Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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Hi everyone, I have just joined the club form the UK, has any one had experience of solex locks on a 240z. I have a 73 240z.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I need to replace a leaking water pump. I also took the radiator out for better access and to get it re-cored at this time. I havent yet gotten to the pump, hope the bolts there are easy to remove, but right now Im just trying to loosen the nuts that hold the fan and fan clutch to the pulley.You can see the nuts in the accompanying pic. The problem is the pulley rotates while I'm trying to get some traction on those nuts and it will just spin. I put the fan belt back , thinking that might slow it down a bit, but it really doesn't. Andy suggestions how to keep the pulley from rotating, or am I doing this wrong?
Last reply by deadflo, -
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Quick question, what is the thread pitch for the wheel lug nuts? Would 12 x 1.25 work? Thanks!
Last reply by northernz, -
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I was excited to purchase my first Z after years of admiring them. I just purchased a 77 280Z with only 10,000 miles on it. I did a full blown tune-up plugs, wires, cap, roter, fuel filter, before I started putting miles on it. I brought it home today, and it started to run rough after it was warmed up. It started backfiring and was running at 500 rpm at idle. I looked around on past posts and noticed quite a few owners have had the same problem. I see quite a few suggestions, but I don't want to start throwing a bunch of parts at it if I can help it. Could anybody give me some solid advice. I see possible solutions as replacing o2 sensors, coolant temp sensors or start…
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
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Hi all, I have a set of old 240Z horns I have had for years. Well I think they came from a 240Z. The problem is they don't have the same mounting bracket that attach to the outer ring like the ones I see in other threads. The mounting brackets use the two some M8 holes to mount to the body, but the bracket attaches to the center post on the horn like the later 280Z. The horns have the original drab green colour. The other thing is they don't have any date stamp. Its blank after the word Date. The last two photos show the difference (front) with the later 280Z horn and the 280Z Date A5 stamped on it. I like the sound of these more than my 280Z horn…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 40 replies
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Hi, i did change my engine lest fall. I had problems with my head one valve was not adjustable anymore so i bought that engine rebuilt from Datsunparts LLC think that was a mistake. The thing is burning oil and i got uneven oil pressure. It runs great pulls hard but burns oil and scarry uneven oil pressure. my other engine use to be dead center on the oil pressure gauge this one goes up and down. and i cannot figure the patern. It is not linked with reving it can be high at low rev and low at high rev and vice versa. complete aleatoire patern. Any body have an idea where to start. Thank`s Jean-P
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Would anyone happen to have one of these anchors, as in pic. I broke mine. I think their interchangeable. Passenger will fit on drivers and vice versa. My drivers side broke. Thank you very much.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 17 replies
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My amp gauge used to stay a little to the positive side when all the lights were on. And it would be right in the middle when the lights were off. Recently the gauge has started to bounce back and forth really fast, almost looks like it's vibrating. The lights are also fluctuating, they go bright then dim, bright then dim. Today with the lights off the gauge was all the way to the right, almost touching the +60 side. It stayed there for about 5 minutes then went back to the middle and started bouncing again. Is it my voltage regulator? As far as I can tell it's as old as the car.
Last reply by jmhtx, -
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Hi. New owner of a '71 240Z in Los Angeles. Looking for recommendations for trustworthy and reliable mechanics near Marina del Rey, Culver City, or West L.A. Also, looking for recommendations for the best gasoline to use for best performance. Thanks in advance for your help!
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 39 replies
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Hi everyone! Long time member here but really my first post! I am in the process of getting ready my old girl (1970 240z) for a longish rally and thought I should probably change the transmission oil.... Any ideas as to what this mystery piece of metal is that I found when draining my 5spd transmission?
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
This topic came up here about two months ago. In fact, I even commented at the time (without much optimism). However, now I have to deal with the reality of my own situation and I'm looking for 'been there / done that' tips from anyone who's managed to accomplish the task successfully without pulling the head and manifold. Issue: the rear-most manifold stud on my L24 engine has been snapped off (not by me!) flush with the face of the cylinder head. The exhaust manifold is still in place, and I'd prefer to leave it there if I can. That means drilling out the stud with a hand drill and working within the confines of the hole in the manifold flange (which is about 0…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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i'm not getting power to my defroster element at the hatch window, but i used to... pulled the 2 plugs at the hatch glass, test light does not light. the 20amp defroster fuse is good. when i turn the defroster switch on, the blue "defroster" indicator lights up the defroster relay makes no "click" when i turn the switch on/off. the defroster relay has a 4-pin plug: 2 pins have constant power (test light lights up between them) when the key is in acc mode, regardless of defroster switch position - i assume this is the power that is supposed to be sent to the defroster elements when the relay is activated by the defroster switch. the othe…
Last reply by rossiz,
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