Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I just received a 3 Barb fuel rail for L6 from Japan. I like it, thank you [mailto:yuiko@tatsumi-company.com]. I’m looking for sources for straight Banjo’s and nice fuel lines for the new fuel supply setup. I’m running 3 side draft Webers, 40 DCOE 18’s. All help will be appreciated.
Last reply by philbar73, -
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hi guys ive got a chance to pick up a set of of triple solex carbs with out linkages or manifold for 100 dollars [aus] is this a good price .also how hard would the rebuild kits be to get and are they expensive .thanks
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I just received my ZTherapy 3-screw rebuild kit from Bruce and I noticed that it now includes float-bowl pins rather than the ballbearing gross-jets discussed in the videos. Is this correct or should I look into it further? Has anyone else recently purchased a rebuild kit?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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Local (finnish) importer has introduced this new chinese made Weber clone, it supposed to be as good as the original and all the jets etc can be swapped from Weber. At first they made carbs mainly for volkswagen but they have started to make sidedrafts also. Anyone got any experience with these?
Last reply by Reverend, -
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howdy ya'll! what's up Bruce! these plugs came out of my 240 today...I put nice NGK pre gapped plugs back in. Now to tune the Zthereapied carbs back to normal. My brake booster went out and I had it rebuilt...but not before I had to drive it around with vacuum problems....trying to get it to run decently was an effort.... it wouldn't idle or run smoothly below 2000 rpm....
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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This seems rather off the wall to me but the two dampers on the SUs on my car are rather different in their resistance as I stick my finger in each carb and pull up on the piston. I had emptied the old oil from both carbs with my finger over the end of a drinking straw and then I put 30 wt in both dampers on the carbs (couldn't find 20 wt here). I was setting up the mixtures in the carbs VIA a 2003 beandip post and while getting good results (accidentally laid some rubber for the first time with this car today) I noticed that the one piston was much easier to pull up than the other. I swapped the dampers between the two carbs and the problem followed the dampers indic…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I picked up a performance L28 recently and these SK tripples came with it, wondering if anyone can tell me about them, there is not much about them in the archives. I removed the cover for the jets and there are four jets just like webers, the two at the back on the emulsion tubes are 120, the two at the front are 60F8. The other two carbs are the same. Thanks,
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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Am in need of the pivot piece on the original firewall throttle linkage that attaches to the 2 rods (one for gas pedal, the other to the carb linkage) for a 70 Z. I tried to modify mine and it didn't work out :tapemouth. Will try to fix mine but am hoping someone might have the part I need as a backup. Anyone? Thanks for looking!! Throttle Linkage.pdf
Last reply by Duffman, -
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hey guys. so i'm starting to get the ball going and start working on my 5/74 260z before actual rain starts. got some bumps. the whole fuel system is off and is gonna go back on after the front suspension is on and the tank gets cleaned. everything looks stock. it doesn't seem to make sense to me to use the same hoses after carb work. the hoses still look good but 40 years seems like a long time running. and a new mech fuel pump wouldn't hurt. so it got me thinking about a clean fuel system, or as clean as i can. so two things on the front. how do i clean the hard lines? the wrapped ones and the rails along the side that go to the rear. just straight flushing? the other i…
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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You heard it, Keith Franck is ready to fabricate some Emulsion tubes for Mikuni carbs after getting a Mikuni to model from our friend Silverstreak. He has Silverstreak testing one set for sure but if you have A:F meter installed fess up and you could be part of this test. Here's a clue! These work amazingly on Webers! "Ready to fab some tubes but I've got one more hurdle to clear. The leadscrew on my lathe won't turn metric threads so I'll have to try using a M11x1 die for the male thread. I'm hoping to do it in a single pass without tearing up the brass threads. This is where it could go all wrong.:-( I'll need some volunteers to test these tubes. Preferably someone that…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I am currently using an .090 plate of aluminum attached to the underside of my carbs. I still seem to get the fuel 'pukeing' effect from the Webers on longer drives. I end up with fuel on the shield and down on the left frame rail. Someone mentioned to me that the plate needs to have insulation on it, i.e. header wrap or similar, to actually block the transfer of heat from the header. My question is, should the insulator be exposed or open; or would a sandwich of aluminum, insulation and aluminum be OK? Also, should there be some sort of insulating washer between the shield and the mtg. points on the carbs?
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I know this has been covered many times. I've done the search, watched the ZT video. Yes the front float is meant to sit lower. Thread #38660, response by Bcalvosa, 5/23/2010 seems to explain why the best (although I read a conflicting theory based on the gas sloping during acceleration), that is because the engine is tilted and different float levels equal same levels at the nozzle (relative to that carb). Bcalvosa states the gas level to be 25 mm front, 21 mm rear, measured down from the tip of the bowl including the gasket. Most other sources say 25mm front, 23 mm rear. Which is right? I've got to install some new float valves & nozzles, then a local race mechani…
Last reply by Stanley,
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