Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Hi guys im wondering if any of you know the function of the metal bracket that is held in by the oil pan bolts on the driver side? It has a metal heat shield or something that is attached on the bracket. Im currently trying to fit my header on but the heat shield is in the way. Is it okay to remove it? any use for it? thanks for any help
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 998 views
I'm working on my 12-'74 260z. the side door windows have everything I have seen online except the "Window Glass Roller Bumper Guide". This is just for the side to side movement and rattling. my problem is the front to back alignment when rolling up my window where i have to walk it back and forth with my hands on the top of the glass to make it roll up smoothly. I know I have to buy this part, but will it help me with my issue as well?
Last reply by youztheclue, -
- 4 followers
- 49 replies
- 6.1k views
My ebrake light shows a little dim on the speedometer when the ebrake is off. Where should i check? It must be a bad ground somewhere.
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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I just got all excited and ordered an E12-80 dizzy for my 240z. Problem is, I didn't check if it had the mount...it doesn't. Could anyone help? If you have a mount or a lock plate, I would really appreciate it. At present my 240 has no spark. It had a broken vacuum advance but ran (horribly). After messing with the points distributor I get no spark at all. So now I'm trying for an E12-80 swap. Anybody have the 280zx mounting plate or lock plate? It's the one in the right in the picture above.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
- 2.2k views
74 (early) 260Z, It turns over fine and will fire when started is engaged. As soon as the key is released it dies. I heard this may be the ballast resistor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I need to get this car winterized, but must get it to run again, before that happens.
Last reply by Jeff Z, -
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- 4 replies
- 727 views
Hi mates This afternoon I took the throttle body of the Z to get rid of the BCDD - it hasn't worked since I bought the car and I got a block off plate for Christmas. Took everything part and cleaned with engine degreaser, water and then blow dry with air. (I don't have a TPS I use aftermarket EFI so there are no sensors on the TB). I left it out for about an hour to let it dry even more. Put everything back together - I used RTV sealant on the block off plate and have a new gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. I noticed the idle screw was in as far as it could - the throttle body was as shut as it could be. Start the car and the damn thing goes t…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 973 views
Recently purchased a 72 that was partially assembled. Steering column was removed intact I thought but what I did not notice was the lower rag arm INSIDE the column was missing. Can I replace this or is this column shot?
Last reply by Tvzdude72, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 3.1k views
I have been working on my 280z for a while. I got it to the point where it was able to be driven, and once it hits 3000 rpm it acts as if it's banging the limiter. It idles and revs above 3000 rpm easily but once it comes to driving it just won't. Has very new distributor rotor and cap (2 months or less) and new spark plugs and wires. Motor was very recently rebuilt and has no more than 20,000 miles. Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
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Hi team! I'm a new Z owner. First carbureted car and I'm here to learn (wife thinks it is a midlife crisis). My issue is the car starts (with choke) and idles fine as it warms up (choke off). I have a somewhat lumpy cam, which seems to like the idle at 1,000 rpm. Once fully warm after driving around, the car will slowly lose idle and fade to a stall when stopped at a light. Otherwise, runs well other than a minor amount of dieseling when I turn off the ignition. I'm stumped. I've tinkered with the carbs and have used a Colourtune to try to perfect fuel mixture. The only issue noticed during tuning is this: when doing the standard lifting of a piston to shut one …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 11 replies
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My tank leaks. Not sure if i will be able to get it fixed or if i have to have one built. History: current tank is aluminum rectangle type custom with no sending unit. whether i fix or build i want sending unit. but from what i have heard the 1970 240z sending is 90-10 ohms. Problems: 1-Tank does not have sender so hence no sender retainer to attach the retaining ring for use with the original sender. 2-cant find a retainer to weld to the tank so that the original sender can be used. 3-Might not have enough room for fuel sender arm and may have to use vertical; tube or uncovered. 4-all aftermarket ones are 0-90 or 70-10 or some other ohms but no…
Last reply by 240z70, -
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- 8 replies
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I installed 260 doors on my 240 I have found that the 240 regulator does not fit I purchased 280 regulators they do not fit does the 260 have its own regulator?
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 1 follower
- 19 replies
- 6k views
I am trying to find a good replacement for the gas tank drank plug and washer. Does anyone know where to get them? My washer is disintegrated and the bolt has a slow leak and I am not even sure it’s the correct plug. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by AZDatsun,
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