Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 112 replies
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1972 240Z all stock with a full engine rebuild 4 years ago. I'm about to go crazy on this one. Replaced points/plugs/condenser, have rebuilt carbs/new fuel filter (twice), new plug wires. Plugs burning perfectly across all cylinders. Checked wiring from coil to dizzy, recrimped connections. Cleaned all coil contacts. Here's what happens. Some days it will start up perfectly, pull great, I drive it for an hour on back roads. It's perfect, pulls hard and fast. Idles great. The world is good. Park it for an hour, start it up and it's like the engine has lost its mind. Won't accelerate, bucks, bounces, and just will not run. I can barely limp home. Swear at it, …
Last reply by gundee, -
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Hi everyone, My '78 has been running too rich to pass smog. I've already gone through and replaced the coolant temp sensor, added a thermostat (a PO had removed it), replaced filters and plugs, replaced a few dodgy looking connections and tested fuel pressure. It seems better, but by my highly-unscientific smell test (and headaches I get if I leave it running for too long) I think it still needs work. This morning, I ran through the whole list of tests for high CO in The Bible. I think I may have found my culprit! The throttle valve switch test failed. Any pressure on the throttle showed continuity between pins 3 and 18, which should only happen at WOT. I po…
Last reply by charliekwin, -
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It is from a 280zx w N42 Block Diameter is 89.4mm Squished height is 1.04mm I can faintly see 12 NR Z embosed between the timing chain hole and cylinder #1 The oil seal is copper. Sealing rings are steel. Seems like some faint baby blue colours I am guessing NRZ is Nippon-Reinz?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
I was messing with the 73 we have and trying to get it running again with my son. The brake booster was out and disassembled we patched it and reassembled it. Tried to start the car but no spark. I believe I have fuel and I shot some ether to it so I don't think fueling is the main issue right now. Tried to ground a plug on the valve cover, no spark Tried to ground the coil lead, no spark Checked voltage at the coil, I have voltage at the coil but am not sure what I want exactly 12v on both sides of the coil I believe, 12v on one side of the ballast, lower on the other side Check continuity to ground from the spade on the outside of the dizzy, good Continuity ba…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 1 reply
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Hi everyone Does anyone have a spare R180 diff cover they can sell me? I need it lickety split - I'm in SoCal ... I didn't notice there was some crap on my fill plug, I went to tighten it last night, and cracked the cover ... Let me know? Thank you -e
Last reply by EricB, -
- 3 followers
- 83 replies
- 7.1k views
Heres a confusing one,at least it is for me. I have a 77 Z that I drive daily. 4 days ago it died on me. It started up again after a couple of minutes,but died again a few minutes later.Long story shortened...In the last 4 days, I have replaced coil,EFI combo relay,and cleaned and checked every elec. connection I could find. I still have same problem. Car will idle indefinitly,but will only drive for about 15 minutes at best.and then dies. It will start again after a minute or so.Ime beginning to suspect that it might be the TIS on the passenger side behind blower motor. Any body have any ideas? I know those trans. ignition systems arent suppossed to go bad all that often…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I am on the look out for a 74 1/2 to 76 back bumper in very good condition. I know a lot of you 280 owners are replacing your big ugly and heave bumpers for the lighter look of a 240 bumper. I was wondering if any of you might have a very good one to sell or get rid of? thanks.
Last reply by mgood, -
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- 980 views
figured it out.
Last reply by Rif, -
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Hello everyone. Before I put the dash in, I wanted to do the HVAC system. As usual everything is scattered and I have no hardware. My questions: -Bolt sizes for the Heater and A/C system? -Can I install the A/C system at a later time? -best way to refurb the HVAC parts(blower motor assy box and heater core, condenser units), should I degrease and wash out? -Foam recommendations for the blend door and such? -Is black duct tape to seal little cracks in the vent tubing? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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- 2.6k views
Looking to grab a part from Pickn.pull there and would pay someone for their time.
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 6 replies
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I have a Pertronix Flamethrower coil installed in my car (3.0 ohms) which is connected through the ballast coil. However, i have read in this fórum that if you have a 3.0 0hms you should not use the ballast resistor. Is this correct? the car cranks up fine but idles rough in traffic jams. If i leave it idling at the parking for more than 10 mins, rpm starts to drop from 1,000 to 800 to 600 RPM. Same happens in traffic jams. Could the coil be damaged? or is it wired wrongly? I have attached a photo and hope someone with electrical knowledge can give me his input! Could the ballast resistor be damaged? I need to decide what to do? Anyone????? Please see picture of …
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 2 followers
- 33 replies
- 9k views
Hello Everyone, PLEASE HELP!!! I was hoping to get some help over a problem I am having, I just recently bought a 1974 Nissan Datsun 260 Z but unfortunately it was not in running condition, I was told it was only a fuel problem so I connected a hose to the mechanical fuel pump that ran to a gallon of gas so that it could get direct access to gas. Unfortunately that was not it as the engine would not turn on but would just sound like it wanted to then I changed the spark plugs as the ones it had were dirty and after I did this every time I turn the switch to start the car would just lose all electrical power, now the engine won't even try to start as everything just s…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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