Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Since my car has downdraft Webers and since the owner of my local Z shop has retired, I am faced with trying to balance my carbs after I diddled with the linkage. I know there are flow meters and adapters available for the Webers, but it occurred to me that there might be a way to locally fabricate something. My son and I used to balance the four carbs on his Suzuki using manometers, but he had one carb per cylinder and no balance tube to deal with. I realized that pressure measurements were a poor substitute for what we really needed, an air mass sensor ahead of the carbs. Then it occurred to me that cheap air mass sensors should be available from the salvage yards. Sinc…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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i think i'm facing over-influx of information. hoping that someone has experienced exactly what i'm facing and may intersperse some clarity into what i've "learned" with the search and print sources. z-therapy video is on the way as well... anyway: 4 screw SU carbs... recent rebuild and "professional adjustment"... runs well cold and warm, and runs fairly efficiently. until. you get. stuck in traffic. after a few minutes of stop and go (warm), i get smallish backfiring under acceleration, which clears up on its own after a few minutes at steady speed. can't find exactly this issue related anywhere with a "cure". any and all insight appreciated. best ~ rob
Last reply by an_unusual_eye, -
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well- I've done what i could in finding out why the car won't idle without the choke. I've pulled each of the Mikuni 44phh carbs out from the L28 and cleaned all the jets, but it still won't idle for some reason. I have fuel pressure, but i suspect it may be a fuel related issue as the car had been sitting for around a year. I did treat the fuel and added some new fuel along with some octane boost. When the choke was engaged, i adjusted them so the car would idle just barely without shutting off. When I opened the throttle it sounded like it was chocking. So i figure it's time to take it in to a shop who know's what they are doing . I was hoping someone on here could po…
Last reply by 71ZZZZZ, -
- 3 replies
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Since I bought my z as a project all I've been doing is rust repair so I've never really driven the car. Every now and then I start it up with the choke fully open and it'll run for a while at around 1000rpm and then it'll die. And then wont really start with the choke on or off. I installed a crane electronic ignition kit along with new plugs and leads etc, and the timings between 5-10 tdc. At the moment the throttle idle screws on both carbs are backed out completely, if I screw them in a whole turn like I've read to the car won't start. The fuel mixture screws were screwed all the way up and then both taken back 2 turns. (the throttle linkage is disconnected) I thoug…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 8 replies
- 2.3k views
On my SUs, the float bowl pivots pretty easily relative to the carb body. One, more than the other. It seems strange to me that the affixment would be at just one point, so that it can in fact pivot. Is there a rationale for that? More to the point, am I right that the bowl gets attached via a stud culminating in the nut marked in photo shown here? If so, how tight is it kosher to torque down that nut? (If I can even get at it without undoing the choke linkage.) thanks, Steve
Last reply by Duffman, -
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Greetings. I'm new to the Z world. Just purchased my 1st, a 1972 240Z and it has SU carburetors. The car sat for a couple of years before I purchased it and the floats were stuck with valve open. In the attempt to remove the bowl cover, I buggered up the float. There is a flange off the side of the SU carb that hangs right over the bowl cover. Multiple attempts to turn the lid to get better clearance didn't help, and the tension of the float on the sides of the bowl during this process popped the float right off of its lever arm. A new float will be ordered. So, like, what's the trick? If I have to make multiple adjustments to get the float/fuel level set right, th…
Last reply by Darrel, -
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- 6.2k views
:stupid: I was looking at my bike the other day and a spark lighted my already burning head. What if I put 6 motorcycle carbs on a triple carb manifold? Why do motorcycles have one carb/cyl and not cars? They are very inexpensive around here and a lot of sizes are available ? Ever been done ? Fred
Last reply by riceburner, -
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My 240Z had dual downdraft webers when I bought it with a linkage that never quite worked right. The setup had a 5/16' shaft that ran from the stock rear linkage bearing, through the ears on the balance tube for the OEM linkage to a rod end mounted ahead of the forward carb linkage. Three arms connected to shaft connected the two carburetors and the throttle pedal linkage. This setup was subject rattling at the balance tube ears and transmitted vibration to the pedal. I was also concerned about potential for binding as the engine flexed in the motor mounts. After looking at the OEM setup, I thought about making bearings to support the shaft at the balance tube ears. I f…
Last reply by djwarner, -
When setting to idle speed, I can't get the rpms to go below 1550, else the engine will just die and chug smoke out the carbs when it dies(seems to reverse rotate a little when it does that). We've rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the floats going on 8 times now per the directions of the SU carb builder dude with the video, and it STILL does this. I'm at a loss. The car has a new distributor in it with the GM module conversion, and I've both based timed it and checked the 3k rpm mark too, everything there is in order, so not sure what it is. Set valve clearances when I changed the valve cover gasket. It's not putting out the exhaust and the vac readings are stable, so …
Last reply by mr mikey, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
I called Todd at Wolf Creek Racing last week looking for some Mikuni parts for a friend. The parts were the accelerator pump body. Todd proceeded to tell me that they were long gone and if you have a set with stuck valves you were out of luck for the most part:disappoin. Then today while sorting through my old parts box’s I ran across two new;) in the package Nissan part #17620-25520 “BODY�. Datsun (NISSAN) sold the parts through their competition department.
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
- 6 replies
- 1.7k views
Working on converting from my current weber DVG's to a set of 240 style SU carbs. Im missing parts of the throttle linkage assembly between the intake manifold and the firewall, basically from the hook shaped thing back. The weber conversion changes the main throttle shaft so i just don't have it. If you have the linkage parts let me know
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 5 replies
- 4k views
Figured my car was running crappy because it was tuned to lean (previously too rich). Some backfires, overrunning, etc. And the idle was always bad - that is it would idle for about 5 or 10 seconds and then it would miss - kind of a hiccup. Also I was getting some popping sometimes through the carbs, or a miss, at 4000 to 4700 rpm, And worst, it was kind of crapping out at 4700, not really making any more torque. It had N58 needles and worn slightly oval nozzles. Put in N27's. Just learning the SU's so it was a real surprise that putting some different needles and new nozzles would fix all that.
Last reply by Stanley,
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