Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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About a year ago, my grandmother passed away and she left me her 77 280z that she bought brand new off the showroom floor. It hasn't run for 10 years or so, so my dad and I tried to get it up and running. We emptied out all the old full and put new in, replaced oil, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still wouldn't start. Figured out the pump wasn't pumping. Replaced it, but still nothing. Figured it was a bad relay and couldn't find a replacement. So I ran a switched hot line straight to the pump. It finally turned over and ran! Not well, but it ran. I finally found a new relay, installed it today, and reattached original wiring. Pump still won't turn …
Last reply by Mike, -
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Hi guys! I've got a 1978 280z and after 12 years of sitting the car officially runs again! At this point I'm unsure on the next step between trying to get the car to move under it's own power, or pulling the entire car apart and starting the metal/body work? I'm not sure if it's a smart choice to blow money on stuff I'm just going to redo after I put some systems back in. As it sits the current throttle linkage is like seized in the intake portion that is the piece before the throttle body. Mind you, I have not flushed or replaced the differential, tranny, or radiator fluids. Does anyone have some sort of recommended order of operations for the restora…
Last reply by rturbo 930, -
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- 9 replies
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72 240z. Points were pitted, installed new points and condenser. Static timed it at 0.020" points gap. The car starts and runs. Checked the dwell angle afterwards with my new Innova 5568. Can't set dwell any more than 30 degrees where spec is 35-41. I'm at the end of adjustment range with the eccentric screw in the points oval. Set up engine for TDC compression on #1 cylinder, both its valves are closed, timing cover pointer aligns with 0 notch on crank pulley. Pulled the distributor to check the drive tang. Looks to me like 12:30-6:30. Is this the correct orientation?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
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Ok when my ignition switches to ACC absolutely nothing happens, no lights on the dash, no warning sounds no nothing.The ignition will work in the start position and will crank the starter. I started the car with starter fluid in the intake but would not run, it was only for a second. I bought a new ignition switch after checking the continuity of the different positions and one portion was out. The fuel pump is not pumping gas into the motor to keep it running I believe. I wired the battery to the fuel pump and it did push gas through to the motor so the pump itself works. When I started the car for that second the tachometer did nothing, it actually looks like it is jus…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 followers
- 27 replies
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So I've been fouling spark plugs, my oil smells like gas and I cant figure out the issue... I noticed cylinder 4 5 6 run way richer than 1 2 3 and I turn the fuel down a bit (both run rich) fouling all 6 after about 20 mins of idle I sand blast the plugs and repeat 2 more times and decide to change the oil and no good. I know the carbs are a bit old so I was on my other su carbs that are I'm a lot better shape and now its flipped cylinder 1 2 3 are running super rich and 4 5 6 super lean so I turn down the fuel on the one carb and repeat multiple times but no matter what within minutes they foul it's like the fuel isn't going down at all when I use the fuel adjuster nut..…
Last reply by Datonedatsun, -
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Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating ? idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4
Last reply by redfairladyzee, -
- 3 followers
- 2 replies
- 573 views
I have a 78 280 Z that I have done extensive work on. I want to find a mechanic with Z car experience to check the engine with a computer analysis to fine tune the new engine performance. Does anyone have a recommendation. I live in the Tacoma area, but will travel to farther locations if necessary.
Last reply by S30Driver, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 818 views
Hi everyone, I just had the timing and valve adjustment done to my 1977 280z. I don't know if there's any correlation but my idle has been very inconsistent. Normally, my idle is at a consistent 1100 RPM but lately it's been all over the place. Half of the time it's at 1100 RPM but sometimes it's at 1500-2000 RPM. If I rev the engine on neutral and let off the gas, it sometimes lowers to only 2000 RPM. There was a vacuum leak that the shop fixed when they did the timing and valve adjustment. What could this issue be?
Last reply by BayAreaZ650, -
- 4 followers
- 22 replies
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I rebuilt the head on my 260z. I drove it 100 miles and burned 2 qts of oil. I parked it and started tearing everything apart. I found a snapped head stud in the middle of the block. I couldn't get the bolt out at all so with 13 others how bad can it be?https://youtu.be/Ib9RJ3x2_Rs Please whatever help you can give is tremendous because I don't want to redo what I just did and then also take the engine out and the pistons, rods, and bottom out to give the block to a machine shop. There is 1-2qt from the top of the coolant leaking into the oil only. Not the combustion chamber because the exhaust is fine.
Last reply by youztheclue, -
- 5 followers
- 55 replies
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I have spent the last few days trying to solve my engine problem with no luck so far. The motor has been running for a week with oil pressure that would get higher with engine RPM. I did a search and figured it was the pressure relief in the oil pump. I took the relief out of the oil pump and everything looked good. After reinstalling it, I had the same problem. I then installed a gauge in the oil sensor port and ran it for a while. It started to run at a nice 60 psi. And I thought I had fixed it but at the same time it started to run really rough. And of course really started smoking out the exhaust. I pulled the plugs and all six looked nasty. Black and oily. The fact t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
- 829 views
Hey everyone! This might be a dumb question, but I'm doing my first L28 build and I cannot figure out how to get this radiator fan on for the life of me. It seems to be the pulley assembly and then the fan clutch that goes onto the end of the camshaft. Should be simple, but I cant figure out the order in which they need to be installed. It apparently uses some double threaded screws and some nuts but I just cant seem to get it. SMH.
Last reply by moozieman, -
- 3 followers
- 2 replies
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Hi guys, first time poster here. My car was running beautifully. Just yesterday, i removed the distributor to loan out to my brother. today, upon returning/reinstalling, i messed up and mounted the distributor 180 off. cranked a few times and noticed my mistake. flipped the distributor back and now the car refuse to start. Now I just noticed that the ballast resistor is extremely hot. I removed the wires at the ballast resistors to see if it made any different, nada. touched the wires together, nada. i put the wires back to the resistor and now i just noticed the tach is pegged at 8k. not sure if it was pegged before. Not sure what to do or where to go from here. I…
Last reply by moozieman,
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