Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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I'm in the process of replacing the head gasket on my 77' 280. I've disconnected everything touching the head, pulled the exhaust an intake manifolds, got the wood shim on the timing chain placed, cam sprocket if off, removed the 14 head bolts in the proper order along with the two front 10mm bolts. The head won't budge. I've tried putting a breaker bar in the intake and no luck. I'm trying not to go neanderthal. Is there something I'm missing? Let me add that there is evidence of prior work done with the exhaust manifold judging by the amount of red sealant and mismatched bolts holding it on (that's another story). So I think it is safe to say the head has be…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 5 replies
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Hello you all.. Last month i found a set of rear 240z lights, i know they came from a lot i bought years ago from a Belgian, and he told me they came from France.. At first i didn't see it but then... The upper part is red en the lower is orange! No white light for the reverse lights! My question: Is this a very early type or is this typically French ? Maybe @Sean Dezart can help? Thanks in advance! Mart
Last reply by Martzedcars, -
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For those who have done this before I am replacing the rear hatch seals on two of my Series 1 cars as a first step to try to elimate some of the exhaust fumes coming in the cabain./ Do I need to remove the interior trim to replace the hatch seal? Is it easier with the hatch taken off? Many thanks for the help.
Last reply by loudoun, -
- 3 followers
- 53 replies
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Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too much power like he had said (taken with a grain of salt). What are the chances that…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
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We have a 1978 280Z all original with only 54000 miles. Runs and idles just fine, starts fine and restarts just fine. You can drive it but once you get up to about 3000RPM the engine starts to cut out and you have to back off the gas. Below 3000 it's just ok enough to get it back home. I ran tests on the AFM and found that is was bad so that was replaced, we replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and PCV valve. I also have a gauge on the fuel line and we have prefect fuel pressure. I have gone to the Datsun Bible and started running other tests and a few that I found a little off was the one that OHMs should be 150 and they are at 170. Also, and I don'…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 reply
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anyone know what the difference is between the trans neutral and back-up light switches? this is for a 1972 car thanks all sb
Last reply by S30Driver, -
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- 8 replies
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Hello everyone. I'm new to this forum. I bought a 77 280z with the stock l28. The guy I bought it from installed a megasquirt2 in the car. I got the car started and idling. Was wondering if anyone has a good map for the stock l28 NA for the 280z
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.1k views
car sat for three years, rebuilt engine/cleaned all grounds/ idles like crap and no power in drive
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 4 replies
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I messed up while fooling with my timing, I sheared the head of the timing adjustment screw. I’m going to need to remove the distributor in order to get out the old screw. This is a new one for me and I need to get it right. Questions: Am I right that the main adjustment screw that I broke is the only one I need to remove to pull the distributor? If I mark the position of the distributor is there anything else, I need to do to insure is positioned correctly to put it back in place? Does anyone know what size replacement screw/bolt I need? The head was 10mm but I have no idea what the shaft size and thread pitch was. …
Last reply by sdyck, -
- 1 follower
- 20 replies
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Hello, everyone. I've got a '76 280z that I've taken on as a second car. I bought it earlier in the year, and it ran like a champ. I drove it home from Temecula, CA to San Bernardino, CA. Same day, no problem. Problems started when I went to change the plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and old vacuum and fuel lines before taking on the smog test. Turns out the BCDD was disconnected and lines running to and away from it had been blocked off. So of course, I reconnected them and since then, the car is not a fan of smooth idling. Idle starts out at about 1k, and it quickly drops down to 500 rpms and even lower at times. After I turn the car off, or if it dies. I'll hear a…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 938 views
I want to put my 1971 4 speed in my 1973 Z. The 73 has a neutral switch on the top of the trans and the 71 does not. How do I bypass the switch? Do I just jump the two wires to the switch?
Last reply by depair, -
- 2 followers
- 53 replies
- 7.3k views
I have a '73 240z with automatic transmission and original L24 engine. I put it in the shop as soon as I bought it, as it needed all new brake line and master brake cylinder. I also had them put in a new flexplate, as mine was missing quite a few teeth. Add a new started. When I got the car back, I pulled the SU carbs off ( the PO said they were off a '72) and cleaned them. Placed 3-in-1 oil in the dampers, replaced spark plugs with NGK 6ES. Adjusted carbs with a flow meter and adjusted the mixture screws. Even put in a new in-line fuel filter under the hood. I turn the engine with the choke on and let it run at 1500rpms for a few minutes before taking off. It usually idl…
Last reply by Mark Maras,
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