Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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i’m having this issue where the car falls on her face at 3500-4000 rpm. plugs, points,wires, cap, condenser are all new. Timing is at about 15-20 degrees at 1100 rpm, I wanted to retard it to 10 degrees or lower but the the dist. has no more range left to turn. Car revs freely under no load. any help would be great! thx!
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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Hi everyone, I’ve gone through the forums, google, books, etc. and frustrated. Needing help on how to go about this no oil pressure at the gauge. It is a 1982 L28 from a 280zx in a 1973 240z. Oil pump is brand new. What I’ve done: -filled oil filter with oil -oil pan is at the full mark from dipstick -primed pump both with oil and also assembly lube. Removed spark plugs and coil wire. Cranked engine with starter several time at 20 second bursts-nothing -replaced oil pressure sending unit-nothing -removed oil pump spindle to distributor and reinstalled oil pump, used a bit to spin the pump counter clock wise through the distributor with …
Last reply by Thekvr, -
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Hey guys so I just smoged my 78' 280z. It failed the guy told me it was running rich everything else is ok. Idk what it could be I was thinking maybe a bad sensor? I'll post a picture of the results and idk you guys tell me what I should look at and what I might need to replace. The car starts and idles around 1000-1200 rpms than after it warms it settles down to 700-800. I did notice when I change gears maybe from 2 to 3 it does a little extra push on the gas. Idk what do you guys think?
Last reply by charliekwin, -
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So my painter was supposed to scan the paint before they finished the sandblasting, but they didn’t do it, so now he’s asking me to find out what formula he should use while he tries to figure it out on his end. The car was 918 originally, but the several threads I’ve found about that paint are inconclusive. I remember seeing someone say they figured out the right formula so it doesn’t end up dark sludgy orange brown and comes out the right spicy orange that it’s supposed to be. If anyone can point me to the right threads or just tell me what I should tell the painter I would appreciate it. So far the only advice I have found is "get the leaded PPG formula,…
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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I’ve had to take part in my fenders on my car and is doing so I found out that a lot of my bolts washers lockwashers are either pretty worn and I had to pry out with the vice grip and destroyed them——I’m wondering if it’s best that I just go to my local hardware shop and buy the ones I need OR I have seen kits sold from different websites. Can anyone tell me what they think and if buying the kit which website I should choose to purchase them from? Thanks in advance
Last reply by Dude, -
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Just curious here Got a nice Earls stainless clutch hose form MSA just wished it had a 19MM end on the side that goes into the frame bracket but it has 11/16" so a bit too loose Has anyone used something from say a Mazda RX 7 or Toyota just wondering if anything crosses not that i cant use it just wondering if someone has found a better fit thanks in advance
Last reply by pontiacguy, -
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Ladies and gents, I have once more come to you for your assistance. I have a restored 1971 240Z and the original carb pre-heater duct hose (the hose that travels from the manifold to the underside of the orange air cleaner to pre-heat the air for the carbs in colder weather) has ripped and is on its way to total disintegration. Where do I get a replacement for this hose ? Thanks in advance for your guidance. Hank
Last reply by Hank240, -
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- 1 reply
- 782 views
Working on my console again. Found what I thought is the spring for my ash tray door. Can someone send a picture of the spring installed. Do these springs look correct? 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I was hoping someone on here can help me resolve my idling problem. So this engine was recently brought back to life (sat for many years) and now I’m trying to get it running properly. Here is what has been done up to this point, 1. New plugs and wires 2. Valve adjustment 3. New thermal vacuum valve 4. New AFM boot 5. New PCV 6. New Oil Pump 7. New fuel injectors 8, new fuel filter 9. Cleaned and resealed fuel tank 10. Replaced ECU and fuel pump relay So here is how the engine runs. It starts up easily and right away with no hesitation. Once stated and foot off throttle it idles very roughly at about …
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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Looking for the following parts or advise from those that have barked up the tree! I have too much free travel in my clutch to allow me to adjust the clutch. The bolt that holds the pedal in place and creates the fulcrum (p/n 46561-21000) and the sleeve that fits over the bolt (p/n 46582-21000) are nla....trying a work around with a bolt I picked up, but it is still not the proper diameter and causes too much free play. Any advice is appreciated. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by David F, -
- 3 followers
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I am not a pro mechanic, I started on this project z ‘75 280z fuel injected. I changed all the gaskets and realized I needed new fuel injectors. I pulled them and changed them. I didnt relieve the pressure by disconnecting the line and letting the pump pump it out. I leaked some fuel and relieved the pressure that way. I replaced everything and put the car back together when i went to turn it on it wouldnt turn on. It cranks and if i give it gas it tries to turn on but wont stay on. I think i have spark. When i have the key in the on position i can hear the fuel pump working. My gas tank currently has under a quarter of gas. And before i change all the spark plugs and wir…
Last reply by Spikzsta, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
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I need some help figuring out whether or not my engine block is cleaned enough for the head to be reinstalled back on the engine block. I tried pretty much what i can to prep the surface of the engine block and just need some help with those who already went through this install. So far i got most of the old gasket gunk off but there are some spots here and there that still remain. I have some acetone ready to use in hopes of removing some of the left over material. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Last reply by fairladyz432,
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