Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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Working on my new-to-me 72 240z today. Successfully replaced the right side steering rack accordian boot today. Started on the left side boot. The jam nut refuses to back off, threatening to round off the nut points. On the right side, the jam nut has a right hand thread. On the left side, is the jam nut rotation direction reversed, as in a left hand thread? Thanks!
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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- 2 followers
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Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of the current situation. Especially the wrong plumming of the servo diaphragm and c…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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- 11 replies
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My 74 260z has dual Weber 32/36dgav with emissions and mechanical fuel pump delete. Car runs good at idle and on throttle. The problem is cruising around at a constant speed it has a "mis"/bubble spot the it seems a cylinder isn't firing. I have new plugs wires and distributor cap and rotor. I noticed taking off the plugs the NGK caps for the wire connection unscrewed itself from the porcelain.(possible fix) The cylinder 6 has a dark plug but the rest are a dusty clean grey. The cylinder 6 exhaust bolt is snapped in the block and definitely has a leak. Brand new fuel filter put in last week. I also have never owned a carb car before so my tune is iffy and I'm going to loo…
Last reply by youztheclue, -
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- 2 followers
- 32 replies
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Hi everyone! So over the past year and a half I have torn my 1974 260z with an L28 and flat top carbs down to it's rusty britches and done my best to get her nice and shiny. This is my first project car, so I probably have no idea what i'm talking about. However, I have not been able to get the car to start and I am pretty stumped, even though the car ran when I bought it. FYI, I did disassemble the engine, clean it up, refresh it with new timing stuffs etc, and put it back together citing the FSM almost religiously. I also have been wiring the car myself using the speedway 22 circuit harness + some custom over engineering bits. So far: Brand new battery …
Last reply by CaptainMajestic, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 2k views
I'm confused about where a hose goes or if I got the wrong hose for my tank. The attached 3 pictures showing the hose, an illustration of the hoses (I think this is hose #5), and a photo of my tank with the connector circled. I think this is the right hose for this connector but the hose diameter is <1/2 inch and the tank port is maybe 5/8th inch. Where should this hose actually go? My car is a Jan' 74 260z.
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 680 views
A buddy is looking for sources for 240Z bumper trim. I've located one source at Z Car Depot (link below), any other leads? Thanks. https://zcardepot.com/collections/exterior/products/bumper-rubber-trim-moulding-240z#
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
1976 280z rough idle then dies.
by Guest mbz- 1 follower
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Need some help on what to do next, here's the story so far. 1976 280z California edition (manf. date Sept.1975). Bought the car in late Jan. 2019, car passed emissions test and it started and drove fine until 2 weeks ago when problem first occurred. Engine runs very rough for about 1-3 minutes at high RPM when gas pedal is pressed, and exhaust kicks out white-ish / light gray fumes. When gas pedal is released, engine dies, car will not idle. Try to start again and engine cranks but will not start. Let it sit for 1-2 hours and it will start again, same as above. Makes me think it is flooded with gas and needs to sit before it will start a…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 9 replies
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I have yet another question for the gurus in this forum. I pulled my transmission to replace all seals/orings and found what seems to be "a lot" of play in the input shaft. My semi-accurate measurement technique shows around 0.045" of play back and forth. Is this normal. None of the manuals I have give any sort of measurement on this. The car has 125K miles on it. Thanks!
Last reply by Zaspen, -
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
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I'm in the process of converting my 72 240 from a 4 barrel holley back to SUs. I've read numerous articles on the pros and cons of heating the manifold and I think since I live in New Hampshire where every morning is cold I want to heat them. Ideally I would have the manifold heater thermostat that was used on the later 72 models and beyond to avoid the potential issues with continually heating them. Anybody know where I can get a thermostat and the associated piping? I'd like to think I could get an old one to work again with some TLC. I found a part number in a different forum for a possible alternate but it looks like it is no longer available. Any thoughts / ide…
Last reply by Zaspen, -
- 1 follower
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Took the white 70 for some exercise. Developed an exhaust leak (loud). Found the cause....she’s missing a bolt (plug) from her early exhaust manifold. Anyone know the thread size of this item, or better jet do they have one they could spare? Thanks Guy
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 4 followers
- 35 replies
- 9.2k views
I just got my rear hubs back from the shop and the guy threw out all my old bears "because they were shot." I got the distance bearings, usually referred to as spacers here, back but he only saved one of the four copper shim washers. They are part number 43211-N3400 and go between the bearings and either end of the distance bearing. Any chance someone has a line on these? I need three. Looks like this:
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 720 views
I could use advice: The Subaru r180 diff I am cleaning up seams to have something like plumbers putty on the bolts that hold the side covers on where the axles enter the case. I’ve never seen this before. Is this to keep oil from leaking out from around those bolts? Does anyone know what this stuff is and if I can get it at an auto parts store? I’d like to do this as correctly as I can. Thanks.
Last reply by Matthew Abate,
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