Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
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Found this online needle profile comparison tool when working on a tr4a yesterdayMinty SU Needle Compare-o-rama
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I saw this on eBay: Nissan Hitatchi Su Float for Datsun 510 Roadster Z Car and Others | eBay
Last reply by mr mikey, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
So I'm out running errands this morning when the ZTherapy phone in my pocket starts ringing. It's a nice gentleman from the Campbell California NISSAN dealership saying he's cleaning out a whole bunch of clutter and among that clutter is at least one box of SU carb parts and would we like to have them. No charge he'd just box it up and send it. In the age of diminishing availability of this stuff, this was like a breath of fresh air. Any of you CA South Bayers, so disposed, poke your head into the parts department and give 'em a big atta boy. Any of you out there who feel you missed our deadline for the core return shoot me an email. We can use them. Just trying to kee…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 19 replies
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I just recently glass beaded my SU's plus sent all the hardware for zinc plating. I dont know can you call that a rebuild but anyhow. I tried to start the engine and first i did not notice anything until it made couple loud POP's. Then i went to see and saw it was squirting fuel everywhere. Mainly from that big bolt on float bowl. Does it have some sort of gasket or o-ring? cause i dont have any.. It leaks like crazy and i cannot start the engine. Also, what would be the best settings to start the car, as i have dismantled and rebuilt carbs. Jet up or down or something between? I have FSM and unisyn but first i need to get it running and warmed up... I really apprec…
Last reply by Reverend, -
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Gents, looking for some suggestions on how to fix my rather drastic problem. The float pivot pin split-arm broke off on my DCOE top cover a while back, and naively I thought I could fix it with JB weld. Well, after taking the cover off this afternoon to install a smaller size accelerator pump jet spill valve, I could see my "repair" was right on the verge of failure, and the gas proof formula JB weld peeled right off. Right now I'm on the hunt for a used DCOE top cover, but was wondering if there are any fixes you guys would suggest in the meantime? I'm trying to use red loctite to fuse the part together for now since its supposed to be gas-proof after curing, but I'll…
Last reply by TBone028, -
- 1 reply
- 887 views
Although its for MG's, this is a great SU Carb manual. http://www.mgexp.com/article/all/Tuning_SU_Carbs_Speedsport.pdf
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
- 27 replies
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I know if them, I know of the yahoo group that he inhabits, but I will be damned if I can find his online store.
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 27 replies
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I took my Mikuni 44's apart this weekend to gasket match the cannon intake. The car now backfires quite badly out of both the carbs and the tailpipe while idling, downshifting and cruising. The AFR's are 11-12 while backfiring and the car pulls hard at WOT where the AFR is in the 12's . The plugs seem normal, timing looks normal, float bowl levels look normal and compression is 170+/-5 across all cylinders. The engine is a Rebello L30. The carbs have 39mm chokes, 150 fuels, 180 airs and deleted balance tube on the intake. Any advice as to how I should diagnose the problem? Could this be caused by a vacuum leak?
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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Been dealing with the excitement (aka frustration) of carburation the past few days. It got hot here in the North Bay Area and I started noticing very rough idling to the point of dying at stops with my '72 240z (L24). I was also getting strange lag every 15 seconds or so, more at some rpms than others and some rough backfiring. I thought it might be a cylinder misfiring or bad plugs at first. Beyond being in contact with Bud from Redline Weber about the sad state of my current 32/36 linkage setup and making the included notes regarding mixture and idle settings. Then, this afternoon my car was running significantly smoother in all gears through the full rpm range abo…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 14 replies
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My nice running '72 with 115k would not start one morning. Fuel was not getting to the carbs (SU-type) and the there was no fuel in the filter. Replaced the fuel pump without effect. Checked the fuel line and it was clear and unplugged. The engine starts with "starter fluid" but is not drawing fuel from the tank. I tried priming the system by adding fuel above the filter. This fuel drained OK to the tank. Carbs are "dry." My service manuals do not have a next step. Any ideas to try next? Thank you, RB
Last reply by formula c's 240z, -
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Can I take a set of SU's off of a well running L24 and put the on an L28 with 10:1 compression and expect to get the engine running, even roughly? Thanks Chris
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Installing a new FP gauge. Anyone know if the Japanese Mechanical fuel pump has BSPT threads? Pulled the outlet off an old Nikki pump - a 1/8" NPT seems to fit ok but it's a bad place for a leak. My next pump might be a Carter. Can get BSPT if it needs it. Also, my hose to the gauge has steel crimped fittings with yellow plating. I read bad things about steel/brass corrosion (the new tee is brass). Need to put a 90 deg. elbow between the tee and the hose fitting. Would aluminum be better than brass (to separate the brass from the steel)? The hose is 3000 psi nitrile with polyester braid, steel braid, and polyester braid cover. Overkill I know, but I hope the tech …
Last reply by Stanley,
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