Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I am having problems with fuel pump pressure on my 240z. Can someone point out which is the best electric fuel pump for this stock carburetors? I was using a Carter P60504 and it only puts out 3 PSI. What will be the máximum PSI that both of these carbs will tolerate without overflooding the float valves. How much per carburetor?
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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So, first of all, i've been gone from the car circles for a long time for certain reasons. Have forgot most what i learned about carbs and timing. Problem: last summer, i broke my distributor. Yes, it went broken. The collar that holds dizzy on place (with 2 10mm screws) was bent and eventually dizzy started to wiggle, so forth destroying all screw threads that were holding it to place. SO. I replaced it with similar kind of oem 240z distributor (no-points, custom made) and i just CANT make it run nicely. I have 3 SK/OER dual sidedrafts that were tuned last summer. Havent touched them since. I dont remember the basics of timing, but i have timing gun with igniton adva…
Last reply by Reverend, -
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Just tuned both of my recently remanufactured by Ztherapy SU Carbs to 3 turns clockwise on my 1972 240z. I am getting this color of burn on the 6 spark plug wires (NGK BP6ES at .32mm gap). The car seems pulling okay. However if i get stucked in traffic, the plugs start to get black and the car rpms start to drop a Little bit more. I already made the following mods to the car and still cannot get a completely steady idle: - Change pertronix coil and ignitor (3.0 ohms) - Bypassed the ballast resistor - Swapped the Far 311 Race cam to a 274F Schneider cam -Changed rocker arms -Retainer springs -Lashpads Am i still too rich and need to go down to 2…
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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i'm missing one of the choke cable clips for my 3-screw su's. this is the little question-mark shaped clamp that mounts to a plate attached to the carb body and clamps down on the end of the choke cable housing to hold it in place. anyone have this little piece to sell? i believe they are "handed" (front vs. back) so i'll check which carb it is and post a pic when i get home... thanks in advance!
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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gonna swap out the efi in my '78 for some su's and i've been trying to figure out what i need to do for fuel line routing and venting. been through the fsm and can't find anything very detailed and there are so many pics of different ways to do it i'm scratching my head at this point... the goal is to clean up my engine bay as much as possible, keep things simple and avoid heat on the fuel lines to reduce vapor lock, etc. so i figured i'd run new hard lines up the firewall and over the tunnel and re-locate the fuel filter by the brake booster and then send a line out to the carbs. this should keep the fuel cool and reduce the clutter going 'round the front of the valve …
Last reply by HaZmatt, -
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I am going to try and teach myself triple DCOE tuning over the next year or so. If I can learn how to get the carbs tuned 90% I'll be happy. I'm paying $600 every time I take the car into the triples guru... so that has to stop! If one man can do it, another man can do it. Wondering if anyone can give me some insight on silver soldering jets? I have just purchased a set of jet drills, metric and imperial along with a small hand drill. Thanks, Chris
Last reply by rossiz, -
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I finally took my freshly rebuilt engine on its first "longer" trip. I've done several 5-10 miles journeys, but this was a 50 miler. I started with a full tank of 91 octane fuel and went out on the expressway to meet up with some Chicago Z guys for our monthly club meeting. I kept it around 55-60 mph (even with the semi's passing me) and it drove very well. To my surprise though, upon my return home when I refueled to allow me to check my mileage, I got over 30 MPG! Is this possible? I'm running a rebuilt stock 1972 L24 with N58 needles (I know they're lean) and with a pertronix ignition. I did put a wide-ratio 5 speed, along with my stock 3.36 rear end, which I k…
Last reply by Reverend, -
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Triple SK/OER carbs and I'm about to pull the old style SK e-tubes with air corrector jet and main jet and install Weber style e-tubes and jets so I'm speaking the same language as everyone else. Triple 40s 36mm main venturi 40 (.4mm) pump jet 70 (.7mm) starter jet 55F8 Idle jet So one of the formulas for choosing MJ and ACJ puts me at 144 for MJ and 194 for ACJ Does that sound like a good place to start? Also, L28 engine, head work done, header, all carbs balanced, 900rpm idle, fuel level at 26mm Thanks, Chris
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I had 4 days that i did not used my car since last sunday. Car was cold! pull the choke to start it and left it on for 5 minutes. I have the idle set up at 900 RPM with headlights on. Once i backed off the choke cable, the car presented the following problems: 1. Shaking back and forth when accelerating in 1st gear. 2. Backfire / Popping in 1st and 2nd gear. Turn back home: the first 3 plugs from the front carb were okay. the last 3 ones were black. I am using NGK BP6ES spark plugs and Castrol 10w 30 engine oil as damper oil for both carbs. Am i missing something here? I did a vacuum test spraying carb cleaner to each an every hose near the carbs and at the brake bo…
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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I only drive my 240z every other weekend or so. After it sits for a week the fuel system is empty and takes the stock mechanical pump many rotations of the engine to fill everything up and start. I plan on installing a Carter electric pump at the tank along with an adjustable fuel press. regulator and gauge. My question is, should I keep the stock mechanical pump on the side of the engine or get a block off plate and keep the pump in a box? If I keep the mechanical pump do I need a fuel press. regulator?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have a 280z that I am going to put triple webers on. In the course of my restoration I had to completely redo the fuel lines. The plumbing had been a real pain and bending 5/16" stainless precisely isn't easy. I have bent the supply, return and vent lines, but I can see where I really need a return line anymore. I have an electric fuel pump and a pressure regulator. Can't I just go to the fuel rail after the regulator and be done with it? Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by Reverend, -
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euro style would be ideal - otherwise, one that i can grind down to get to the euro style appearance. anyone got one they'd like to part with?
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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