Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Dash lights blow fuse 1 2 3 4 5
by surfsnake2- 1 follower
- 49 replies
- 6.6k views
Whenever i turn my dash and parking lights on, if I leave it for about 15 seconds, the fuse will blow. What I have done so far that has not worked: Disconnected all of the lights on the exterior of the car one at a time. Swapped out the dimmer switch. Unplugged the cigarette lighter/under dash light. Unplugged the glove box light. Unplugged the clock, fuel and oil gauge lights. Took apart the combo switch, cleaned/sanded the contact points. -------- I have not been able to unplug the speedometer light or the tach light. I found out that if i unplug the dimmer switch, or turn the dimmer switch all the way down to off, the …
Last reply by surfsnake2, -
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76 Locking Gas Cap 1 2 3 4 7
by Mark Maras- 2 followers
- 72 replies
- 8.4k views
RedBird is having a bit of trouble with the new system so i'm asking for her. She is in need of a locking gas cap for RB, a 76 280 ASAP. Does anyone know if anything is available cheap and quick? It appears that Stant doesn't make one for the 76. What years are compatible with the 76? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Mark
Last reply by zKars, -
- 25 replies
- 3.5k views
For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spark issue because its getting flooded so it only happens the first time, however, …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 15.1k views
Have developed a transmission fluid leak out of the rear of transmission. The oil has sprayed over the bottom of the car from the area of the rear seal on back to the rear. Had experienced this last year and successfully replaced the old seal with a new one. At the time the old seal (although pitted) came right out and the new one went right in. This time things have not gone as well. When trying to remove the old seal this time I found it to be almost fused in place and needed to use a needle nose pliers and a metal pick to try and pull the seal apart. At this time only pieces of the seal have been removed and have damaged the metal ring that the seal seats…
Last reply by DaveR, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 2.9k views
My son purchased a 1978 280z. He is 17 and not a mechanic. Of course we have a mechanic; however, he is younger than the car. The Z was sold to my son. It was in a barn for approximately 10 years. My mechanic is honest; however, this vehicle is challenging. At this point and time, the vehicle starts and shuts off after minutes. The cold start valve has been replaced among other things. At this point we are working on the ignition coil and a part that cannot be identified, I read post and yet have not located this part to purchase. Please let me know if you know what it is. I have heard distributor condenser, ignition capacitor...at this time it cannot be found…
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 2.6k views
So I'm 16 and I bought a running, no rust, great body 1978 280z about a month ago. The worst part of this car was how bad the dash was cracked. I've stripped the whole interior and have the dash completely off also the dash components. On to the point, I've read other forums about beveling out cracks and putting great stuff foaming sealant. I've done all that, but I ran into a problem. After I sprayed foam into the cracks, the foam didn't seal the whole crack or didn't stick at all. Is there a way to make sure that the foam fills the cracks complete, so when I sand it down, the open cracks won't expose??
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
I am sure I am asking the impossible, but if anyone has an AM/FM 1972 radio Face plate for sale I would be interested in buying it. As rare as they are you would think someone who is talented would be able to reproduce one. Someone somewhere use to make them. Thanks in advance. Don Mcnabb
Last reply by nix240z, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 3.5k views
So I've finally started driving my Z again after about 5 weeks of extensive rehab. Today was her first day to the office and back home... About a mile from my house (on a slower main thoroughfare) the motor suddenly died. Some notes on the modifications that have been made to the car: 1 - The fuel pump shutoff has been bypassed, so the pump will begin to run as soon as the key is switched "ON" and continue to run until the key has been switched "OFF" 2 - The stock fuel rail has been removed in favor of a solid billet-aluminum one with an adjustable FPR that provides a fuel-pressure read-out. 3 - The OEM fuel pump was replaced about 5 years ago with a…
Last reply by KDMatt, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 2.9k views
Hey everyone, I am at my wits end. I have a 1977 280Z with an automatic. The car sat for a little while and now I cant get it started. Here is a list of what is going on: With key in ACC I get fasten seat belt light, buzzer, and voltage light, when key is advanced to ON, I get a click from passenger side and from engine bay passenger side then everything goes out. No gauges work except fuel gauge No interior lights work. Headlights do work, but no tail lights, turn signal lights, or brake lights. Radio does not work I have replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, the ignition switch, the ignition relay, fusible links (will upgrade to…
Last reply by toneatron83-280z, -
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
Am having a hard time tracing down the registration/title for my 280Z with displayed VIN. Any tricks or directions? keeps coming back not identified. Matt
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 42 replies
- 9.6k views
Hey gang, I'm in the middle of changing my valve stem seals tonight, and after a tumultuous battle I've got the keepers back into place on valve #1, cylinder #1, but I can't tell if they're seated correctly. I've never done this before, and I want to make sure I've got this correct before moving on to the rest of the valves. Basically, the keepers are where they belong, but I can still push down on the spring compressor and have the keepers move down the valve, independent of it... but they seem to "catch" at the top, preventing the spring from pushing any further up. This is correct, right? I made a quick video to demonstrate: https://drive.google.co…
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 2 followers
- 56 replies
- 8.1k views
Just finished a complete engine rebuild on my 1975 Datsun 280z (I named her Bonnie) a few days ago. I've owned Bonnie since 11/1/2015, just 6 months now, and began the rebuild the end of November. When I tried to start it, I have absolutely no power in the car, no lights inside, no headlights, no clicking in the ignition, nothing? Hoping I didn't kill Bonnie. Here is what I've done so far; I've cleaned and checked the battery and terminals, all new terminals. Checked for power from positive, the only power I have is to the starter, no power to the alternator or the ignition. I've checked the grounds, all are good, the two bolted to the frame and the one to the bac…
Last reply by Taxelson,
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