it was perfect (about 1200 miles in total) then I get back and of course theres some sort of gremlin that was waiting for me (but luckily it hid for the duration of the trip haha). I was driving today at highway speed (70ish) and the tach jumped from 3.4k to 4 and then later in the drive jumped from 3.4k to 6 (the engine speed didnt budge, just the tach). All of those hops were only for a split second and I've never seen it do that before. I noticed also sitting at highway speed a couple of times I felt the engine power diminish for a split second and then come ba…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
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After much work, I can finally hand tighten the gland nut. I need a pipe wrench for the last couple turns, but it stops at the point int the picture. Is that correct gap, or should it thighten to the point where the nut is flush? The nut is tore up, but pipe wrench works.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
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So ive been having trouble getting my fuel pump to work when plugged into the wiring harness. So i had to hardwire it straight to the battery with a switch in between. It wasnt a huge priority to fix but i've realized that my fuel gauge doesnt work either so im thinking theres a problem with the back end of the harness. I tested the connectors for the fuel pump that are under the passenger seat and was reading less than half a volt while the car was running. Any suggestions?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I’m having a bit trouble removing my steering rack. I’ve already removed the 4 bolts holding it in and the disconnected the tie rod ends. It’s only stuck on the steering column. Are there bolts holding the steering column to the steering rack? What is a good way to remove the tie rod ends from the steering rack?
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 1 follower
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- 798 views
Can anyone identify this? Since my ‘73 complete restoration is near completion I am going around my ‘70 240Z to see what is the extent of the parts that I will need before starting the restoration process. While checking the front suspension I came across the Front Torsion Tension Strut Rod. I did not recall seeing such cap/cover on a 240Z before. Anyone has an idea if it is OEM, aftermarket or simply not beloning to this car??... Any insights will be much appreciated. Thank you!
Last reply by ZCarFever, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 970 views
It has been a long way from the day I have acquired my ‘73 240Z 12 months ago, to today when I almost see it driving down the road... Thank God I started off with a good and relatively clean car but still maybe I should have just walked into a Porsche dealer and buy a 911 of the shelf for the price... Go figure...? The goal was not to end up with a show car / garage Queen BUT... Z-day minus a week or so of work to install the rebuilt engine and rebuilt 4 speed trans, I realized that my car turned out MUCH better than I have anticipated/expected at the start of this journey, which lead me to meet mostly great people (and a few not too reliable ones) of this community …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 639 views
The Temp/Oil gauge for my 1971 240Z has become wonky. I've cleaned the (yellow) wire's bullet connector to the water temp sender. However, in the same loom, there was a black wire with an unused female spade connector. Does someone know the purpose of this connector and what it should be attached to? Have I broken a circuit to...something?
Last reply by Robert Bohl,
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