Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,113 topics in this forum
-
- 24 replies
- 6.7k views
Was having some issues getting the 78 280z to start today, had the roommate squeeze the fusible link connected to the positive battery terminal together and it started, as soon as he removed pressure the car died. Had him squeeze real tight and got the plug all wrapped up in electrical tape to hold it. started the car and it died a few moments later, no fuel pressure. Checked the fuselink and i have a positive 12v current on the pins from the terminal, but i have no continuity from the other side - from ecu i believe? The ECU is new. Tested it on old and new ECU, same result. With the fusible link not carrying juice to where it needs to go, the only things working in…
Last reply by Ken Kyger, -
-
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
Title says it all. Been searching threads and I've seen vapor lock, heat seat issues, etc but none of the symptoms seem to match my issue. After flushing the fuel pipes, replacing fuel filter, testing fuel pump, cleaning tank, cleaning fuel rail, replacing injectors, new plugs, new plug wires, and replacing all old fuel hoses with nice new EFI hoses the 280z roared to life. Drove it around the block a few times and everything was working great. Decided to take it for a short trip (15 miles) and had to limp home before I even got out of town. Car ran really good then started sputtering under load. Idled OK but sounded a bit rough. After several attempts to nurse it h…
Last reply by ntownsen, -
- 9 replies
- 13.8k views
I need help with a 1977 280z. All the vacuum lines on the car where messed up and disconnected when I got it and I can't find a diagram anywhere. I guessed on a few. The car runs great for a minute then like garbage then great then garbage. It's really hard to start when she's cold and the rpm's are at 2000 until it warms up. It's not a CA car and has a 5 speed. Anyone know what the heck is going on
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
Hey guys, Courtney here. I haven't posted since my last update on getting my orange Pumpkin Z home. Everything was great, until seemingly overnight, the car started to give me problems again... Last time I messed with it and fixed it, I had adjusted the timing to further advance it, and that seemed to fix the issue. After a fresh rebuild on the dual Webers, I thought for sure that I would have a good chance at getting the setup to work. Now I'm finding that it's not that simple. I took the car out around town the other day, and it started bogging. I now can't drive it over 2k rpms, because it bogs that badly, and honestly, it's a little scary. It even backfired from the …
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 7 replies
- 2.6k views
Hoping to get some help on a problem that's got my brake bleeding buddy and me stumped. Bleeding the brakes is the last step in my suspension rebuild. The calipers have been rebuilt, the wheel cylinders have just been cleaned, and the rubber hoses were replaced with steel hoses. All pads and shoes are new but that shouldn't matter here. We started with the right rear drum and weren't getting any fluid during normal bleeding so we moved up to the bleeders at the master cylinder and got no fluid there either. The reservoirs and filters had a lot of crud built up so, thinking there was a blockage, we removed and cleaned them, as well as the bores on top of the master cylinde…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 14 replies
- 3.2k views
"I've searched the world over and thought I found true love ... and pfth is was gone" (you get that if you ever watched HeeHaw). I've searched around quite a bit and I can't find a fuel injection/fuel pump combo relay. Every time I think I've found a solution, it is no longer available or its a broken link. I finally found one on ebay but they are asking $145 and that seems a little steep for a simple relay. I read some posts of people who have rewired to use more readily available parts but the descriptions were beyond my expertise. Logically since the connectors are separate, I thought I'd be able to just pick up separate relay's instead of a combo, but I haven't …
Last reply by Paxhead, -
- 1 reply
- 978 views
Alright my Voltmeter has never worked and while my gas gauge did work, it was prone to wild mood swings, which weren't affected by a new sending unit. While going through a parts hoard in sioux falls I bought a 280z voltmeter for five bucks. I tested it that day and it worked perfect. So I just got around to wiring it up tonight. After some research found out went out hooked up the the wiring with just test leads the way I read worked, and the volt meter worked, as did the gas gauge and the gauge light. So wired it all up that way, and tested it again still works perfect. Unhooked the gauge so I could tape up any thing that needed check everything over once more hooked it…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
I haven't been on any Z forums lately, because for the most part google has not failed me much lately. a couple weeks ago I noticed a metallic noise when going into gear, my brother thought it was a u joint, and did sound about right so I googled it and searched a few forums and kept seeing stuff about the 280 u joints not being intended to be replaced and needing to press them out, use some other method to remove them. Then found threads where talked about replacing their 240z u joints like it was just a normal u joint job and found a write up on biopatient where he just pulled the c clips and drove it apart, then installed the new ones. this would lead me to beleive tha…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
so when the car is running and i unplug num.1 spark plug wire . Thecar actually runs a little smoother because the num. 5 spark plug starts firing. The same thing happens when all are connected and i unplug num 5.The car starts running smoother because the num. 1 spark plug starts firing.. so basically when all wires are connected 1 and 5 arent getting spark UNLESS you pull one or the other.. all other spark plugs are firing normally. Please help i am moving duty stations in 2 days i need to figure this thing out..
Last reply by mattszcar, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello all! I am new to the forum and new to my 1972 240z passed down to me by my father the original owner. It has a F54 block from 81-83 280z and a N42 head (75-76 280z) from what i gathered. My problem is that it has major exhaust leak. I can tell some hoses need replaced because they have some cracks and when i spray carb ether stuff on the hoses it changes the idle. But was told by my father that i have to replace manifold because it too leaks. I want to put on a header and new exhaust and am looking at zstore for there 6-1 header with MSA exhaust or the 3-2 header with exhaust. Wondering which one will sound better? Any suggestions would be great. Not looking for qui…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
Hey guys, just swapped the clutch on my '70 240 and I'm having issues getting into gear. Let me start by telling you what I've done: Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder are both literally brand new. Less then 4000 miles on both, and no leakage. I swapped the blown out clutch disk with a spare 225mm clutch disk from my Datto truck. Bother were identical. The PP was quite different so I opted not to change that since I'll be pulling the L24 for an L28 in the future and I'll be using a different clutch. I've got my master cylinder and slave cylinder adjustments maxed out. I 'appear' to have full clutch arm movement, but it seems I may have a dead spot in the pedal. I've ble…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 1 follower
- 36 replies
- 16.6k views
I'm doing a ground-up resto on a '71 240Z, but having a problem with the steering rack. I've removed the outer tie rods and the boots. I did have some difficulty removing the inner tie rods because the lock (jam) nut is quite thin and is crammed between the tie rod one one side and an unidentified object on the inside. This object does not appear in illustrations in either the factory manual or Haynes. Instructions in both books make no mention. Overall shape and size (there's one at each end of the rack) is much like a bearing. It is round, without wrench flats. Push on it hard by hand, and it feels like there might be a spring inside. Immediately adjacent to it …
Last reply by zKars,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
