Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
Well I just finished lowering my car(71Z) w/ tokico springs and struts,replaced all my bushings w/urethane and put new wheels and tires on it.Now, what I thought would be the easiest thing to do ,bleeding the brakes is giving me a hard time.I've bled them ,till I only get fluid out of the bleed ports but,my pedal still goes to the floor.Is my Master cylinder bad?It's not leaking externally.:dead: :dead:
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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- 3 replies
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All i wanted to do was bleed the Clutch, and this is what happend. I noticed on my way home that the clutch was not engagine easily, hard shifting etc. Also while the clutch was depressed and the car in put in reverse, i can feel grinding as the trans engages. After my unsatisfactory effort to bleed the system( I had my daughter depress the clutch slowly as i opend and closed the bleeder nut) I attempted to start the car while in reverse and the clutch depressed, and WHAM!!! I'm going backward!!!! The same thing happens when i put it in first gear and try to start. My salution.....The car is so light i get it started even though i am in 1st gear the whole time!!! so i…
Last reply by ZcarsRock, -
i have a 72'240z. my seat belt looks like stuck already. i can't pull it out today. i dont know what to do with it. is there any z-car seat belt that will bolt on easily to a 72 240z inluding the seat belt sensor connector? please let me know i am planning to replace my belt with a later models. thanks.
Last reply by hf240z, -
- 3 replies
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About 2 months ago my dad bought me a 1970 240z from one of his employees. The owner had it for atleast 20 years and he said the guy before him also just had it sitting So we go to pick it up and bring it back to our house. We quickly take all the extra parts out of the interior and pop the hood. We replace the battery and spark plugs and get the fuel coming from a jerry can (we wern't sure how rusted the gas tank was). A little bit of noise and brrrum the engine starts and is purring like a kitten. The spedometer reads 26249. I don't know how to tell if its 120 or just 20 but the spark wires and etc where stock. Two months go by and i have it taken down to its …
Last reply by Z-point, -
- 3 replies
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Hello, ok i finnally got emough time off work to check and play around, anyays, there is good spark. and it's now running on 4 cylinders, 1-2-3-4 are running now, 4 just started today got it on teh road legally now, but not dribving it till this is working, anyways coudl it be stuck valves i got some rislone in there today and let it run a bit, now i got one more cylinder working, i was told that runing the engine, while only 4 of the cylinders are running the other two, the oil in them will be washed away by the gas that isn't geting burnt up is htis true, thanks
Last reply by New_BE, -
won't start 1 2
by Marshall- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
I've got an early 260z (dec 73 manufacture date) that will not crank. I've owned the car less than a year and don't know much about its history. I'm sure its getting gas because I have glass fuel filter cartridges and can see the gas moving. I pulled a spark plug wire, inserted a screwdriver and held it near the block while someone cranked it to see if I was getting an arc. No spark. So I checked my ignition coil which is a high output Mallory coil. My ohm meter showed that it was resistive. So I took it to Autozone because they advertise that they can test it for free. Well they couldn't. Neither could NAPA. So how do you know if your coil is good or bad? So then I thoug…
Last reply by Marshall, -
- 6 replies
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Hi, there again, lately my car has been smellin like gas bad, i did a search, and found out that the gas lines or somethignlike that is in the car at one point or something, anyways, so i figure i will replace teh lines probrally should be done anyways on this old car. Cani just call and auto part store and ask for some fuel lines, or do they have to be certain ones for this car??? Also i am smellin exaust while i drive mainly at higher speeds, but i need to get rid of this, it's not healthy and it's kinda embarassin when u have a nice arse car but it stinks to ride in it.. anyways thanks guys
Last reply by Son_of_Z, -
- 4 replies
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it started when i saw sparks coming out of my light switch at the base....i have been currently driving without my steering column covers so my light and signal switches are exposed...i started my car and it was fine, then as i turn the light switch to the first click(park lamps) it was fine, as i go on to turn the lights on there were sparks at the base of the light switch where the wires are soldered...right where you see the soldering joints is where sparks came out and then the engine would die... i turned the lights switch off and started my car again and it started, then as soon as i turn my lights on sparks again and the car dies....this time i tried to start it a…
Last reply by billcapp, -
- 17 replies
- 2.6k views
Heres my issue, i try to get my car to break loose on a favorate patch of asphault near my home(farm country, little traffic) I rev the engine in 1st gear to about 5200rpms, then let out the clutch, there is no peeling out, no grab, just a slight whif of burning rubber(from the clutch?) and the car eases forward slowley at first then i feel it grab and i'm off. The car in 4th gear sometimes experiences an increase in rpm's with no increase in gas pedal pressure. Do i need a clutch? should i get a new fly wheel also? what about the dual friction clutches i hear about? Thanks for your help. Tony
Last reply by smg1404, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
I need some suggestions. I'm replacing my Radiator on my 78 280Z cause it's leaking bad. I was doing well in the process of removing my radiator out so I decided that I may as well replace my water pump while I'm at it. As I was removing the bolts that hold the water pump to the engine block, I turned one of two of the bigger size bolts on the bottom of the water pump and it Broke. leaving almost an inch of the end of the bolt inside the block. Any of you guys ever had this happen to them? Please give me some advice. I will attempt to drill it out but scared I might do more damage than repair. Maybe I should just leave it there. What do you guys think.
Last reply by DakotaZ, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
HELP….. I was over hauling the fuel system of my 73 Z to clean out all the metal lines, replace all the rubber hoses and change all the gas filters. This Z has been sitting in a garage for the 12 years and the tank was dry. . I pulled the electric fuel pump out and changed the filter and I bench tested the unit. The pump seams to be working fine, it pumped a good amount at a good pressure. I re-installed it and was trying to get it to pump enough fuel from the tank to fill the fuel system. I tried this by turning the keys to ACC and even tried to crank the engine but the electric pump would not pump. I traced the power from the ignation to the the inline fuse (black and…
Last reply by Zedrally, -
I just finished flushing and changing the engine and tranny oil. I used Slick 50 in the engine and the best synthetic oil i could find(Castrol Syntex) I used gear oil and Lucas oil stabalizer for the transmission. So I'm on the road in town and i find my self first at the traffec light when a guy in a little Honda Prelude pulls up. He is with his girl and is revving his engine(four cylinder with the big fat goofy exhaust tip) So, i figure, ok, GAME ON!!! The light turns gree and i pop the clutch...(slower than i usually do) but we are neck and neck then it happens, i hear a back fire and my car slows down...he pulls ahead and i'm pissed...i notice this happening …
Last reply by zorro,
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