Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Voltage Drop 1 2 3 4 5
by DoubleYOOHZ- 1 follower
- 54 replies
- 10.6k views
Hello Classic enthusiasts. My 1977 datsun 280z car is almost up and running. The problem is a little hard to describe. I replaced the battery and the car ran fine. I notice the car started to lose cranking power after 8ish car start ups. Around this time, the car would struggle to crank. I charged the battery right up and the cranks beautifully. At first, I thought my alternator is not charging my battery (which seems to be the case). I went through the "Alternator not powering battery" thread and could not assess my situation. I did some testings on my car with a multimeter and found some questionable data. From the battery, Trial #1 12.6v - Engine Off…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 1 reply
- 1k views
Would anyone have one of these for the passenger seat ? I need it pretty fast. Thank you very much.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.7k views
I've been searching and reading through here for hours and hour and can't find what I'm looking for. I'm wondering if 16x8.25" wheels will fit on my stock 73 240z? The rims have zero offset with 4.63" backspace. If they will work what size tire should I use, I don't want the stretched tire look and don't want it to rub. All I'm finding in the search is 16x8 not 16x8.25, and maybe that's not enough to worry about, but I'm also concerned if the backspacing will be ok. Any help I could get would be much appreciated! These are the wheels I'm talking about..... http://www.nlmotoring.com/XXR-530-Wheels-16x8-25-Flat-Black-p/53068462.htm
Last reply by orangething, -
- 3 followers
- 27 replies
- 8.4k views
Hello Zs, My car is now running again. It is a 1977 datsun 280z. Here in california, there are some questionable smog laws. It was sitting non op but I was able to get a temporary vehicle moving papers. I ran over to get my car smogged at one of the local shops. In the initial visual inspection, it had failed. It had aftermarket headers along with missing EGRs. The owner that I purchased this from said it was bone stock besides the removal of the catalytic converter (he turned it into a straight pipe) with new exhaust. I was completely dumbfounded... I want to daily this vehicle. Would it be just as simple as removing the headers and installing a EGR system? I dont…
Last reply by darom, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.6k views
This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.
Last reply by orangething, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 995 views
Almost done my suspension rebuild, but I'm halving problems fitting the 4 outer half shaft bolts. I bought new nuts and bolts and It seems they are a tapered or friction fit. I panted the flanges with por 15 and it may be causing problems as the bolts seem very tight. If I file off the paint how hard should they be to drive in? Thanks, Steve
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 19 replies
- 10k views
I need help figuring out the distributor. I have a 1972 240z stock motor (head and block). This is the first time ive owned a car with a distributor so im not too familiar with them. Is this the right numbering for the wires? I numbered it this way based on the firing order givin in the manual. I did not change any of the wires, so this is how the previous owner left it. Also to confirm, this is the right firing sequence? Is this the adjustment i use when timing with the light? Or is this the adjustment and if not what is this used for?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
tab came loose on rad. can it be glued? otherwise i have to remove it for shop to repair it. radiator 1 2 3
by zhead240- 1 follower
- 27 replies
- 2.9k views
Last reply by Freez74, -
- 21 replies
- 3.7k views
Hi, I'm putting my rear suspension back together after changing bushings and struts. I can't find a picture in my file or on the net that shows how far you drive in the spindle pin lock bolt. Does it get driven in flush with the top of the hole? I thought maybe the torque setting would be enoug to draw it down to the right level, but the torque is lnly listed as 7-9 ft/lbs. Thanks, Steve
Last reply by Zed Head, -
Bouncing MPH? 1 2
by Pomorza- 22 replies
- 6.6k views
Hello all Ok so this past weekend I took my Z out for a nice ride. As I live in Tucson and only really drive to school and back on week days I rarely ever really get it going over 35. Well yesterday I had it going a "bit" faster. While cruising back home I noticed that my speedometer bounces at 45mph. Most of my drive was on some nice long and twisty mountain roads so I wasn't really pay attention to the speedometer as much as the road and thus I didn't notice if was occurring at higher speed. Has anyone had this problem? I run REDLINE MT-90 in the transmission and RL 75w90 in the rear. Any help would be great Jan
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 1.5k views
The engine compartment in my 70 Z was treated to a less-than-stellar, engine-in re-spray by the PO when the main bodywork was painted. Incomplete coverage, quick-and-dirty masking. I'm hoping to remedy that, but I'd like to get some opinions on how to go about it. Here's where things stand at the moment: Engine is still in the car, but completely stripped. Only the block, head, valve cover, timing cover and oil pan are still in place. Exhaust downpipe still attached to the main pipe. Just hanging in open space. Could be removed, I suppose, if it helps with paint gun clearance. Firewall, fender aprons, and rad bulkhead stripped pretty much clean of…
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 7.9k views
So I have combed the manual, and while I am sure its clear there for you guys I am not confident I have the following torque specs and sequence correct. I am wanting to know how to torque the rear control arm bushings, and what sequence it should be done in to reduce squeaking and unintended performance. Specifically: 1) the two bolts on the Front differential support cross member surrounding the bushing 2) the end bolt on the control arm facing the front of the car (by the front diff support) 3) the end bolt on the control arm facing the back of the car (by the rear traverse link mount) 3) the two bolts, long and short sandwiching the lower control arm …
Last reply by Careless,
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