Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I replaced my water pump last weekend (PITA btw), and after I had finished I noticed that the various engine and suspension components on the passenger side of the engine compartment had a speckled look. At first I thought it was because of the large amount of rain we get up here, which of course prevents me from keeping the bay clean and dry. But the other side looked much better by comparison. But I had just gotten done bending over my fender for roughly two hours and needed to let the silicone dry, and it was getting dark so I figured I'd try to figure it out the next day. Well when I started her up the next morning to make sure all was well with the new pump, it becam…
Last reply by ms260z, -
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Hello all. I stretch my hand out across the pond to shake the hand of my fellow 240Z owners on distant shores. I seek advice. Car: 240Z 1973 Standard engine. Rebuilt from the bottom up and no issues with compression etc. 6 branch header and using a 2 inch exhaust with no centre box just a rear box. State of tune. New Pertronix ignitor using a 3 ohm flamethrower coil and no balast resistor : New plugs, rotor arm, leads and dizzy cap. timing set at 10 degrees BFTDC. done using strobe light. Carbs: a brand spanking new set of Z therapy 3 screw hitatchi carbs these ae running SM needles. i have watched the Z Therapy video several time and done all the adjustments etc. T…
Last reply by That-hurt, -
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Getting ready to start the car in the next week or so. I want to give the engine its best shot to fire up on the first dozen or so cranks. That said, what's the best way to prime the fuel system with my (new) mechanical pump? Can I remove the valve cover and actuate the pump lever by hand until fuel makes its way to the carbs? Or is there a better/easier way?
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
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I am trying to install a set of 40mm DCOE webers I got from MSA for my 240Z. The purpose is to get the fuel system up and running before my new L28 gets here. I have to say the carbs are beautiful. They came set up as follows: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture jet (I may have to double check this one, it was hard to read at night) Naturally it came with a Cannon manifold as standard fare. Here is where I noticed my first initial quality lapse. The cannon manifold had very noticeable casting/machining edges that protruded into the bore of each runner that I had to knock down with a file then sandpaper. I…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have weber 40dcoes on a stock l28. the jets in the carbs are, idle jet-50f9 main jet-130 air corrector jet-170 emulsion tube-f15 pumpjet-45 needle valve-175 startjet-100f5 chokes-40's fuel pressure is at 3.2ish psi I have a carter fuel pump which is about 80gph ( should be enough for these carbs) and a msd coil. and i have a aem Wideband afr gauge, now my problem is, at idle my AFR ( Air fuel ratio) is normal (13-14) and when i give it gas it runs LEAN and sputters and dies. if i adjust the AFR at idle and make it rich ( 10-12) and give it gas it runs decent (12-13) but at idle its pig rich and washing my cylinder walls with fuel. and if i floor it from idle…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I have been doing a lot of searching on this and I hope I am just not being redundant here-but, I do have some questions. What I plan is running a RX-7 pump because I have read many good things about it. I am going to use my existing supply line and a regulator. The regulator is where I get a bit stuck! I guess I would have no problem running the return line, but not sure of what type regulator to use for that and where to put it in the plumbing? Most regulators I have seen have an inlet and outlet with the return. So do you run that type in a loop set-up before the carbs and attach the return? If you use a return style after the carb, what do you do with the outlet side…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Im fighting my back carb still, thought I had it fixed but I am still having the choke/nozzle getting stuck and not releasing back up. I have to manually reach down and push it up once warmed up. Due to this I believe I keep fouling out my plugs and keep getting gas into my oil. I start to get the gas odor and my valve cover breather starts smoking. I can smell the gas in the oil. I had this happen a while back and my oil was over a quart too high, so I drained it and put fresh oil in and cleaned up the plugs, then it happened again, did the same. Was fine for a few weeks and now I am having same issue. My question is, will the gas that is mixed into the oil work i…
Last reply by Wade, -
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I went to look at a '72 240Z for sale yesterday. Body & interior are in rough shape. The engine is not stock, apparently came out of a '73. Instead of the flat top carbs, it has a 4bbl intake with a Holley carb. The 4bbl intake has "Bob Sharp Racing" embossed in raised letters. Does anyone know the value of an intake like this? The car originally came with an automatic transmission, but currently has a 5 speed. I drove the car, and it is fast! But, the rear end is making a lot of noise, supposedly the differential was recently replaced. The suspension and brakes on the car would need to be rebuilt. The fenders, rocker panels, rear wheel arches & dog legs …
Last reply by phearless, -
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the unisyn i have did not have the tiny holes fully drilled in. i drilled all the way and it now works. i just finished balancing the carbs. my only problem now is that when i pull on the choke cable, the motor wants to die or it just stalls. i've been having this problem before carb balancing too. it does the same thing even if it's cold outside. this is for an SU round top. i'll get pictures up asap. i have searched online alot and i can't seem to find anything. any answer would help alot. thank you!
Last reply by s30z_lou, -
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Im looking to buy a set of triple weber 45 with lynx manifold, it is already tuned to the following specs and I was wondering if you guy can give me some quick advice before I take the plunge. My engine is an L28 stock. Thanks Choke = 36 venturi = 4.5 Main Jet = 145 Air corrector = 180 Emulsion Tube = F15 Idle jet = 60 F6 Pump jet = 35
Last reply by lubu, -
- 23 replies
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I recently moved from Sacramento (sea level) to Reno 4500' above sea level. My triple Weber carbs are pretty much perfectly tuned and synched for sea level. Anyone have an idea what jetting I should go to for 4500' above?
Last reply by conedodger, -
- 4 replies
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Don't know if that's a good title for this, but anyway... An old mechanic suggested I try setting my Mikunis via header tube heat differences. I was having a lean condition with spitting back through the carbs at most any rpm level and at any engine temperature. All the plugs displayed a nice, uniform tan color and I was a bit stumped. Using a touch pyrometer, I discovered vast differences in header tube temps: 385 degrees at the coolest to over 700 at the hottest. Voila! The picturesque "light bulb" cartoonishly drawn over someone's head just lit up. After adjusting the pilots to the same setting as the coolest hole, the problem went away. The subsequent test drive fully…
Last reply by 240260280z,
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