Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 955 views
Hi fellow Z enthusiasts, I’ll start off by listing my specs: 1973 240z L24 w/ Triple Webers *all smog pertinent items have been removed/blocked* I had SU’s that crapped out on me about 9-10 months ago so I decided to grab some triple webers as a nice upgrade. The car ran fine when first installed and tuned up. However, after that it sat for a about 4-5 months while I was in another state for work. Current problem: Once started, it does one of two things: 1. Revs high mid 2’s to 3’s 2. Idles fine On throttle Full quick throttle presses: 1. It has an absence where it doesn’t rev at all, almost like there’s a popping. 2. It drops a little Slow throttle presses: …
Last reply by 240260280, -
-
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
Hello everyone, My son and I purchased a 1976 Datsun 280z 2+2 for his first car last month and it will be our father/son project car. With that said, we have been trying very hard to get his car ready for Pennsylvania State inspection on the 8th of May 2019. We have been working hard and have been reading many of the z car forums, watching youtube videos, and reading as much material as we can find. Thanks to all the information out there we have successfully fixed numerous issues, but we still have a few things to go. My son has big dreams for this car but we are trying to make it road worthy right now as all the rubber is old and falling apart. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 2.9k views
I am having a difficult time in removing the rheostat that controls the dash lights in a '78 280Z. I have followed the instructions outlined in the FSM and can't get to it. There must be a better way. The PO had installed a dash cap and I had to remove it and tons of silicone just to remove the tach. Has anyone done this from beneath the dash? Randy
Last reply by jkeese01, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 1.2k views
Hi guys, So I was driving today and somewhere in the rear I started to get a clicking/ratchet type sound when I was coasting out of gear. The sound speeds up and slows down in a 1:1 ratio with the car's speed. It is most evident when I'm going slower and seems to not click as loudly when I am in gear compared to coasting in neutral (but I could be wrong). The sound is not super loud but is very noticeable. I have attached an MP3 of the sound but if that doesn't work, you can hear it here: https://vocaroo.com/i/s0pvF7JKlewZ Any ideas? -chase EDIT: I got it up on stands and spun the rear tires. The clicking seems to be coming from …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 543 views
Vents PCV Crankcase Valve Cover.pdfVents PCV Crankcase Valve Cover.pdfVents PCV Crankcase Valve Cover.pdfCurrently I have the crankcase vent tube disconnected, the valve cover vent has a small filter, and the PCV valve has a rubber cap secured with a clamp. After doing some reading on each, I realized that I should make some changes to ensure that gases are not building up under the hood, foreign material not going into the vents (either ccase or vcover) and that i should protect both from backfire pressures if I connect them to the airfilter and/or to the PCV valve. It seems that having the PCV valve connected to the Crankcase vent is beneficial beacause it has sl…
Last reply by 240z70, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
After last top off gas leak from hose #7 here: https://zcarsource.com/gas-diag. Currently this hose make a big loop down before heading back up, I'm questioning that is correct. I'm replacing the hose tonight and am wondering if it were installed wrong in the past, diagram looks like a fairly level shot. In our case filling up to the point the filler neck has gas in it must also fill this vent line, it started seeping out. I'm thinking of redoing with a more level hose. Wondering what is "correct". BTW, anyone know the ID of this hose?
Last reply by jvandyke, -
- 2 followers
- 18 replies
- 1.5k views
Leaking water pump, possibly the original pump. Searched all the forums, Googled & YouTubed. Used pen oil, heat cycles, shocked the bolts, still 3 of 5 fasteners sheared during gentle removal including both M8 (one at the head and one at the threads) and the long skinny M6 (at the threads). sigh. Looks like to deal with extracting the sheared bolts, need to remove the timing chain cover. Sounds like draining the oil, removing the oil pump. Then can remove the distributor then the timing chain cover. Timing (points ignition) is good right now, want to remove the distributor w/o screwing up the timing. What's the pro method for setting up the engine before remo…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 475 views
In need of at least 2 starter covers for Mikuni carbs. Wondering if anyone has 2 or 3 they're willing to part with? Thanks in advance
Last reply by MD71Z, -
- 7 followers
- 358 replies
- 32.9k views
SORRY - I THOUGHT I WAS LOGGED IN AND POSTED THIS AS A GUEST. ADMIN PLEASE DELETE THE GUEST POST AND USE THIS ONE. Need some help on what to do next, here's the story so far. 1976 280z California edition (manf. date Sept.1975). Bought the car in late Jan. 2019, car passed emissions test and it started and drove fine until 2 weeks ago when problem first occurred. Engine runs very rough for about 1-3 minutes at high RPM when gas pedal is pressed, and exhaust kicks out white-ish / light gray fumes. When gas pedal is released, engine dies, car will not idle. Try to start again and engine cranks but will not start. Let it sit for …
Last reply by mbz, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 889 views
Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
Last reply by Johnny280, -
- 3 followers
- 70 replies
- 6.8k views
Hello Z family, ***Disclaimer I am completely new to the older Z world. I have an 03, 08 nismo now the papa 240z. *** I purchased the Z feom BaT. Car started and drove perfectly. Under throttle and idle. It had a straight 3" exhaust and I could not take the "noise". I swapped the headers and exhaust for the Zstory system. Header through to the twin muffler. I took the car out for a drive and giving it throttle it starts to cut out around 5k and then shuts down. I restart and the same thing. When I first got the car home I was driving around town 30+ miles. Car shows Breakfast cruising. Loud cruises. But no issues at all. Cars fuel level would be ab…
Last reply by NA&CH, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
- 1.7k views
I'm working on doing a brake fluid flush on my 1977 280z. I just finished bleeding the master cylinder and I went to the rear drums next. When my fiance pumped the brakes and held down the brake, I noticed that the line right below the hole to drain the fluid is leaking. It was never leaking before until now. It seems to be leaking right before the nut which attached to the drum. How can I stop this leak?
Last reply by siteunseen,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Yarb
