Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Just got my Synchrometer/SK and took it out to see what the balance was like on my still shiny ZTherapy SU's, Well the lowest I can get the idle down to without stumbling/stalling is about 900rpm. At that idle the SK reading is up in the 18-19 kg/h scale, so no accuracy and almost impossible to see. Should I have bought the BK model with the air bypass? What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Has anyone out there bought one of these from Zeddsaver? I am putting a 2.8L in my 73, and priced a complete assy.(manifold, air cleaner, linkage,) from him at 1200. I would like to know if this seems reasonable, or someone who has bought from him to see if they are as good as he says. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
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Does anyone know where I can get these? Chuck
Last reply by esmit208, -
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Hey folks. I've always though myself to be pretty familiar with our carbs by now, but recently my car has been running pretty crummy and I think they may be at fault. I mess with them way more than I ought to trying to get it to run its best, but I can never get it. It seems like right now it idles rough at low RPMs, and my MPG seems to be really poor. (I think it is leaking from the float bowl from the poor condition of my gaskets. I have to run the engine with quite a few turns past the standard 2.5 to get it to run off a single carb as the tuning process demands. And although I've set my floats to the 23 mm mark, it seems to run out of gas as if there isn't nearly enou…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hi all anyone know the causes and solution for this problem ? see pictures. thanks at all.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I have been chasing a sticking throttle on my Webers for a while now. Every sense I got back from the rally actually. I have replaced my 5/16" rod ends with 3/8" rod ends and actuator rod. Very beefy, I am happy with these! I have gone with a new LoKar stainless cable that is smoothly run to the carbs. I was still getting sticking and the effort to push the pedal was HUGE and felt like it was moving through syrup. NOt good. It actually felt like I had a rubber band attached from the pedal to the carbs instead of a wire cable. Humm why could this be? Carb number one was the most likely culprit. When I removed the actuation ball rod ends and just blipped the thrott…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Just found this great graph. It plots A/F at down pipe of a Subaru as well as the simultaneous tail pipe A/F. It seems to show: Tail pipe A/F accurately represents manifold A/F Tail pipe follows manifold by pipe-propagation-delay time. Manifold more accurately captures fast transients. These transients are reduced in amplitude at the tail pipe. So for carb a/f monitoring, use the manifold for accelerator pump transient tuning. The tail pipe is fine for all other carb tuning.
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I have a 1971 240z, I think the fuel mixture is leaning out. During checking for vacuum leaks, I sprayed carb cleaner between the intake manifold and the head and the RPM shot up. I assumed the gasket was leaky and naturally replaced it, but even with a brand new one it's still doing the same thing. Mixture nuts are turned all the way up and float levels checked, fuel lines and filters double checked, all is well. It's truly a mystery. The leaner I set it, the easier it starts up, but it also backfires much more and consequently dies right after. The richer I set it the less it backfires, but the idle feels far more rough and much lower. Raising the rear suction piston do…
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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Took the car to the shop to get it safety inspected. Inspection came back almost clean just a brake booster problem that they fixed, and some small electrical tweaks and an alternator belt change that I elected to take home and do myself to save shop labour. Halfway home the car all of a sudden felt like it lost power and died. I restarted it, it ran for 3 seconds and then died. After that it wouldnt start. Through the choke on and got 1 last second of engine running before sputtering and dieing. I noticed I wasnt hearing a familiar noise. Normally with the key in the on position I hear the fuel pump running. This time, nothing. At first I missed it cause of the traffic…
Last reply by Wingsuit, -
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observation: 2 to 3 turns on idle enrichment changes idle A/F 7 points 2 to 3 turns on idle enrichment changes cruise (3000rpm) A/F 3 points A/F at cruise and idle is balanced ~ 2.5 turns but rich at ~ 12.5 A/F is richer at idle than at cruise at greater than 2.5 turns out. My goal is get idle and cruise balanced ~ 14 to 15 A/F....waiting on 45 idle jets as next step.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 7 replies
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I know there's lots of threads about this...and I think I've read them all. I installed my triples last year and decided to keep the stock mechanical fuel pump. It puts out quite adequate volume and pressure for the triples. I have a pressure gauge before the carbs and regulator on the tank return line which keeps the pressure at 3-4 psi. The car runs great even under heavy acceleration...no fuel starvation. My question: why does it take so much cranking to get fuel to the carbs for the engine to fire when cold and the car has sat for a while? The pump is supposed to have a check valve to prevent draining of fuel back into the tank.....correct? It seems I'm pumping…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Looking for 1 su car damper with a brass knob instead of the plastic. Anyone have one?????
Last reply by az240z,
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