Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Well today in order to get my carbs even better (this is where the issues come in as they were running fine, and I cannot seem to leave well enough alone). I opened up the screw covering the progression holes. Now all manner of weber tuning manuals state that you need to have the butteflies covering the first progression hole. And when you first tip into the throttle you start to uncover it. Well I noticed that mine were not this way. Instead they were almost a full turn more closed that than. Meaning I could move the butterflies a few mm before I would even start to uncover the first holes. Well I figured this had to be wrong (even though I had a reliable running, …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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<<< USE 29mm rather than 25mm >>>> 25mm causes a huge rich spot when cruising at highway speeds!!!!! Use a flashlight when probing.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hi guys, I got a set of webers of a parts car, and these need quite a bit of attention. I bought 3 rebuild kits from Pierce Manifolds. I looked through the kit to figure out where each component goes, but these two washer type gaskets got me a little confused. I took a picture and attached it. The only place I could think of was at the ends of the butterfly shaft to create a seal, but that's just a guess. Input is appreciated.
Last reply by conedodger, -
I have a 1972 with SU carbs. I've always used "3 In 1" Motor Oil which is a straight SAE 20 oil. I can't go much more than 350 -- 400 miles without having to refill the reservoir. Is this normal? Chris
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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As follow up to our discussion on the thread I fail to find, I have a report back concerning how those piston tubes are constructed that would preclude leakage out the bottom of the tube. 4 screw tubes are one solid piece drilled from both ends leaving a solid floor at the bottom of the tube 3 screw are a little more involved. The tube is drilled full length. An insert is then pressed into the bottom of the tube. This insert has a hole drilled thru it to accept the needle. A what looks like a ball bearing is pressed into that hole and it nestles itself into the metal. We think then the insert may pressed into the tube as the fit is tighter than a well, you know. Bottom li…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I was thinking that we here at Classic Z cars are a unique bunch that are willing to share knowledge at the slight hint of a question. What I would like to propose is an online collaborative parts sharing for Weber DCOE? Anybody who has triple webers on their cars, has a bunch of spare parts, jets, linkages, rod ends, emulsion tubes, etc. We are all trying to improve the tune of our cars, and for the vast majority of us, we settle on good enough, rather than perfect because the price of jets and air correctors are prohibitively expensive to buy in bulk. 6 of anything is about 40 bucks. however, a padded envelope is not that expensive and a stamp is within all our me…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I'm running a set of 44mm Mikuni's on my Rebello L30 in my 240Z track car. The car runs great at WOT and never stumbles regardless of throttle transition. I'm 95% happy with my current setup but the engineer in me wants to get that last 5%. The problem I am having is that the car runs very rich on 3000rpm, 3rd gear corner exits. It does not stumble but it feels like its drowning in fuel. AFR's are as follows... 4th gear cruise = 13.0 idle = 12.0 WOT 4th gear at 6500rpm = 12.8 3rd gear roll on from 3000rpm = 10ish The carbs are currently jetted as follows... 37mm venturi 160 fuel 200 air 40 pump 50 pilot When I roll the throttle on in 3rd it stays rich for quite some …
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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Can't find detailed data on the net. (Comes up as "Repair Kit (B)" with "improved needles"). They came in an eBay "NOS 240z carb kit for 70-72 240z" They are ~5mm shorter than stock 240z needles Kit Supplier NJC Autoparts Labels on box: "Datsun x6010-E4926" "39-5063"
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I currently run a great set of 151's on my 2.8 powered 240Z. They run great, except for a bit of a "gasp" if I slam open the throttle below 2500rpms. Normal throttle, and spirited throttle application work fine. I just acquired a set of 18's that I planned to clean up and sell. In your opinion, should I swap to the 18's to see if they run even better? I know the 18's are supposed to be better for the L motors, mainly due to the progression design. Opinions? Sell the 151's or the 18's? Both sets are 40DCOE and I can choose 30 or 32mm chokes.
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 5 replies
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I'm shaving off all of the pollution control stalks, plugs and the rest of it that covers the balance tube to give it a cleaner look. I would like to relocate the brake booster vaccum hose into the end of the balance tube closest to the firewall (at the moment it's connected to the top of the balance tube) Just wondering if changing the location of that vaccum port could affect the brake booster function in anyway? Thanks. Chris
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I'm having some trouble setting the correct position of the needles. I have always used the methed of placing the needle on the piston and tightening the set screw just enough to cause some drag on the needle but allowing it to move freely, I then place the piston onto the carb and let the needle position itself. My problem now is that when I place the piston onto the carb I slowly lower it down and I can feel the needle bottom out, I then slowly pull the piston back out and the shoulder of the needle is sitting above the surface of the piston. I have read another method is to use a straight edge along the bottom of the pistion and use that as reference for the needle he…
Last reply by madkaw, -
Hi, I'm a new Z owner. The car came with a Bob sharp and Holley 8007 390 cfm 4 barrel conversion. The carb secondary vacuum barrels were seized probably since he garage it 12 years ago. I tried a rebuilt kit but still had problems and I didn't trust it as a daily driver. So being new to carbs I asked around and was advice to just replace them. I purchase a new Holley 600 cfm 4 barrel carb thinking that more cfm is better. Now the car turns on with minimum effort and idles ok. Once the motor warms up I open the choke and it starts to idle high and goes up and down in idle from 800 to 1200 and seems as though its running rich. Ive revived all the way just to see where recli…
Last reply by LeonV,
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